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Double Bass Jay Haida Bass Set-Up

I recently bought a Jay Haida "l'ancien" model and have a set-up problem.
The bridge, instead of being centered on the inner notches of the f-holes is
placed so that the leading edge (the fingerboard side) is in line with said notches.
In other words, the bridge is a whole bridge width towards the saddle.
How can this be? All of the basses and cellos I've seen have bridges centered on
the inner f-hole notches. I'm new to the double bass. I've been playing electric
professionally since '69, bought an Alembic Series 1 5-string in '92, and finally
bought an NS Design 5-string electric upright a few years ago and have been studying
Rabbath, Vance, Simandl, et. al. What to do? My teacher (Alex Scott) and I finally
attenuated a massive wolf tone at the A 8va on the A string with decidedly mixed
results. I tried centering the bridge, but realized the sound-post would have to be
moved also. I went back to the shop to have the nut lowered and the bridge was placed in its
current position. I'm at a loss as to my next move. Any advice would be appreciated!
Thank you!
 
If the luthier who did the nut work put the bridge where it is now, I'd guess he didn't move the soundpost. I'd be tempted to reposition the bridge myself and try it. If the soundpost does need moving, it's not a big deal
Thanks, Neil. I'm just wondering if the current bridge position is there for a reason. I find it hard to believe that the bass was made that way on purpose. I'm also worried about potential damage without proper support if I do move it, and the soundpost is too far away to adequately support it. Thanks again.
 
OP said the bridge is scooted down toward the saddle not up toward the board.

That’s a ghetto way to raise the action without installing adjusters. I literally can’t think of any other reason to do that.
Move it where it "should be" if you want and take it to a good bass luthier to check it out. This is no big deal. The previous owner probably wanted to shorten the string length a bit.

It's Haide, BTW.
Sorry, got mixed up. I had them put an adjustable bridge on it right after I bought it, but it's bottomed out- you can only raise it.
Move it where it "should be" if you want and take it to a good bass luthier to check it out. This is no big deal. The previous owner probably wanted to shorten the string length a bit.

It's Haide, BTW.
Thanks, Eric Hochberg, it's new not used.
 
Congrats for your new bass! FYI I have the same model and it has a heavy wolf on the A harmonic too. I have a wolf eliminator attached to the underside of the top plate, and with lower tension strings ( especially with the A having lesser tension than E ) it`s almost completely gone.
 
The Jay Haide basses are great and I see a lot of them in the UK. Really good value and well made. If you make sure it's well set up then it will be a lot of fun to play, especially as you have a good set of strings on. I'm sure getting the bridge in the right spot is the right move. It may have moved in transit at some point, or by a player due to preference and it's very likely the sound post may still be in the original position...plus if it's not it's a simple job for a luthier and you could also get them to check it over and make any small adjustments to the set up.
Good luck with your new bass, it's a great instrument!
 
Hi. "A wolf tone eliminator attached to the underside of the top plate"- What/how does that work?


Hello, while beeing strictly a bass player and not-too-mathematically-minded person, and not speaking english as my main lanquage, I`ve understood that a wolf tone is caused by string and top plate vibrations " fighting " against each other and thus making a certain frequency fuzzy. You can MOVE the wolf by adding a weight to the string afterlenght to the place where that harmonic is on the afterlenght, or you can add a weight under the top plate, which at least should be more effective method to diminsh the wolf. There are also WOLF TERMINATORS, which are also weights that are attached to the top plate, and should work wonders, but a more knowledgeable person than me might be better in analyzing how they work. Hope this helps, R.
 
OP said the bridge is scooted down toward the saddle not up toward the board.
That’s a ghetto way to raise the action without installing adjusters.

Just on my first coffee, but doesn't moving the bridge south lower the action?

To the OP, if it's new and oddly set up the seller should definitely make it better. The adjusters shouldn't be bottomed out. It's supposed to be adjustable, not maxed out.
 
The Jay Haide basses are great and I see a lot of them in the UK. Really good value and well made. If you make sure it's well set up then it will be a lot of fun to play, especially as you have a good set of strings on. I'm sure getting the bridge in the right spot is the right move. It may have moved in transit at some point, or by a player due to preference and it's very likely the sound post may still be in the original position...plus if it's not it's a simple job for a luthier and you could also get them to check it over and make any small adjustments to the set up.
Good luck with your new bass, it's a great instrument!
Thanks Geoff but it's brand new I'm the first owner. Really enjoy your videos, too!
 
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Hello, while beeing strictly a bass player and not-too-mathematically-minded person, and not speaking english as my main lanquage, I`ve understood that a wolf tone is caused by string and top plate vibrations " fighting " against each other and thus making a certain frequency fuzzy. You can MOVE the wolf by adding a weight to the string afterlenght to the place where that harmonic is on the afterlenght, or you can add a weight under the top plate, which at least should be more effective method to diminsh the wolf. There are also WOLF TERMINATORS, which are also weights that are attached to the top plate, and should work wonders, but a more knowledgeable person than me might be better in analyzing how they work. Hope this helps, R.
Thanks Reiska- I put a wolf tone eliminator on the A string and it helped a lot.