Jolana was/is a Czech brand and this bass dates back to the 80's when Czechoslovakia was part of the USSR. There's some good info on this site: The Unique Guitar Blog: Jolana Guitars - First Electric Guitars Made In Czechoslavakia
The Discobass body was based on a Gibson RD shape. I have always loved those RDs...except for the weight. They are usually in the 10-11 pound range – no thanks.
I’m not sure why they called this a Discobass, but it brings to mind Steve Martin and Dan Ackroyd doing their “Wild and Crazy Guys” bit.
Here's an ad for the bass: I guess if you're buying a bass in 1980's Czechoslovakia, you want to see the schematic!
I picked up this 80’s Discobass body from an Ebay seller that was offering the neck separately. The neck had a broken truss rod nut, and I didn’t want to get into replacing a truss rod. One of the pics from the listing:
Here is is at home. As you can see, there is extensive checking (no pun intended)and some separation of the glue joints:
All the hardware is heavy duty and all screws are flat head. The bridge is a thick chromed bent plate, with saddles that are ½” in diameter.
I looked around for a neck that could work. The original was 34 inch scale with 21 frets, and a heel width of 2-5/16. I have an Epiphone hockey stick neck with the right width, but it’s only 20 frets. Using that would mean moving the bridge. I like the look of the checked finish (Lacquer?), so didn’t want to move the bridge.
Checking the Talkbass classifieds I came across a Warmoth neck - 1.5 nut, slim taper roasted maple/maple with carbon fiber rods. And 21 frets! Of course the fingerboard normally extends over the body to achieve this, but I can deal with that. I bought the neck and when it arrived, swapped it onto my fretless –a Warmoth dinky P body to try it out. It worked well and actually matched up nicely with that body - but no. Stay on track!
Here is the body mocked up with the neck:
Then it was decision time – Do I route the body for the neck? Or route the neck heel for the body? Or narrow the neck?
The Discobass body was based on a Gibson RD shape. I have always loved those RDs...except for the weight. They are usually in the 10-11 pound range – no thanks.
I’m not sure why they called this a Discobass, but it brings to mind Steve Martin and Dan Ackroyd doing their “Wild and Crazy Guys” bit.
Here's an ad for the bass: I guess if you're buying a bass in 1980's Czechoslovakia, you want to see the schematic!
I picked up this 80’s Discobass body from an Ebay seller that was offering the neck separately. The neck had a broken truss rod nut, and I didn’t want to get into replacing a truss rod. One of the pics from the listing:
Here is is at home. As you can see, there is extensive checking (no pun intended)and some separation of the glue joints:
All the hardware is heavy duty and all screws are flat head. The bridge is a thick chromed bent plate, with saddles that are ½” in diameter.
I looked around for a neck that could work. The original was 34 inch scale with 21 frets, and a heel width of 2-5/16. I have an Epiphone hockey stick neck with the right width, but it’s only 20 frets. Using that would mean moving the bridge. I like the look of the checked finish (Lacquer?), so didn’t want to move the bridge.
Checking the Talkbass classifieds I came across a Warmoth neck - 1.5 nut, slim taper roasted maple/maple with carbon fiber rods. And 21 frets! Of course the fingerboard normally extends over the body to achieve this, but I can deal with that. I bought the neck and when it arrived, swapped it onto my fretless –a Warmoth dinky P body to try it out. It worked well and actually matched up nicely with that body - but no. Stay on track!
Here is the body mocked up with the neck:
Then it was decision time – Do I route the body for the neck? Or route the neck heel for the body? Or narrow the neck?