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IT'S ALIVE!!! Warmoth Build Complete...

#41
mslatter said:
It's a string-through (though not strung that way in these picks.) If he were just filling a couple screw holes and moving the bridge pieces, that's one thing. Filling in the string-through holes and ferrule sink can be a daunting patch job, depending on your skills and tools.
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Well, then you're screwed. ;):D

Another option to at least fix the fingerboard/strings centering problem is to put a short shim either on the inside (deep), E string side or the outside (near the outer edge), G string side of the neck pocket. This should shift the angle of the neck enough to line the strings up. Won't fix the too narrow width over the pole pieces though. :(
 
#45
greendayjustin said:
Hey SEK, what set of Fralin pickups did you use? I'm thinking about going the Fralin rout for the P/J I am currently building but was unsure of the amount of hum I would get from the bridge J pickup. Any insight you can offer would be great.

Cheers,
Justin
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Justin: I ordered the Fralins from Best Bass Gear, and the invoice simply says Lindy Fralin 4 String P with Split J Pickup Set Black: $250.00. The split coil of the J bridge pup I believe makes it humbucking. Either way, not a buzz out of 'em. I went to great lengths to make sure the pots were grounded properly, the solder points were well-prepped, hookup wires were tinned, and control cavity shielded with copper tape.

BigOldHarry said:
re. Neck fit: I had followed this thread:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475496&highlight=fenderbird

that had this entry:...


...That concerned me. This particular picture sure makes the neck/body joint look odd, but your pix look great - so I'm wondering what's the difference.

No matter....

Enjoy!
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Ah, I understand now. Here's the difference: I ordered a 24 fret board, so there's some overhang. Yep, the fret board extends beyond the heel of the neck by about 2 inches. Will I ever use those babies? Probably not, but it sure looks a hell of a lot better.

As far as the string spacing issue goes, the bass feels and sounds great, so I'm not too bent out of shape about it. As others have mentioned above, trying to fix it to death would most likely result in ruining an almost perfect bass - not gonna do it, wouldn't be prudent. For my first custom project, I'm very pleased with the end result.
 
#47
SEK said:
As far as the string spacing issue goes, the bass feels and sounds great, so I'm not too bent out of shape about it. As others have mentioned above, trying to fix it to death would most likely result in ruining an almost perfect bass - not gonna do it, wouldn't be prudent. For my first custom project, I'm very pleased with the end result.
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That's the spirit! Enjoy the new bass. It sure looks great. It probably won't be your last build, either. It's addicting. Next time, respect -- no, wait -- worship -- the center line.
 
#48
Doesnt the bridge saddle allow some side to side adjustability? Loosen the lock screws in the front of the saddles, then it looks like the g string can be moved towards E string a bit and the E string can be moved a little. Not much room inside the 'rails', but still something
SEK said:
As far as the string spacing issue goes, the bass feels and sounds great, so I'm not too bent out of shape about it. As others have mentioned above, trying to fix it to death would most likely result in ruining an almost perfect bass
Click to expand...
 
#50
elBandito said:
Doesnt the bridge saddle allow some side to side adjustability? Loosen the lock screws in the front of the saddles, then it looks like the g string can be moved towards E string a bit and the E string can be moved a little. Not much room inside the 'rails', but still something
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Looking at those I think the only adjustability is forward and back for intonation. A small shim on the side of the neck heel (lower left corner when viewed from the front pic/E string side towards the bridge) would line those strings up.

He still won't be able to put them at the proper width for the fingerboard and pole pieces without redrilling/mounting the bridge pieces or getting a new bridge altogether. This is what I would do. Get a good quality (ABM, Hipshot A, etc.), cover up the bad holes with it and forget about the needless thru-body stringing.....IMHO. :smug:
 
#51
My new Explorer, I named it "Axeplorer". A friend from Berlin built it. We had to do the upper top wood of the wing in two parts because I could not find a piece of quillted maple that was big neough for the shape.. I placed the pus in the back because I don't like the sound of woofers like Billy does :-)
Since I got it I fell in love with the explorer shape and are allready planing the next one!

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