Is my Spector nut too high?

[hammfisted]

Picked up a new Spector Euro LT in a store in Sydney five years ago and immediately had to buy it. It was the most beautiful bass to play I'd ever put hands on. A straight fast neck with very low action. Boom, I straight out stumped up the 4000 Aussie dollars (US $2700), first bass I'd bought in over a decade.

However, things didn't turn out quite as I hoped. After I brought it home, I noticed some things weren't quite right, including an intonation issue. (Intonation is the one I really remember, but potentially it might have also been fret buzz when playing low.) Anyway, I got it back and the immediate problems appeared resolved but it just... wasn't as good any more. The action was higher. There was more relief. It was still decent but it didn't feel like the beautiful fast machine that motivated me to dish out $4000.

I put it aside mentally and didn't play it much for a few months. Then there was the birth of my son; and I packed it under the couch for years - not only was my attention elsewhere but I was worried he might damage it during his infancy and toddler years. When I picked up a bass, it was my Fender or Yammy. Fast forward to 2024. I finally took it out and asked my local setup guy to have a look. He said the nut was too high, causing fret buzz on the lower frets. He also said there was some dodgy fret work in the higher register. He said I would need a new nut to fix it and asked me what I wanted to do.

I decided to contact Spector for a replacement nut, and noticed they had a concept called "Limited Lifetime Warranty". This apparently means they will replace certain parts if they aren't up to scratch under certain conditions at any time for the original owner. My understanding from communication with them is that the nut may be included under this warranty. Certainly it seems there is nothing I could have done to make the brass nut get higher; it must have been sold to me like that. I emailed Spector USA, and was responded to by Korg which owns Spector. Korg directed me to the local dealer, who in turn told me to take it to the store I bought it from. I understand that the dealer and store together decided that store would do a setup and see if I was satisfied with the outcome.

It was a good setup and it feels much more like the bass when I originally bought it. After all sitting under my couch for years wouldn't have been the best for it and the neck was a bit bowed. They disagreed the nut was too high and blamed the long period since the last setup for the performance issues I was noticing. They smoothed out the uneven fretwork. They said it was playing great now and told me to take it home and see what I thought.

But...... they didn't do anything about the nut. It now has a nice low action setup but buzzes a bit when playing moderately at the first fret, and on the open A string. By moderately, I mean more than gently, but not Entwhistle/Geddy Lee digging in. I can tolerate a little buzz when digging in, but an open string buzz seems... hard to tolerate.

I will take it to a luthier for a third opinion but thought I'd ask here. I know photos aren't great for this, but hey, that's what I have ready on hand. Note the daylight gap between the string and fretboard near the nut, compared to the extremely low action at the first fret, which the string is close to touching. Doesn't that indicate a nut being too high? If so, any recommendations?

I note someone else has worried about a similar issue with their Spector Euro.

Thanks for reading!

 

[FunkHead]

Picked up a new Spector Euro LT in a store in Sydney five years ago and immediately had to buy it. It was the most beautiful bass to play I'd ever put hands on. A straight fast neck with very low action. Boom, I straight out stumped up the 4000 Aussie dollars (US $2700), first bass I'd bought in over a decade.

However, things didn't turn out quite as I hoped. After I brought it home, I noticed some things weren't quite right, including an intonation issue. (Intonation is the one I really remember, but potentially it might have also been fret buzz when playing low.) Anyway, I got it back and the immediate problems appeared resolved but it just... wasn't as good any more. The action was higher. There was more relief. It was still decent but it didn't feel like the beautiful fast machine that motivated me to dish out $4000.

I put it aside mentally and didn't play it much for a few months. Then there was the birth of my son; and I packed it under the couch for years - not only was my attention elsewhere but I was worried he might damage it during his infancy and toddler years. When I picked up a bass, it was my Fender or Yammy. Fast forward to 2024. I finally took it out and asked my local setup guy to have a look. He said the nut was too high, causing fret buzz on the lower frets. He also said there was some dodgy fret work in the higher register. He said I would need a new nut to fix it and asked me what I wanted to do.

I decided to contact Spector for a replacement nut, and noticed they had a concept called "Limited Lifetime Warranty". This apparently means they will replace certain parts if they aren't up to scratch under certain conditions at any time for the original owner. My understanding from communication with them is that the nut may be included under this warranty. Certainly it seems there is nothing I could have done to make the brass nut get higher; it must have been sold to me like that. I emailed Spector USA, and was responded to by Korg which owns Spector. Korg directed me to the local dealer, who in turn told me to take it to the store I bought it from. I understand that the dealer and store together decided that store would do a setup and see if I was satisfied with the outcome.

It was a good setup and it feels much more like the bass when I originally bought it. After all sitting under my couch for years wouldn't have been the best for it and the neck was a bit bowed. They disagreed the nut was too high and blamed the long period since the last setup for the performance issues I was noticing. They smoothed out the uneven fretwork. They said it was playing great now and told me to take it home and see what I thought.

But...... they didn't do anything about the nut. It now has a nice low action setup but buzzes a bit when playing moderately at the first fret, and on the open A string. By moderately, I mean more than gently, but not Entwhistle/Geddy Lee digging in. I can tolerate a little buzz when digging in, but an open string buzz seems... hard to tolerate.

I will take it to a luthier for a third opinion but thought I'd ask here. I know photos aren't great for this, but hey, that's what I have ready on hand. Note the daylight gap between the string and fretboard near the nut, compared to the extremely low action at the first fret, which the string is close to touching. Doesn't that indicate a nut being too high? If so, any recommendations?

I note someone else has worried about a similar issue with their Spector Euro.

Thanks for reading!

You could simply put something in the nut slot to raise the strings up a tiny bit and see if it fixes it. Any thin material will work, Even a strip of copper shielding or 2 layers just to rule the nut in or out.


GL,
Funkhead

 

[hammfisted]

Thank you. I might misunderstand (I know nothing on this stuff) but wouldn't that make the nut even higher? My setup guy reckons the nut is too high. As I understand it, being too high means that when you put the action low on the bridge it results in a bad angle that leads to fret buzz on low frets.

 

[96tbird]

Try my music store, don’t have tools, nut check.

Fret the first. Note the gap size over the second fret. Tap on it to feel the gap.

Now fret the third. Note the gap over the first fret. Tap on it to compare that to step one.

The gaps should be very near the same amount. If step 2 is higher, your nut slots could be lowered.

This check will give you a good idea if the slots are high and have space to be filed lower.

If you have a set of feeler gauges you can measure the gaps using the same method to get a precise result.

This is only a quick check and if you want to file the slots, you definitely need to measure as you alter.

 

[MotorCityMinion]

I did not see any mention of a dimension related to string height at the first fret. Obtain that data first. Go buy a cheap feeler gauge at any auto parts store and measure the string height. See attachment.

The Ultimate Guide to The Perfect Bass Setup

Everything You Always Wanted To Learn and Know About Perfect Bass Setup

www.jerzydrozdbasses.com

 

[gln1955]

Why does your tech say you need a new nut? If the slots aren't cut low enough, he can deepen them. It's not as easy on a brass nut, but doable. A new nut may not be any better or could be worse. It will still have to be tuned to get the action you want.

 

[FunkHead]

Thank you. I might misunderstand (I know nothing on this stuff) but wouldn't that make the nut even higher? My setup guy reckons the nut is too high. As I understand it, being too high means that when you put the action low on the bridge it results in a bad angle that leads to fret buzz on low frets.

Yes Sorry, I associate Buzz with a low cut nut. I'm not sure what's going on with your bass but it still seems like a setup issue.
A good tech should have measured and given you the answer using science.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

It’s at best difficult to tell much from a picture but if an open string is buzzing the nut is probably too low not too high which would necessitate shimming or a new nut. Use 96tbird’s method in post 4 and see where you come out or get some feeler gauges and let us know.

 

[Aloe]

a high nut won't cause buzz on the first fret or open string, it doesn't work like this.
too little relief or too low saddle will.

to me it seems like the tech set up the bass with lower action that you prefer. just raise it, it's easier to raise the action than to lower it.

 

[Nebadon2000]

I always read when nut was to low open strings will buzz not fretted

And when nut was to high it will be harder (need more pressure) to fret 1st fret

And Nut height has no relation to fretted notes buzzing

 

[Zooberwerx]

Dodgy fretwork so you need a new nut?!? Is there a decent tech within driving distance? You need some proper diagnostics and a guy who can actually remedy the issues.

Riis

 

[Aloe]

And Nut height has no relation to fretted notes buzzing

uhm, unless we're having the backbuzz. which doesn't seem to be the case here, I think.

 

[hammfisted]

a high nut won't cause buzz on the first fret or open string, it doesn't work like this.
too little relief or too low saddle will.

to me it seems like the tech set up the bass with lower action that you prefer. just raise it, it's easier to raise the action than to lower it.

Yeah I see that. I think the logic is that for a given level of average action across the neck, you have to lower than bridge action even more and try to make it all work out through truss rod tweaks. I think.

Why does your tech say you need a new nut? If the slots aren't cut low enough, he can deepen them. It's not as easy on a brass nut, but doable. A new nut may not be any better or could be worse. It will still have to be tuned to get the action you want.

I think he was saying it would just be easier to get either a replacement brass nut from Spector that is almost correct off the shelf or a new nut in a different material that is easier to modify.

Dodgy fretwork so you need a new nut?!? Is there a decent tech within driving distance? You need some proper diagnostics and a guy who can actually remedy the issues.

Nah, he presented them to me as two separate issues.

But I will look for a highly rated luthier for a third opinion. Good advice. Thanks all.

 

[Aloe]

Yeah I see that. I think the logic is that for a given level of average action across the neck, you have to lower than bridge action even more and try to make it all work out through truss rod tweaks. I think.

actually nope, from what I see, you want to both raise the saddles and increase the relief for a higher action. I'd start with the truss rod, if only open strings or first frets bug you, but the higher positions don't. the fact, you think, your nut is high, is actually more low bridge saddles, from what I see.

the uniform action is even buzz on even force on all frets, not the uniform height on first and last frets, as it doesn't work like this.

if you didn't play for a while, you might tend to pluck the strings with greater force than you'll actually play, especially on speed, thus forming the impression you need a crazy high action. working on a uniform touch would allow you to set it lower. working on a precise and light touch -- even lower.

so, from here two options:
1. try to learn to play this one so lighly, it doesn't buzz
2. raise the action

raising the action might be a bit complex for a start, but many education videos available and you can bring your bass to the shop and ask them for a higher action.

 

[funkinbottom]

This vid should clear it up for you. If you don't feeler gauge, I've used a thick stock business card.



Edit. The other three videos of this series can be found on youtube.

 

[fretno]

If the nut slot is cut too low its a low nut. You need to do a proper setup to know for sure. Let’s say relief, saddle height and fret leveling are all set right then you can get a accurate reading at the first fret. I cut mine as low as possible before any buzz and that is within 1 to 1.5, 2x 64ths. Seasonal changes will be noticeable and regular adjustments required to maintain such low playability. Get a gauge. , read it from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string.
Zoom into the 64s on the end. That is how you read this gauge. This string is about 5x64s at that end of the gauge. Normally you would put that part of the gauge directly on the fret you are gauging

 

[thisSNsucks]

The symptoms you have on open strings wouldn’t be caused by a nut that’s too high. Too low, maybe.

Fret the string down at the 3rd fret then check for a gap between the bottom of the string and the 1st fret. If you have a little wiggle room there then the nut is not too low. If there is no wiggle room, it’s too low.

The issue with fretted notes is either a high fret or truss rod isssue.

 

[Boneless]

Honestly, this is the reason I don't have my basses set up anymore. Every time I take one of my basses to a guitar tech or a luthier, they set it up in such a way that I find it unpleasant to play (action too low, too much of a buzz). Thus, I set my basses up according to factory recommendations (note that the following happens on *all* my basses) and with the recommended relief and action the first few frets *always* buzz. Either all of my basses have a high fret in a low position or, more likely, I must have the touch of a coal miner. And you must too. Also because my conclusions are exactly the same as yours: look at this bass, it plays beautifully, like butter, but if I dig in just slightly over "lightly" I get fret buzz. I'm sorry, mate, your "lightly" must be as slight and gentle and delicate as a fart after two weeks of eating raw eggs and falafels.

Anyway, high nuts don't cause any issues related to fret buzz. They may cause intonation issues (when *extremely high*) or fatigue (much more likely).

 

[GroovinOnFunk]

Picked up a new Spector Euro LT in a store in Sydney five years ago and immediately had to buy it. It was the most beautiful bass to play I'd ever put hands on. A straight fast neck with very low action. Boom, I straight out stumped up the 4000 Aussie dollars (US $2700), first bass I'd bought in over a decade.

However, things didn't turn out quite as I hoped. After I brought it home, I noticed some things weren't quite right, including an intonation issue. (Intonation is the one I really remember, but potentially it might have also been fret buzz when playing low.) Anyway, I got it back and the immediate problems appeared resolved but it just... wasn't as good any more. The action was higher. There was more relief. It was still decent but it didn't feel like the beautiful fast machine that motivated me to dish out $4000.

I put it aside mentally and didn't play it much for a few months. Then there was the birth of my son; and I packed it under the couch for years - not only was my attention elsewhere but I was worried he might damage it during his infancy and toddler years. When I picked up a bass, it was my Fender or Yammy. Fast forward to 2024. I finally took it out and asked my local setup guy to have a look. He said the nut was too high, causing fret buzz on the lower frets. He also said there was some dodgy fret work in the higher register. He said I would need a new nut to fix it and asked me what I wanted to do.

I decided to contact Spector for a replacement nut, and noticed they had a concept called "Limited Lifetime Warranty". This apparently means they will replace certain parts if they aren't up to scratch under certain conditions at any time for the original owner. My understanding from communication with them is that the nut may be included under this warranty. Certainly it seems there is nothing I could have done to make the brass nut get higher; it must have been sold to me like that. I emailed Spector USA, and was responded to by Korg which owns Spector. Korg directed me to the local dealer, who in turn told me to take it to the store I bought it from. I understand that the dealer and store together decided that store would do a setup and see if I was satisfied with the outcome.

It was a good setup and it feels much more like the bass when I originally bought it. After all sitting under my couch for years wouldn't have been the best for it and the neck was a bit bowed. They disagreed the nut was too high and blamed the long period since the last setup for the performance issues I was noticing. They smoothed out the uneven fretwork. They said it was playing great now and told me to take it home and see what I thought.

But...... they didn't do anything about the nut. It now has a nice low action setup but buzzes a bit when playing moderately at the first fret, and on the open A string. By moderately, I mean more than gently, but not Entwhistle/Geddy Lee digging in. I can tolerate a little buzz when digging in, but an open string buzz seems... hard to tolerate.

I will take it to a luthier for a third opinion but thought I'd ask here. I know photos aren't great for this, but hey, that's what I have ready on hand. Note the daylight gap between the string and fretboard near the nut, compared to the extremely low action at the first fret, which the string is close to touching. Doesn't that indicate a nut being too high? If so, any recommendations?

I note someone else has worried about a similar issue with their Spector Euro.

Thanks for reading!

Buzzing when you have anything fretted means it has nothing to do with the nut and your actions is probably just too low or the issue is elsewhere.
The nut impacts open strings and only open strings. As soon as you fret the note, your fret is now the new nut, essentially

 

[BeMoreFrench]

Hi dude, sorry your Spector euro made is that sketchy.

To me there are many assumptions to make:
- if the nut is stil the original one, then it's not a problem as many others have mentioned here.
- dodgy fret work ? original frets ? replaced frets ? we don't have that information
- you put it aside, left under a couch for 5 years: did you put any moisture/humidity control packs in the gigbag/flycase ? and if so, did you control them regularly to check if they were still doing their job ? when the packs are a bit "inflated" it means the balls are full of humidity and can't do their job properly.

If you're talking about a bowed neck, there's also maybe someting else: the fretboard might be not flat anymore even in its neutral position (truss rod completely loosen) without string on the bass.

I would give it to a good luthier to make a proper complete refret job after removing the old frets and ask him/her to check the fretboard and if needed to do a sanding to get it perfectly flat before doing the refret. Yes it costs a bunch of money to get everything done that way, you could also brought it to a Plek machine guy but I don't know if there's one Down Under near you... this shop does all the jobs Refrets with a replaned fretboard done by the Plek machine, pricey, but given the price you paid, and the quality of this instrument, I'd do it IMHO.