Kala UBass Megathread, Part 7

[davewave]

With the adjustable bridge are you able to get the Pyramid tapes to intonate? How high up the neck? I tried them on my fretted ubass and found they wouldn't even intonate on lower frets.

Yes, the adjustable string length makes all the difference.
Like you, I found the Pyramids unusable otherwise.

How high up the neck?
The harmonic and fretted note at the 12th fret match, which is how I learned to adjust string length.
I'm fooling around with the note for note transcription of Jack Bruce's part from Apostrophe that hits fret 19.
My playing is crap, but at least it's not so out of tune that it hurts my ears.

Maybe somebody smarter than me would like to explain the physics of why fat bass strings need a longer length for good intonation.
I had an experienced, well-respected guitar tech argue with me that it shouldn't be necessary.
All I know is Leo Fender made bridges the way he did for good reasons.

 

[nordicjazz]

My first Ubass in the house! Spruce top/FL. After two weeks setteling in, I notice that the E-string is "dead" both acoustic and through the amp. I assume that this is not a pickup or bridge issue, but rather the string itself? Contacted Kala CA, but since this is a Chinese model purchased in Europe, they couldn´t do anything.

This issue has probably been up earlier in this forum, but do any of you with much more experience have some advise?

 

[mrufino1]

That sounds very much like the pickup. If it's not sitting perfectly flat in the channel or not getting enough pressure in one spot then you're going to get a string that sounds dead.

Try wiggling the bridge piece a little. Also, I'm not sure what type of pickup they use on that model, but if it's a wooden saddle and then there is a piezo cable running underneath that saddle in a channel, make sure the cable reaches all the way to the end of the channel (and maybe slightly extra). The very tip of the cable is not as sensitive and will do exactly what you described under the E (or the B on a 5 string). Little, miniscule changes make a big difference, so play around with it.

 

[nordicjazz]

That sounds very much like the pickup. If it's not sitting perfectly flat in the channel or not getting enough pressure in one spot then you're going to get a string that sounds dead.

Try wiggling the bridge piece a little. Also, I'm not sure what type of pickup they use on that model, but if it's a wooden saddle and then there is a piezo cable running underneath that saddle in a channel, make sure the cable reaches all the way to the end of the channel (and maybe slightly extra). The very tip of the cable is not as sensitive and will do exactly what you described under the E (or the B on a 5 string). Little, miniscule changes make a big difference, so play around with it.

Thank you! This one of the new models with the black bridge/pickup. Since the string is dead even when played unplugged, I assumed it was the string. I will however unstring and see if I can loosen the bridge. Seems to be very thight fitted. No wiggling room at all.

 

[mrufino1]

Thank you! This one of the new models with the black bridge/pickup. Since the string is dead even when played unplugged, I assumed it was the string. I will however unstring and see if I can loosen the bridge. Seems to be very thight fitted. No wiggling room at all.

I missed the part about it happening acoustically. That's strange, I can't think of how one of the pahoehoe strings would be dead, they don't really work that way, but it's possible. What if you took the A string and put it there just to see if it's something with the string. That's a very strange issue. Are you able to find another set of strings to see if it's that?

I'm not saying to loosen the bridge, just to reseat the pickup and saddle and try wiggling the saddle a little, it's very sensitive. However, that really applies to the amplified sound, not acoustic.

One other thought, how many wraps of string are around the post? If it's more than 2 maybe you're not getting enough downward pressure across the nut? With the pahoehoes they stretch a lot, you'll have to cut them shorter a few times as they settle in so that there's only 2 wraps around the post.

And kala can't give any support? I love my u bass but that company becomes more disappointing to me the longer I play their instruments. Quality control is not very good. I've learned that they are not interested in my input into any issues either.

 

[KohanMike]

I wonder it the nut for the E string is not cut properly, maybe that's the problem. To me the Kala bass ukes are not worth the money, for those prices, I say get a Gold GT MicroBass and get a set of Road Toad Pahoehoe strings, but for a much lower price, I recommend the Rondomusic.com bass ukes, both acoustic and solid body, though they tend to need under saddle adjustment as well, but even paying for that and a set of Pahoehoe, they're pretty good and less costly than a Kala U-bass.

 

[Gorn]

It's easy to twist a pahoehoe on installation.

 

[nordicjazz]

I missed the part about it happening acoustically. That's strange, I can't think of how one of the pahoehoe strings would be dead, they don't really work that way, but it's possible. What if you took the A string and put it there just to see if it's something with the string. That's a very strange issue. Are you able to find another set of strings to see if it's that?

It is certainly strange. It sounds like an old rubber band you stretch between your fingers...
The string has two turns as recommended, and I cannot see anything wrong with the nut. Anyway, I will receive a Aquila thunder reds set soon and replace the original pahoehoe. I know there might be some trouble with the nut, but anyway, I can detect if the problem is the string OR the bridge/pickup.

These Chinese ukes seems to be of good quality, but you never know what is under the hood... I have heard many nice things about these instruments and it seems like a winning formula. The bass is easy played and very well intonated, but if the electronics are causing trouble, it is no keeper for sure.

 

[nordicjazz]

It's easy to twist a pahoehoe on installation.

You mean if you hand-wrap the string?

 

[Gorn]

You mean if you hand-wrap the string?

I guess. Or if you're using the tuner only to wrap around the post. Either way you can twist in the initial stretch and then the string only plunks like it's dead.

 

[1stnamebassist]

The Paehoehoe E string is no heavy hitter acoustically anyway, but try what Gorn said about a twisted string. And as kohanmike said if the string is tight at all in the nut it will kill it. On a side note I recently switched to Thundereds also and I love them! No nut change required as advertised. It's the only string besides Paehoehoes that I can stand on the Ubass. I dusted them once with powder and I have no problem with sticky string syndrome which plagued the Thunderguts and Silver Rumblers.

 

[nordicjazz]

I guess. Or if you're using the tuner only to wrap around the post. Either way you can twist in the initial stretch and then the string only plunks like it's dead.

This was indeed a useful tip! These rubber strings tend to twist way more than regular bass strings. So - In combination with a poorly set up saddle, this seems to be the problem.

The E-string was (factory mounted) with two lenghtwise twists, and the saddle/pickup did not connect with the bottom of the slot in the bridge on the E side. The bass sounds good now!

I guess many U bass players with new China basses may experience similar trouble, so I hope these posts will be helpful for them.

 

[1stnamebassist]

Glad you got it sorted out. If you go the Thunderreds route search around for the best deal price wise. They can be all over the place.

 

[Dr. Cheese]

Looking at this video, it appears the California model has a longer scale. I see the string spacing s nice and the B string is clear.

 

[1stnamebassist]

I believe the scale length is about two inches longer.

 

[mrufino1]

5 string California is 23" scale. Very comfortable

 

[Dr. Cheese]

5 string California is 23" scale. Very comfortable

Is the import five 23" too?

 

[mrufino1]

Is the import five 23" too?

No, the "important" 5 is 21" scale, or whatever the scale of the 4 string is. Ha! But I will say, the 23" scale makes a really nice difference in feel. The 5 neck is very flat (shallow front to back) and wide too, which I love. The Sub (or important one as you say!) is $500 and you can buy the parts to build the Cali for the same price, shouldn't be hard to put together.
I've never tried a sub Kala though, so I can't speak to how comfortable either is or how they sound.

 

[Dr. Cheese]

No, the "important" 5 is 21" scale, or whatever the scale of the 4 string is. Ha! But I will say, the 23" scale makes a really nice difference in feel. The 5 neck is very flat (shallow front to back) and wide too, which I love. The Sub (or important one as you say!) is $500 and you can buy the parts to build the Cali for the same price, shouldn't be hard to put together.
I've never tried a sub Kala though, so I can't speak to how comfortable either is or how they sound.

Thanks for the info. That California U-bass looks great. I may just stick with the one I already have for now.

 

[nordicjazz]

Glad you got it sorted out. If you go the Thunderreds route search around for the best deal price wise. They can be all over the place.

OK.. Got the new set of Thunder reds (last one in Europe I guess..). The bass instantly sounded much better, and all previous issues disappeared. Much more defined and possibly more electric bass sound. The strings are easy to play. Know that some find them sticky, but rubbing your nose will sort that out .