Is there a significant difference in tone between neck-through and bolt-on basses?

[SurferJoe46]

I, just this past summer, completed an order for over 15 neck-through basses made of varieties of so-called 'tonewoods' that although had some very minor nuances in tone and voice, these I attributed to the different p'ups and strings they wanted.

I had an Epi LPS with a neckthrough that I adored for it's sustain. I never changed the strings once I bought it (this - the only bass I've ever bought used, and from a pawn shop! Imagine that!). The strings had cigarette smell on them that never left, as well as the stinky case which might've been used as an ashtray - I dunnow.

The smell and the sheer weight of the beast was it's undoing to me. I think it had rebar in it - honestly. This was a sit-down-player bass only.

After wearing out the spray bottle with 'anti-cigarette smoke/smell killers' on it, I sold it for more than I had in it. After all - it sparkled and the case was repaired and cleaned - over and over - so I got back my investment.

Here's the lowdown as I see it: as (I) having built numerous versions of basses with/without 'tonewood' and neck-throughs and bolt ons, I can't say that if in all other aspects of these basses and that if they were relatively close to the same - they all sound like a bass guitar.

Some are just prettier (wood-wise) than others and my theory is that the body is a convenient place to hang the bridge, the neck, some knobs and maybe a pickguard - they are sonic-ly and aurally pretty much the same.

This is not to say that I don't cater to various requests about wood and pickups - but I can't be angered by someone slapping me in the face with money.

 

[bassbenj]

If there is a difference in sound between a bolt-on neck versus a neck-through design, I sure haven't been able to hear it. It's more expensive because it's a fancier joint and that's pretty much all there is to it AFAIK.

And fancier neck joints sound better whether bolt-on (some Ritters are Bolt-on) or other. Tone difference is minimal, however and generally would be swamped by the tone of the particular pieces of wood being used.regardless of type of joint.

But the biggest impact will be your reach and feel around the neck joint. If you play high frets a lot in might be worth the money to you. If not then it doesn't matter. I've got three types: bolt-on, set-neck and neck-through. The bolt-on has a sort of bigger clunky joint to deal with playing up high. A neck-through is usually smooth and curved and excellent to play around. My set neck (Alembic Epic) is sort of somewhere in between. The set neck though more lumpy is certainly OK for me to play up to 24 frets. Neck-through is better though. Not sure of bolt-on because I don't have any two octave bolt-ons. If I had a 24 fret bolt-on I presume it would be just a tad more difficult to navigate around the highest frets.

 

[capnsandwich]

It looks like it's back on the market, you didn't like it or you did not go to check it out? I'm curious because I placed an order with Fodera two weeks ago but I went for the Imperial Elite.

I asked them to go ahead and put it back on the market. They'll have more coming in so I'm not worried about them not having them in stock.

 

[TSbR Bass]

This thread just saved me!! I was about to order for a neck-through, which is more expensive by English Pounds Sterling 400. Thanks for posting.

 

[Plekto]

I guess it's obligatory that I say something too... I come from this a bit different in that I have a technical background in computers and electronics. Here's what it boils down to:

It makes a big difference in an acoustic instrument or anything with a hollow body. The increased string length allows for better tension, which is by XL scale basses have a much easier time, especially with dropped tunings. That said, a normal bass can be built like that as well, but most 4 string basses aren't designed for heavy gauge strings.

But for electric bass? You may hear a difference or feel one, but the second you amplify it beyond practice levels, all anyone is really hearing is the pickups. It's why wood makes almost no difference for electric basses. You have 10-20db worth of harmonics and information in the sound and then it's swallowed by the 80db the pickups put out since they are all run so hot in the last 20+ years. Add in effects and and your amp and any hope you had of hearing the difference is smoothed out to oblivion.

The plus side is that you can buy any bass you want/feel comfortable with and all that really matters is the pickups and if it's stable/plays in tune for long enough to get you through a gig. That can be a LOT of money saved in the long run and a lot less worry about ruining a fancy bass on stage.

Also, as a side note, bolt on basses are a lot easier to fix if something needs to be worked on.

 

[Upr1ght]

My question is this; is it worth it in tonal aspects to fork over $2k more for a neck-through? BTW, I'm checking them both out come this Sunday so that answers that but still want to know the opinions of some of you all.

I can answer the tone difference, from my personal experience; the $$ valuation is left up to you, your budget/means, and your hunger for extraordinary experiences.

The one neck-through that I own is a Yamaha BB1200 from '79. This has been described as a P-bass on steroids, and I cannot disagree.
My first bass was a late 70s Precision (new at the time), which I played for a while before switching to a Dan Armstrong lucite (a bowling ball around the neck) to better suit the image of the band that was keeping me gigging steadily, so I have a good first hand experience with both styles. I own or have sold off a Peavey Foundation, "matching" natural/maple Squier VM Precision and Jazz basses, a couple of Yamaha RBXs, and a surprisingly enjoyable ESP LTD B50.
Here's the difference....the BB1200 "launches" notes from its structure, propels them forward with resolute velocity and sustain...the "steroid" analogy is quite apt.
I will also call upon your own experience (or expectation) of holding a two-foot long 2x4 and bumping the lumber against something by accident. You'd get a little vibration, but it would soon fade. Compare that with the experience of bumping a nearly 4' piece of lumber....the thing boings and vibrates far more, and sustains that vibration.
I LOVE the acoustic properties of the BB1200 (weight and neck-dive notwithstanding).

Interested to get your take after the comparison of your two prospects.

 

[Alembiccucurbit]

Bolts are metal, therefore, more metallic?

 

[pasi]

Repetition of an opinion about something does not make it true.

(Unless you’re a politician. )

Hehe ,mister funnyguy .get like’s this stupid comment.stupid

 

[Eddie LeBlanc]

I can answer the tone difference, from my personal experience; the $$ valuation is left up to you, your budget/means, and your hunger for extraordinary experiences.

The one neck-through that I own is a Yamaha BB1200 from '79. This has been described as a P-bass on steroids, and I cannot disagree.
My first bass was a late 70s Precision (new at the time), which I played for a while before switching to a Dan Armstrong lucite (a bowling ball around the neck) to better suit the image of the band that was keeping me gigging steadily, so I have a good first hand experience with both styles. I own or have sold off a Peavey Foundation, "matching" natural/maple Squier VM Precision and Jazz basses, a couple of Yamaha RBXs, and a surprisingly enjoyable ESP LTD B50.
Here's the difference....the BB1200 "launches" notes from its structure, propels them forward with resolute velocity and sustain...the "steroid" analogy is quite apt.
I will also call upon your own experience (or expectation) of holding a two-foot long 2x4 and bumping the lumber against something by accident. You'd get a little vibration, but it would soon fade. Compare that with the experience of bumping a nearly 4' piece of lumber....the thing boings and vibrates far more, and sustains that vibration.
I LOVE the acoustic properties of the BB1200 (weight and neck-dive notwithstanding).

Interested to get your take after the comparison of your two prospects.

I estimate that you have never played a quality neck through bass before. Maybe if you have, you would have a different experience. I've been collectiong and playing well for over 50 years, and have owned most everything, from Fenders, Hofners, Ibanez, Warwicks, Steinbergers, Rics, Tobias, USA G&Ls, and so many others. Even a T-bird (fun but needs modification of strap pins to stop neck-dive) And I have never found anything comparable to my USA Spector NS4s, period.

There is a reason a Neck thru costs more, it is because there is a lot more quality work to build a bass with a neck through design. There are a lot of folks that try that out there, but only a few that do it well. And they have been in business for many years, and have a proven track record.

BTW - Spectors have a three piece Maple neck with sets of Carbon Fiber stringers embedded in them. This reduces weight, increases structural integrity, and eliminates dead spots. And doing it that way for over 50 years.

So all I can say is "Viva La Difference"