Hopkins
Commercial User
Toilet wax rings are sticky and nasty. A chunk of paraffin fits in your tool box a lot better as well.
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Installing tuners (the blasted little screws!!)
- Thread starter gregmon79
- Start date
Toilet wax rings are sticky and nasty. A chunk of paraffin fits in your tool box a lot better as well.
Since it hasn't been mentioned I will add the trick where you seat the screw on the screwdriver and then use the tip of your index finger to hold them together while you get the screw started in the hole. That way you can start the screw one-handed and far less likely to drop one of the darn things.
Maybe everybody knows this trick but it was new to me once so maybe it will be new to somebody else.
Maybe everybody knows this trick but it was new to me once so maybe it will be new to somebody else.
Sticky yes, nasty no, you have to buy a new one from the store, not the one that leaked under the commode
Hopkins
Commercial User
Sticky yes, nasty no, you have to buy a new one from the store, not the one that leaked under the commode
HAHA I wasn't thinking you were talking about a used one. That cracked me up
Being sticky is what makes them nasty
On a slightly related note, does anyone know how to dig a broken screw out of the back of a headstock? I'm asking.... for.... a friend....
A friend.... hummm.
The first suggestion is to take it to a professional repairman for him to deal with it.
If the friend decides to do it himself:
Tell your friend that he needs a press drill, first. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRILL BY HAND!
If the neck is a bolt on, take off the body and any other tuners it might have installed. If it's a neck through or set neck, remove only the remaining tuners.
The trick is to clamp the neck on the drill baseplate, so that it can't slip while drilling. This is of utmost importance.
Insert the drill bit inside the chuck so that the amount sticking out is enough only to drill the depth plus half an inch for you to see what you're working on. This way, the bit will flex much less, because it's too thin, thus reducing the risk of slippage and opening a new hole right beside the broken screw. You don't want that happening! Neither your friend!
I recommend to use a brand new drill bit, they cut better.
The first time will be with the same drill bit you (oops, your friend) drilled the holes for the screws.
Center the broken screw perfectly to the drill bit, clamp it down and proceed to the next step.
Set the drill press to a low RPM speed (good for metal), if it's slipping too much and you can't drill out the broken screw, you will need to use a larger diameter bit, preferrably a router bit with a flat head, used to route metal.
If you use the larger bit, after you or he removed the screw, the hole will need to be filled with a wood dowel and glue, level after dried and then drill a new hole.
Good luck!
The first suggestion is to take it to a professional repairman for him to deal with it.
If the friend decides to do it himself:
Tell your friend that he needs a press drill, first. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRILL BY HAND!
If the neck is a bolt on, take off the body and any other tuners it might have installed. If it's a neck through or set neck, remove only the remaining tuners.
The trick is to clamp the neck on the drill baseplate, so that it can't slip while drilling. This is of utmost importance.
Insert the drill bit inside the chuck so that the amount sticking out is enough only to drill the depth plus half an inch for you to see what you're working on. This way, the bit will flex much less, because it's too thin, thus reducing the risk of slippage and opening a new hole right beside the broken screw. You don't want that happening! Neither your friend!
I recommend to use a brand new drill bit, they cut better.
The first time will be with the same drill bit you (oops, your friend) drilled the holes for the screws.
Center the broken screw perfectly to the drill bit, clamp it down and proceed to the next step.
Set the drill press to a low RPM speed (good for metal), if it's slipping too much and you can't drill out the broken screw, you will need to use a larger diameter bit, preferrably a router bit with a flat head, used to route metal.
If you use the larger bit, after you or he removed the screw, the hole will need to be filled with a wood dowel and glue, level after dried and then drill a new hole.
Good luck!
Here's a related thread from a fellow Tber who was able to pull this off with a Dremel and micro bit. Never had to do this myself but I just may shear off some anchor screws and give it a go...think I'll use the flex cable and handset, though.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/fixed-broken-tuner-screw-1060235/
Riis
