Is there anything special about instrument grade Alder?

[jaminjamesp]

I'd like to buy some alder for bodies. I've been using pre-made blanks, but it's just too cost prohibitive. There is family owned saw mill not too far from me that stocks superior alder. They told me I could have free reign of their inventory and select what I want. Besides weight and tap tone, is there anything I should keep my eye on?

The bodies are mostly finished in opaque colors, so the appearance of the grain isn't too important to me.

 

[Lonnybass]

I'd like to buy some Alder to make a few Bass bodies. There is family owned saw mill that not too far from me that stocks kiln dried Alder. The have two grades. I think the higher grade was around $3 a board ft.

The bodies will be finished in opaque colors, so the appearance of the grain isn't too important to me. Other than looking for lighter pieces, is there anything to consider when buying Alder for a bass body?

Just keep an eye out for voids and knots that might post a structural weakness. I've had to work around blanks that had big gaping knotty holes, and others that appeared solid and revealed knotty runout on the endgrain.

 

[reverendrally]

I'd like to buy some Alder to make a few Bass bodies. There is family owned saw mill that not too far from me that stocks kiln dried Alder. The have two grades. I think the higher grade was around $3 a board ft.

The bodies will be finished in opaque colors, so the appearance of the grain isn't too important to me. Other than looking for lighter pieces, is there anything to consider when buying Alder for a bass body?

Anything used for production line electric instruments is by nature cheap and plentiful. For sure look out for faults like suggested above, but I wouldn't stress too much about it. Like you say, it's opaque painted. As long as it's stable and straight, it should be fine. In fact, I've used some pretty awful wood for laminated necks. It turned out ok too.

 

[sondich]

Generally speaking alder trees are small and not particularly clean. The alder grades are skewed to allow more defects than you'd see in other species like alder. You may have to flip through a few courses to find a high yield board even in the upper grade. $3/BF is a great price, though.

Also Alder is sometimes dried at a higher moisture content than other hardwoods. Bring a moisture meter or ask to borrow one at the mill. If it's measuring over 10% you may want to put on stickers for a while before making your bodies. Good luck.

 

[JIO]

I'd like to buy some Alder to make a few Bass bodies. There is family owned saw mill that not too far from me that stocks kiln dried Alder. The have two grades. I think the higher grade was around $3 a board ft.

The bodies will be finished in opaque colors, so the appearance of the grain isn't too important to me. Other than looking for lighter pieces, is there anything to consider when buying Alder for a bass body?

I've had good luck with basswood blanks lately - very clear, nice hardness for cutting/shaping and light!

 

[jaminjamesp]

Generally speaking alder trees are small and not particularly clean. The alder grades are skewed to allow more defects than you'd see in other species like alder. You may have to flip through a few courses to find a high yield board even in the upper grade. $3/BF is a great price, though.

Also Alder is sometimes dried at a higher moisture content than other hardwoods. Bring a moisture meter or ask to borrow one at the mill. If it's measuring over 10% you may want to put on stickers for a while before making your bodies. Good luck.

I'm probably going to be making three piece bodies. In a perfect world I'd like a 2 piece body for the simple sake of being able to say they are 2 piece. In reality, I don't believe it has any effect on tone that is perceptible. I'm hoping the 3 piece body makes finding suitable pieces a bit easer. The place was recommended to me by a luthier friend of mine who makes pretty exquisite instruments. It's a father son operation that has been around for years in town. The place isn't much to look at, they don't even have a website (thats how you know its good!), and all the high end woodworkers in town swear by their quality. Thanks for the tip on the moisture content. I don't have a moisture meter, but I'll see if I can borrow one from my buddy.

I've had good luck with basswood blanks lately - very clear, nice hardness for cutting/shaping and light!

From the research I've done, it seems there are so many species that get labeled basswood. I think I read somewhere like in the 50s, or something wild. Some if it seems great, others not so much. Got any tips on how to select the best?

 

[JIO]

From the research I've done, it seems there are so many species that get labeled basswood. I think I read somewhere like in the 50s, or something wild. Some if it seems great, others not so much. Got any tips on how to select the best?

I'd have to see if I can find the info of the sellers - I've ordered 3 and they were all very good. Maybe I have just been lucky as they were all picked over the net.

update: found these two eBay sellers that I purchased from -

dbreflections on eBay

stangluver73 on eBay

 

[FBB Custom]

If the high grade is $3 a foot get it. Higher grades have fewer defects so you'll get higher yield. $3/ft is as low as you will find for any species at most lumber yards. Getting lumber from a sawmill is an awesome way to go but it's always a good idea to let wood acclimate and yeah, a moisture meter is a good idea if you can find one. Talk to the sawyers and they will probably not steer you wrong.

Alder can hide internal stresses that can cause checking on the end grain once you start cutting. Keep an eye out for them and fill them with CA and you'll be fine if you are doing opaque colors.