• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Installing tuners (the blasted little screws!!)

gregmon79

gregmon79

Dec 20, 2012
27,397
19,561
46
Chicago IL
#1
What is the best way to install tuners onto a brand new neck with no holes? I'm trying to tap the screws in a bit to get a starter hole and then screwing them in. I've tried manually and with a drill. Either way, this is a very tedious and difficult process. I'm stripping the heads. What is the best way to get these screws in without stripping them? I'm using two different screw head sizes too, first a sharp one, I figured that was the way to go. But I soon realized that's why I was stripping them. So I stopped and went to a size up. Worked better but I can't get the leverage I need get the screws going. There's got to be an easier way!!!! Please help me.
 
#2
Don't do that! You're going to either strip the heads or break it, and will be a pain to remove.

You have to drill a hole first, then screw it in to thread it.

For regular tuners like Hipshot and Gotoh, NOT Fender style, usually it's a 1/16" (1,5mm) drill. For Fender style tuners, it's a bit larger, but I'm not sure (around 3/32" or 2mm).

You have to measure the screw diameter with calipers to be sure.
 
#3
Thank you!! That's all I needed to know. I feel kind of silly for asking. But then again, after the first one went in, totally stripped (I'll have to replace that one) and a second one going in the exact same way as the first, I stopped. I figured I may as well sound stupid than DO something stupid. Thanks again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Speterc
#4
Like Igor said, you need to drill a pilot hole for the screw slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw. Then you want to lubricate the screw, there are a few ways to do this. Personally I use a little paste wax, but you can also scrape the tip of the screw across a piece of bar soap or a candle. They will go in very easily if you follow these steps.
 
#5
Good to know you stopped before something went too bad.

Hopkins gave a good tip on the wax.

I've been using stainless steel screws for tuners for the past years. Much better and don't strip or break. I just throw away the screws that come with the tuners, they are very cheaply made and soft.
 
#7
Igor Porto said:
Good to know you stopped before something went too bad.

Hopkins gave a good tip on the wax.

I've been using stainless steel screws for tuners for the past years. Much better and don't strip or break. I just throw away the screws that come with the tuners, they are very cheaply made and soft.
Click to expand...

Where are you buying your screws? If you don't mind sharing...
 
#10
Hopkins, compared to stainless steel, they are soft. And stainless steel isn't even a hard steel, compared to the steel used on quality wrenches and drivers, like 8650.

I can guarantee that the stainless ones can handle more torque and are difficult to strip. So the conclusion is that the others are indeed, soft.

I've seen stripped heads on those screws my whole life as a luthier (past 17 years). People will either use wrong size drivers or try what the OP did. :D

TDOGG, I buy them in Brazil (I live here) from a luthier supply company. They're OEM, so I don't know what brand.

Stew Mac used to carry them, but they're discontinued.

If you Google, you can find them, not necessarily in guitar parts suppliers:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#92470a097/=rb0hft

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

http://www.greenboatstuff.com/ststtytascpa.html

http://gatelatchusa.com/ss_pan_head_tapping_screws.html

In all cases, the wise thing to do, is to use a tap with the correct thread to open the threads in the wood first, made with very hard tool steel, then drive the screws.
 
#11
The wrong screw driver will strip them every time. Using the correct tools, drilling pilot holes, and lubricating the screws, I have never had a problem with the screws included with the tuners.
 
#14
You may also want to put some tape on the drill bit to mark the depth you want to go. Helps you from drilling too deep or shallow!
eg:
CI-Curbly_midcentury-modern-wreath-drilling-holes_s4x3_lg.jpg
 
#15
Igor Porto said:
Hopkins, compared to stainless steel, they are soft. And stainless steel isn't even a hard steel, compared to the steel used on quality wrenches and drivers, like 8650.

I can guarantee that the stainless ones can handle more torque and are difficult to strip. So the conclusion is that the others are indeed, soft.

I've seen stripped heads on those screws my whole life as a luthier (past 17 years). People will either use wrong size drivers or try what the OP did. :D

TDOGG, I buy them in Brazil (I live here) from a luthier supply company. They're OEM, so I don't know what brand.

Stew Mac used to carry them, but they're discontinued.

If you Google, you can find them, not necessarily in guitar parts suppliers:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#92470a097/=rb0hft

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

http://www.greenboatstuff.com/ststtytascpa.html

http://gatelatchusa.com/ss_pan_head_tapping_screws.html

In all cases, the wise thing to do, is to use a tap with the correct thread to open the threads in the wood first, made with very hard tool steel, then drive the screws.
Click to expand...
Igor, this is appreciated, but you are arguing another side of the same coin. "softness" is relative of course. In addition, there are dozens of grades of stainless steel with a variety of specialized applications, not all stainless is created equal.

My point is that choosing a "stronger" metal for a screw is helpful, but the best thing a person can do to address the particular problem of breaking those tiny screws is to pre-drill the hole, and lubricate the threads of the screw. For most builders and DIYers, this will be the best solution.

Stainless will improve, but it's not necessary to take this step in order to achieve the goal...
 
#17
Toolmybass said:
You may also want to put some tape on the drill bit to mark the depth you want to go. Helps you from drilling too deep or shallow!

eg:

CI-Curbly_midcentury-modern-wreath-drilling-holes_s4x3_lg.jpg
Click to expand...


Yeah, my girl just suggested that. She's pretty good with that kind of stuff surprisingly. I got a few sized drill bits and I'm going to try the smallest one first. The next size up is a 1/16 so I think I'm good. The hardware store didn't carry screws that small. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
#19
Well, I got the tuners, neck, sting trees and strings on. I looks and plays great!!!! I don't even think I'm going to have to adjust the truss rod, I can't believe it. I'll have to wait and see how the neck settles after the strings have been on and tuned for a day or two, make sure it doesn't need adjusting after it all settles in.

So, I've tried the water thingy decal. It didn't work at all. There's either not enough finish on the bass for the glue to set, or I'm just that bad at these things. I followed the directions to the T though so I have no clue what I did wrong. What would you guys go with?? I mean for a fender decal to put on the headstock. One that will stay. For the remainder.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back