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Is is necessary???
- Thread starter ScottTunes
- Start date
I don't try to be mean spirited and my original post was - sorry. It was too early in the morning for me to digest what you were suggesting – my bad. We all have ideas of what will or can possibly make something better. Where I'm coming from is the perspective of a player who has played and flipped basses for 40+ years. What I've found is that eventually you'll be trying to trade that Ric or sell it. No matter what we think is the Holy Grail will eventually we will want to sell it. Any modifications from stock (no matter how well intended) will immediately loose you value - usually between 30% to 70% below the wholesale price. Yes, you can always Craigslist it out and find someone who thinks your mods are perfect but that's harder with higher priced instruments.
If you want to mod it - go ahead. My only suggestion is that you only do those things that can be easily reversed. Paint is another issue. Dings and scrapes add mojo. Take a look at older basses and the wear doesn't detract from the price.
Most importantly, what ever you do, play it and have fun.
If you want to mod it - go ahead. My only suggestion is that you only do those things that can be easily reversed. Paint is another issue. Dings and scrapes add mojo. Take a look at older basses and the wear doesn't detract from the price.
Most importantly, what ever you do, play it and have fun.
It's not my "first rodeo," so-to-speak. I have attempted this before... Just not with a Rickenbacker.
Here's my "specialty:"
And, I have built guitars/basses, as well as painted one or two... I'm definitely a little nervous facing this task (for which I will post photos soon...)...
No worries... I've not only done the same myself, I probably asked for this as well.
The v63 I'm working on was not abused, other than one of the previous owners routing the back for a pair of battery boxes to power the EMG p'ups. So, honestly, the value is nearly shot anyway, as these scars are a permanent feature. I'll fill the battery box route because I feel it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the neck-through... It was my choice to purchase (even over-pay) and repair this bass. I prefer the Ric "dot necks" over the more fancy triange fretboard inlay and body binding. And, I also prefer the dark midnight blue (the other, lighter blue metallic being AzureGlo).
Anyway, guess I'll just have to post pics for "proof"
Here's a Gibson Les Paul I painted many moons ago...
It's the only photo I have access to of guitars and basses I built and painted...
It's the only photo I have access to of guitars and basses I built and painted...
Agreed. I think it looks awesome. I don't see a lot of nekid rics.
If your dead set on paint though deff purple like you said and just the headstock and body.
Attachments
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=308242&stc=1&d=1356909174
The battery box route disrupts the continuity of the "neck-through-body" design. It is completely severed between the 2 p'ups (as seen in the close-up of the back). No matter how good the repair, the "scar" will inevitably show as the paint shrinks, etc...
I think it's still a worthy instrument (I've seem FAR worse!) to repair and play. It was a good player before now... Although the extra stress on the body wings, combined with dried glue, has cause a bit of separation of the upper bout from the neck (can't see it now, but can feel it).
I'm thinking I'll use a syringe to re-glue that small portion, and "stuff" a block of rock maple into the battery box hole, and let that dry for a while. Fill it like you would any hole, or imperfection in the wood, and paint it. The paint will "mask" the scar for quite a while if done well. But the neck will again go all the way to the end-pin, which is a good thing.
The battery box route disrupts the continuity of the "neck-through-body" design. It is completely severed between the 2 p'ups (as seen in the close-up of the back). No matter how good the repair, the "scar" will inevitably show as the paint shrinks, etc...
I think it's still a worthy instrument (I've seem FAR worse!) to repair and play. It was a good player before now... Although the extra stress on the body wings, combined with dried glue, has cause a bit of separation of the upper bout from the neck (can't see it now, but can feel it).
I'm thinking I'll use a syringe to re-glue that small portion, and "stuff" a block of rock maple into the battery box hole, and let that dry for a while. Fill it like you would any hole, or imperfection in the wood, and paint it. The paint will "mask" the scar for quite a while if done well. But the neck will again go all the way to the end-pin, which is a good thing.
Attachments
Being a big fan of Natural basses and quite the opposite of painted basses i would leave it as is...color wise
But different strokes for different folks..
But different strokes for different folks..
It's your bass and your work looks really nice and you know what you're getting yourself into.....however, I would like to cast another "I think it looks awesome as-is" vote. 
I agree on the Maple color, but that giant hole on the back just hasta go. Maybe fill it and live with the ugly, but whatevewr makes you happy is the right thing to do. At least the poor thing will get repaired and get the love it needs.
