I've owned 6 or 7 Lakland 5 strings, all either 55-02's or 55-94. The last couple (a 55-94 and a 55-02) suffered from a lack of string height adjustment on the G string. With the saddle all the way down, I couldn't achieve better than 3.5 mm. I contacted Lakland about the 55-94, and their response was to shim the neck. For a USA-made bass costing several thousand dollars, I didn't think that was an acceptable solution. I found a used custom 55-94 on Guitar Center last week, and was hoping-praying-that it wouldn't suffer from the same issue. This one is the worst yet. Four of the five saddles have no adjustment downward left, and the middle string is nearly there. This bass was $3500 used, I'm sure a bit more brand new. It looks great, sounds great - but it's going back. Has anyone else experienced this issue with Laklands?
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Tell us more about the status of the necks. Lakland can take a pretty straight neck. How much relief do you have in the necks? That said, even with a pretty straight neck I have buried the saddle under the G string on every Lakland I’ve owned. Having an almost straight neck helps though.
songwriter21
I have an obsession for wood. The musical kind.
I was just never really impressed with the brand, whether Skyline or full-blown USA. I think they're one of the most overrated brands around, next to Ernie Ball. My Kiesel and Schecter crush them both.
The need to shim the neck or not depends on the setup and the action height desired, regardless of the brand or how much the instrument cost or not. Your needs might dictate the need for a shim. Lakland doesn't know how you prefer your action set up, so it wouldn't make sense for them to add it. And Lakland is far, far from being the only expensive instruments that owners may need to shim. I must say that out of the 6 Mike Lulls I've owned, including the 2 I have now, I've never had the need to add shims. I'll also say that I prefer a bit higher action than some because I have a kinda moderate stroke and I need the extra height to avoid buzzing (which I'm used to). So for me to need to add shims to some basses was extraordinary, but not unheard of, I guess.
It matter not what brand is involved. You have two choices here. You can keep looking for that elusive instrument that will set up the way you desire. Or you can add a shim to the neck pocket. It's that simple.
(to continue my yelling to get off the lawn, I don't recall seeing any questions or statements regarding the quality of Lakland basses nor an invitation to comment as such...)
(oh, since we went there, I've played Schectors and Kiesels. Nuh Uh. Not at all)
It matter not what brand is involved. You have two choices here. You can keep looking for that elusive instrument that will set up the way you desire. Or you can add a shim to the neck pocket. It's that simple.
(to continue my yelling to get off the lawn, I don't recall seeing any questions or statements regarding the quality of Lakland basses nor an invitation to comment as such...)
(oh, since we went there, I've played Schectors and Kiesels. Nuh Uh. Not at all)
Needing to add a shim is not a defect. It's simply another part of a comprehensive setup.
Lakland's website states "Our instruments are set in the factory at (5/64″ under the G-string) (5.5/64 under the E-string) (6/64 under the B-string)." I can't lower either high or low side under 9/64" so I guess I'll keep looking for that "elusive" bass that doesn't need to be shimmed to meet factory specs...
In my experience, this happens frequently. What i usually do is pull the G string saddle and file down the bottom several thousands of an inch that way it won't bottom out on the plate when you drop the saddle height.
Get one of those nice full-size Stew Mac .5 shims and be done with it. I guarantee many high end basses like Alleva Coppola, Sadowsky, and Fender Custom Shop come with shims installed.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...usg=AOvVaw2V-JrD3dXg6mp_ay2c5b8g&opi=89978449
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...usg=AOvVaw2V-JrD3dXg6mp_ay2c5b8g&opi=89978449
I have shimmed almost every bass I've owned with the exception of a Dingwall that doesn't need it as it's setup is solid (haven't taken it's neck off, may have one already). I don't find that it's something that affects the tone so it's just always been an option when dialing in the perfect setup. I'm picky and like it to the deck so I just sort of accept it. Of course, I find doing setups therapeutic so I don't mind spending a day really dialing it all in. Plus it just needs to be done once.
Would it be nice that at X number of dollars you don't need to do Y things? Sure. But I'm not sure I'd go through the trouble of a whole different instrument just to avoid shimming. It might've even been able to achieve factory specs at the shop. I know that during the year my doors will go from opening and closing perfectly fine for half the year, and one of them has been catching on the corner during the summer. I blame the moisture of my evaporative cooler. I know a bass isn't the same as a door, but I think it's fair to say that wood isn't 100% static and stable. Otherwise we wouldn't need to do adjustments as the seasons change.
Refusing to add a shim on an otherwise good bass is cutting off your nose to spite your face.
Hahahahaha!
I faced the same issue on one of my Sadowsky.
I did shim the neck by myself with a plastic card.
It took me 20 minutes.
I even got congratulations from Roger Sadowsky himself when I posted it on his Facebook page.
It did not change the tone at all, not even a bit.
I must find the video were Roger Sadowsky explains hot to do this.....
The website also states the relief and how that is measured and set up. If your relief does not match their specifications, don't go ranting about not being able to meet said specifications.
If you can't meet specifications with correct relief, a method for improvement has been given: shimming.
If you refuse to follow this advise: tough luck.
Shimming the neck is a standard tool as part of a setup, meant to address exactly this situation. It in no way indicates a defect or anything else. Choosing not to use a shim is throwing away a critical tool in the toolbox.
I have had 3 Lakland’s and all 3 are great with very low action. One could be a hair lower to suit me, I’m picky. Most people would say it’s fine. I have no problem shimming the one ever so slightly. I am thoroughly pleased with my Laklands and the service I get from them.
It's a bolt on. They're designed to be shimmed.
I've shimmed Laklands, Sadowskys, a couple of Roscoe's, a Mayones, several USA G&Ls.... no big deal.
Loosen the strings and check the screws holding that bridge down. It's hard to tell from the photos, but bridge screws can loosen over time, causing the bridge to lift a little bit. Even Smith and Fodera recommend checking the bridge screws at every string change.
You should see the shim I put in my $5k Kubicki
