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Jazz Shielding Pictorial (Big Images Warning)

[nice jobQUOTE=Lyle Caldwell;1837634]There have been a lot of questions about shielding and star grounding, so maybe this will help someone.

Here's the schematic I came up with to do this with:

SchematicBVT.jpg


First, I took everything out of the cavities and cleaned them to get rid of dust and manufacturing residue. Then I applied copper foil with adhesive backing to the control and pickup cavities. I tack soldered the seams and made sure each piece of foil read 0 ohms potential with every other piece. Then I made copper tubes (wrapped the foil around a screwdriver shaft of the right diameter) that run from cavity to cavity, tack soldered on each end. I also screwed a ground lug to the wall of the control cavity through the copper shielding. See photo:

ControlCavity.jpg


Here's the shielding inside the pickup cavities:

PickupCavities.jpg


Here's a closeup of the ground lug:

GroundLugCloseUp.jpg


Here's the actual wiring on the pots (reference the schematic above):

PotsWiring1.jpg


And here is the other side of the wiring:

PotsWiring2.jpg


Here's the top side of the control plate:

ControlsTop.jpg


Now, while there is still single coil hum (reduced, but still there), there is no noise at all when the blend knob is centered, and the bass is quiet even when I'm not touching any grounded metal components (strings, bridge, controls, etc). Soon I will put Sadowsky hum cancelling pickups in and the bass will be dead quiet. I also will be installing a S-1 switch in place of the current volume pot to allow series/parallel switching. I'll post that stuff when I'm done.

But for now, I'm pleased. The bass is much quieter, and the control layout (blend, master volume, master tone) is much easier to work with than the stock 62 RI stacked volumes and tones.

The pickups have much more clarity now without being bright (which I can't explain, really, unless it's the cumulative effects of a lot of little changes, like how the pickups are loaded together in the stock configuration and how the absence of RFI and other environmental noise leads to clarity- who knows?).

The tone control is now also much more musically useful (I changed from the stock cheap ceramic caps to a Sprague 715P .047uf cap- the same value that was on the stock neck tone pot, but this cap, or maybe this schematic, allows for more of the tone to be rolled off if needed, and the "sweep" of the tone pot has a lot more "sweet spots").

Please note that I didn't do the actual soldering with the bass exposed like that. I had towels and scraps of old T shirt to protect the bass surfaces when the soldering gun was out.
[/QUOTE]
 
Nice job! I like to have a ground running across the pots. That way, if any of the pots come loose it won't break the ground. I've seen that happen. I've also at times done the inside of the pup covers. You have to be really careful to keep the foil very smoothly applied and not nick any of the coil windings. If you use a gun instead of a low watt pencil you can solder all the seams inside the cavities. Not needed, but it does look cool.

-mike
 
I've really been wanting to shield/ground my bass but my problem is I have a Jaguar. I took it to a tech (under warranty) to fix the active channel and it came back with a terrible ground loop in it. I tried to convince him to fix it (after warranty) but he claims that's how it's supposed to be, which may be a semi-valid argument since Fender seems to have terrible shielding/grounding practices.

Anyways, this is what I'm looking at: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] and [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

This looks damn near impossible but I'm really tired of this ground loop. Is it do-able for the uneducated such as myself?

Semi-related: With the active preamp on, I can't put the volume up past ~75% or it clips like no other. Is there a fix for this?
 
Hey Vic im a little confused to one thing.. I plan on ripping apart my Passive Jazz in next week once i have my new pick ups and pre.. so i know under the bridge there has to be a wire to ground the bridge which you tac onto the main cavity bring all to zero potential.. but under the pick ups there's those plates?? do they have to be used?? they are on my jazz now but i was planning on taking that foam out and just putting in new foam without plates.. and from the main cavity if i just take i wire up to the ground part of the jack input on the pre is that ok? its a east Pre if that helps
 
Hey Vic im a little confused to one thing.. I plan on ripping apart my Passive Jazz in next week once i have my new pick ups and pre.. so i know under the bridge there has to be a wire to ground the bridge which you tac onto the main cavity bring all to zero potential.. but under the pick ups there's those plates?? do they have to be used?? they are on my jazz now but i was planning on taking that foam out and just putting in new foam without plates.. and from the main cavity if i just take i wire up to the ground part of the jack input on the pre is that ok? its a east Pre if that helps
Those plates are no longer necessary if you shield the pickup cavities. That's what they're trying to do. On the ground point, as long as it's common to everything, I don't think it matters where you put it.
 
Anyone else find that the jpegs on the first page aren't loading for them? Maybe Lyle's server is down. If so I just hope it's temporary! I was just going to start this shielding project tonight, but I'm a little hesitant w/o the pictures as a visual guide. Think I'll just read over the material right now & wait. If they're loading for anyone else and you can tell me what I'm doing wrong, that would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 
Anyone else find that the jpegs on the first page aren't loading for them? Maybe Lyle's server is down. If so I just hope it's temporary! I was just going to start this shielding project tonight, but I'm a little hesitant w/o the pictures as a visual guide. Think I'll just read over the material right now & wait. If they're loading for anyone else and you can tell me what I'm doing wrong, that would be much appreciated. Thanks.
It's working for me. Thing is, even if that fails, my word doc (fully crediting Lyle of course) has them in it and you can still download that. :)

Check here:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2448997&postcount=103
 
Thanks Vic! Your word doc is just the ticket. I do think Lyle's server is down, though, and I bet that your browser is pulling the jpegs locally from its cache on your computer, and not his server. No matter. I can get to work now!
Yeah, I did it for two reasons... just in case there would be a problem with the originals, but also so it'd be easier to print out better. Enjoy!
 
Well I don't think I'm going to have at it tonight. I have a gig on Saturday and this is beginning to look like a pretty big project.

I actually want to do two things: the star grounding from this thread, and the Series/Parallel w/3PDT switch (not push/pull pot) mod from the thread below -
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141764

Now I'm confused about where to put the two pickup's negative leads when it comes to proper star grounding. At the top of this thread the diagram & pictures show neg leads go to the ground lug in the control cavity, but in the Series/Parallel thread Lyle's diagram shows neck p/up neg lead to the switch & bridge p/up neg lead to the negative lug of the output jack... and it shows soldering to the back of all three pots that the star grounding diagram does not show.

Is there a way to do the Series/Parallel w/3PDT switch mod *and* still do proper star grounding?

Thanks in advance for any help.