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Just blew a cab for the first time

I will often put it on 10 (as in full blast on the knob), but never moves below 9 o'clock.
So we have indeed been talking apples and oranges all along.

2F/2F, if you almost crank something you may call it "9 out of 10" but not "9 o'clock".

9 o'clock means exactly what it says: pointing straight left like 9 on a clock.

Likewise, "3 o'clock" means pointing straight to the right. Which is: almost cranked.

Please use the expressions the same way we all do.
Thank you.
 
So we have indeed been talking apples and oranges all along.

2F/2F, if you almost crank something you may call it "9 out of 10" but not "9 o'clock".

9 o'clock means exactly what it says: pointing straight left like 9 on a clock.

Likewise, "3 o'clock" means pointing straight to the right. Which is: almost cranked.

Please use the expressions the same way we all do.
Thank you.

I erroneously said 9 o'clock on two posts (#93 and #96), brain farting, actually meaning 3 o'clock. Yes, I do know the difference. Doesn't mean my brain always perfectly uses that knowledge!

Given the context, 3 o'clock would have made no sense, but still my fault for the confusion.
 
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Now I will hazard a guess why your cab died: you say you had the treble at 10 o'clock, by which we now know you meant cranked. With the treble cranked and the tweeter disabled you were straining your 15" cone horribly.

No. See my post above. I brain farted on "9 o'clock" on a few posts. Treble was dialed *down* to 10 o'clock.

I just checked all my posts in the thread, and only #93 and #96 (both an exchange with you, both posted today) have the mistake.

I did shoot a pic right after the speaker popped. Will post.
 
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I dis like this post as I believe you missed the faliure mode. It's not the melting point of copper, it's insulating enamal coating. That is you have to worry about. The highest rating I have seen is 250 degree Celsius. That's two fifths the temperature of the copper. I have also seen glass wound copper in motors which means even hotter running motors. (Before, you question the ratio, ask your self should the ratio be based on absolute temperature or relative temperature?)
Point taken I am retired and don't know what the temperatures of the adhesives are today for all the palarva they talk I thought these modern high power driver's would have glue and voice coil formers that would continue to provide support and insulation to a much higher temperature today?.:-)X
 
Looks like gain was higher than I thought from memory: 8:30, not 7:30. I set it up for clean but loud to start. Little input blinky wasn't lighting up when playing; I was specifically watching for that. Tone sounded loud and clear, but a bit "thin" and trebly/clattery *for my taste* (perhaps not for most people). The "clatter" might have been largely or partly from the brand new strings. I was gonna dial in some more dirt/less master and roll off some more treble momentarily.

Bass was a Fender AV '64 Jazz on the bass pickup, volume and tone full up. Strings were 52–110 flats. I was plucking with my fingers.

...and if you must know, I was playing Peter Gunn in E. Same thing I often play to initially set up an amp.

This pic is how *not* to set your PF-800/PF-115HE, folks!

IMG_5454.JPG


IMG_5453.JPG
 
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Volume is basically air displacement. The more the total cone area, the more air gets moved. You need to keep the cone size reasonable due to the physics in the equation. There’s a practical limit to how big you can economically make them. So four or more 10s became the winning combination for high volume bass. That kept things tight but still pushed air.
Sometimes I feel some need to be a little bit science nitpicking.
Noved air volume means nothing but moved air volume in any regards just to perceive (audible) loudness cause SPL is the derivaton of air particle velocity rather than moved air voluime.
For example a gust of wind moves lots of air volume but the moved air is only audible if the moved air moves the leaves of a tree or anything else that does produce audible SPL.
Moved air volume on its own does NOT automatically produce audible SPL.
 
Yeah watts mean squat.

I can blow my 1100 watt Epifani cab with my 30W Ashdown LB30 if I go at it too hard.

At 2 or 3 o'clock on the master and an occasional blink on tuje input gain you were giving it to that cab pretty hard.

If you think that a 400W cab can handle a 400W head wide open... or even close... you were misinformed.

30 watts into a 1100 W cab is 'underpowering' - it's the most dangerous thing in the world. 1 watt into that cab would immediately blow it up. If you had a 1100 watt head, never turn down the input gain and master volume from 10, otherwise you're underpowering it, thereby running a risk of serious damage. :)

Heck, I think if a loudspeaker is rated at 400 watts, I has to be able to handle 400 watts. If it's a bass cab, it must be able to take 400 watts of normal bass signal for hours non stop. Otherwise it's useless. I am not talking about square wave or white noise.

Otherwise I don't see the point in having any power ratings at all.
 
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Heck, I think if a loudspeaker is rated at 400 watts, I has to be able to handle 400 watts. If it's a bass cab, it must be able to take 400 watts of normal bass signal for hours non stop. Otherwise it's useless. I am not talking about square wave or white noise.

Otherwise I don't see the point in having any power ratings at all.

My thinking as well. But that's not how it is done.
 
IMHO that EQ is sending a lot of low end to the speaker, especially with the mid range voicing set on #1 and the ultra low switch engaged. Also the mids are boosted pretty good, so obviously the speaker couldn't handle it. That said, I still think something may have happened to the speaker before you took it home, whether it was pushed really hard in the store or had the levels way up and someone unplugged a bass without muting the amp thus trying to launch the driver out of the cab, because those settings don't seem necessarily extreme.
 
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