• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Is there any reason to consider a regular (34") scale bass?

And sometimes a 35” is shorter than a 34”, overall that is

D6C001A9-35D5-405D-A834-DF5808ADFEA9.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mili and Jefenator
OK great thanks for all the tips! I think it makes more sense to me to stick with a shorter scale given my guitar background and age. I'll keep looking at shorter scales. I did play a couple a levels of Mustang (road worn and American) that really left me oddly disappointed considering that I'm a Fender guy when it comes to guitars. I guess I kind of like the flat necks of the Mikro and the Yamaha 34" that I've borrowed.

Don’t get too hung up on the scale because your a guitarist or because of your age. When you really think about it the scale length, which is the distance from the saddle to the nut, on a standard 20 fret bass the extra 4 inches would make about a 0.2 inch distance (I think) on each fret which is not a lot. I have quite small hands but still play 34 inch scale basses even though I prefer shorter scales on 6 string.

The way I have read the comments a lot of people are responding as if this is another “which is better” thread but that is not really what you are asking. Scale length does make a difference because it changes the way that the string vibrates so it will sound different. If you are only going to have on bass, no it doesn’t matter, both make the same notes in the end; however if you are buying another bass to have something new experiment with all scale lengths, string numbers, pickup types and have fun :bassist:
 
  • Like
Reactions: RyanKinBK
34" was the forerunner and purportedly derived as "near ideal" per a physics textbook.

I'm a retired engineer and I took a lot of physics in school and applied it all through my career. I've seen that story about getting the scale length of 34" from a physics book but I've looked and I've never been able to find any mention of it in any physics book I've seen. Does anybody know which physics book it was in?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zooberwerx
Most short scales I've played felt a bit "rubbery" to me, with lower string tension, but as the onset of arthritis in my hands makes playing slightly painful, I may make the switch from long to at least medium scale. I'm building a 32" scale right now, hoping that compromise is easier on my hands. I tend to like the sound of 34" scale better the lower strings, but i suppose that's down to string choice.
 
I'm a bass newbie, but longtime guitar player (45+ years). I bought an Ibanez Mikro on a whim, and now I've decided that I really like playing bass! And of course, just like with guitars, I've got the urge to get more basses, starting with a partner for the Mikro.

My question is, is there really any reason to consider a full scale regular size bass? I borrowed a nice Yamaha bass with the 34" scale and for the most part it does not seem to be too difficult to adapt to that length scale. But is there any real reason to get a bass with that scale length, or is it just tradition? The shorter scales (something like a 30" scale) are easier for my "guitar hands".
Another vote for "far more options available" in 34" scale instruments. They're the standard.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mili
in one word, TONE

Correct! In more words:

With longer strings, there is higher tension and more pronounced overtones. It might seem counterintuitive at first, but this means short scale basses sound more boomy and have less mid-high range articulation than long scale basses. If you've ever heard a U-bass compared to a double bass, you know what I mean.

Of course you can compensate with technique, strings, and signal chain, but you cannot get around the physics of a shorter vibrating length of wire having lower tension and less pronounced overtones.

This might be perfect for you and the kind of music you make. But if you find yourself wanting a tighter sound, you might try a long scale.
 
OK great thanks for all the tips! I think it makes more sense to me to stick with a shorter scale given my guitar background and age. I'll keep looking at shorter scales. I did play a couple a levels of Mustang (road worn and American) that really left me oddly disappointed considering that I'm a Fender guy when it comes to guitars. I guess I kind of like the flat necks of the Mikro and the Yamaha 34" that I've borrowed.
Gibson SG basses are pretty sweet.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 123Nil
I'm a retired engineer and I took a lot of physics in school and applied it all through my career. I've seen that story about getting the scale length of 34" from a physics book but I've looked and I've never been able to find any mention of it in any physics book I've seen. Does anybody know which physics book it was in?

Heck if I know. Some of the rabid Fender gurus may have a clue. All I can recall is it was a subordinate's physics text in use in a SoCal college setting circa '50-'51.

I'm still trying to figure out the ol' "two trains leave Chicago..." scenario.

Riis
 
  • Like
Reactions: bumperbass
To directly address the original question:
I'd argue that your comfort is the most important part of choosing any guitar, and component of tone, because a guitar that isn't comfortable will, at best, disrupt how you play. At worst, you won't even pick it up, and if you don't pick it up, every other concern is moot. Scale length, body contours, neck shape, etc, are all critical elements of comfort, so these should probably be your first line of deal-breakers.

I have a 35" 5-string that I rarely play, because it isn't terribly comfortable. Physics-ally speaking, that length is more ideal for a 5-string, but physically speaking, that kinda doesn't matter if I can't play it comfortably.

To join the wider discussion of tone:
Talk to X number of bassists, and you'll get X number of different answers on the subject. Many valid considerations have been mentioned here already, and many of those are based on valid physics principles. My perspective is rooted in practicality and physics, with tone being the end product of an additive (or more accurately, a multiplicative) process.

Think about yourself as a player. Do you tend to favor lower/higher positions, or do you play low and high equally? In lower positions, your neck is responsible for the resonance of more string length than the body, and thus contributes more to tone. In higher positions, the body starts to play more of a role in resonance by proportion, and thus, more of a role in tone.

Do you play with a pick, or your fingers? Do you like the brighter sound of a pick, or is it a concession you make for comfort and/or familiarity? If you're not so fond of the brightness, a softer (e.g., rosewood) fretboard can help dampen it, while a bare maple neck can intensify that brightness if it's something you want in your sound. Conversely, the rosewood fretboard's dampening effect might not be so desirable playing finger-style, unless you need to curb an aggressive attack.

These are the types of focused questions that come up when people are designing custom/signature models, but they're equally helpful in choosing off-the-shelf guitars along the way, and I haven't even gotten into pickups, strings, or myriad other factors yet.

Ultimately, tone is a complex thing, and underestimating its complexity is a good way to find yourself unhappy with the final product. Think about how you play and what you want to hear, and make adjustments to accentuate or diminish as needed.
 
So I'm the farthest thing from a tone scientist or expert player that you'll find but I'll still weigh in. So about a year and a half ago I got back into playing bass, and I bought a brand new MIM fender mustang. It was a pretty dope bass, sounded warm and looked great. I got it because I never owned a short scale so I figured I'd try it out, but then I wondered how I would fair if I had to play a full size (say I had to stable the mustang for some reason). At that point I picked up a MIM P bass, and the difference was profound. I enjoyed the challenge of spreading my hands/swinging my wrist like I had to as a youngster with my first bass (basic yamaha, can't remember the model).

I also found some other differences. I noticed that if I held a note too far back from the fret on the mustang it would project nothing but fret buzz, where as the p bass would still loosely sound the note. Slapping and popping on the P bass was also a better experience, that may just be me though. In other words the P bass handled my sloppy "style" a lot better.

Lastly you're limited not only in the strings department but you'll also be limited when it comes to cases. I personally spent hours looking for a case for the mustang and finally ended up with a Gator case that was intended for guitars. Then I sold the little guy and bought another 34'' bass, and here I am. However that little mustang was super good looking and I do kind of miss it, and honestly if you hit all the notes just right the tone was phenomenal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thereisnoscotty
In other words the P bass handled my sloppy "style" a lot better.

Nail, head. Jaco would still sound mostly like Jaco on a fretted First Act bass. Your sound starts with you as a player; everything after that is boost or cut.

Lastly you're limited not only in the strings department but you'll also be limited when it comes to cases. I personally spent hours looking for a case for the mustang and finally ended up with a Gator case that was intended for guitars.

This is also a really good thing to mention. Finding accessories for uncommon scales may be more difficult, but I've always found that to be less of a drawback when it's an instrument I really enjoy playing.
 
My first bass was an EB-3 in 1968. Heck I didn't know the difference. I didn't know anything, really. In '74 I bought a Fender Jazz. Got used to it right away, then bought and stuck with a P bass.
I have a cheapo Hofner copy violin bass that I bought to play with 2 guys in an acoustic trio about 10 years ago.
When I get it out to play it, my mind just goes into a different mindset...I think differently when I play it, which means more often than not, I play more notes, too many notes mostly.
 
I switch back and forth between 34" basses and my 6 string guitar without thinking about it all. They are just different instruments and you do what you need to do when you pick it up to play. I would just get whichever bass you like.