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Is this fixable?

J-Bassomatic

J-Bassomatic

Mar 30, 2017
2,628
4,845
Canton OH
#1
I must have knocked this bass over but I do not remember it. The damage seems to be greater than the simple 'fall over' that occurred.
Can this be repaired or do I need a new tuner machine?
I tried some pliers but the metal seems to be resistant to change. :)
The tuner key seem to fall out of the tuner machine post.
Thanks in advance!
Fender MIM J Bass
G-tuner.png
 

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#3
You’d have to try to carefully squeeze the post back into shape first. Depending on the metal it may not want to go or it may just break. However, you don’t have a whole lot to loose either. If pliers don’t work try lining some vise jaws with rags or leather or use a wood vise. Remember, go slowly. If you can get the post back to where it somewhat holds the key you could CA glue or epoxy the key back in. If you’re really feeling adventurous you could even drill and pin the key once it’s glued in.


Or… get a new tuner. Even an expensive one might be less then what the time is worth to you.
 
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#10
MYLOWFREQ said:
Happened to me and I got it fixed by gently bending it back with a set of pliers, cleaning the contact points with 99% alcohol, and putting it back together with gorilla superglue. I let it dry for 24 hours. Honestly I though it would come off soon after, but it's been a couple of years and there's no problems yet.
Click to expand...
I think I'll try this, what the heck? I noticed it when I went to tune it and the key wasn't there. I found it on the floor later in the day. Maybe I'll buy a new tuner just in case the fix fails and I lose the part. Thanks.
 
#11
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#13
For any fix to work long term, it is imperative that the parts mate closely.

  1. Remove tuning machine from headstock.
  2. Press the shaft together. A vise with padded jaws works fine. A C-clamp with pads works well, too.
  3. When the sides of the slot are parallel, clean and degrease.
  4. Clean and decrease clover section.
  5. Apply appropriate adhesive.*
  6. Join the parts. If you like, use some masking tape to hold in place until adhesive cures.
  7. Clean any residue.
  8. Replace tuner, string, tune, and play.

*Adhesives to consider include epoxy and CA glue.

If the parts mate closely, wick some liquid thin CA glue into the parts. Allow to cure. Do not use accelerator!

If the parts do not mate as well but are very close, use slow curing epoxy.

If the parts require filling, buy a new tuner. Or better yet, replace them all with something lighter and more precise.


As a rule, fillers are not strong. JB Weld's claim to fame is it's ability to fill. It is in fact strong when used like a glue with closely mated parts. Soon as it's used to fill a large cap that requires resistance to force, it will eventually fail. But that is true of virtually all adhesives. That said, it's a very good product when used as intended.
 
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#16
G-tuner-fix1.png
202dy said:
For any fix to work long term, it is imperative that the parts mate closely.

  1. Remove tuning machine from headstock.
  2. Press the shaft together. A vise with padded jaws works fine. A C-clamp with pads works well, too.
  3. When the sides of the slot are parallel, clean and degrease.
  4. Clean and decrease clover section.
  5. Apply appropriate adhesive.*
  6. Join the parts. If you like, use some masking tape to hold in place until adhesive cures.
  7. Clean any residue.
  8. Replace tuner, string, tune, and play.

*Adhesives to consider include epoxy and CA glue.

If the parts mate closely, wick some liquid thin CA glue into the parts. Allow to cure. Do not use accelerator!

If the parts do not mate as well but are very close, use slow curing epoxy.

If the parts require filling, buy a new tuner. Or better yet, replace them all with something lighter and more precise.


As a rule, fillers are not strong. JB Weld's claim to fame is it's ability to fill. It is in fact strong when used like a glue with closely mated parts. Soon as it's used to fill a large cap that requires resistance to force, it will eventually fail. But that is true of virtually all adhesives. That said, it's a very good product when used as intended.
Click to expand...
OK, I tried a variant of this. I am looking for a new tuner, I can't find one on Fender's site but eventually I will find one.
In the meantime I used pliers, some nice pliers, not those cheap ass pliers you find in the .99 cent bin at the drug store :laugh:. I squeezed the end shut just enough to squeeze the key.
G-tuner-fix1.png


It damaged the end of the key a bit, really soft metal, but it is tight enough that I can't move it and it will stay in place till I get a replacement.
Thanks people! You rock.
 
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#17
The last set of MIM bass machine heads I snagged off ebay was a set of takeoffs that looked to be new, for less than $25 free shipping and included mounting screws.
 

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