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Learner P into Player P/MM

Hey Guys, wanted to share a few pics of a recent project bass. I am not a P-bass player, I've not been able to dial one in for a sound that I personally enjoy. But I was feeling the itch to try a P again. I started looking online for inexpensive P's and then remembered a company that made P & J copies that had a split 2x2 headstock called Kona. The bass stuck out to me as it was a classic P body shape and layout but looked interesting due to it's split headstock and it's cheap enough to try and if it sucks I have a new wall decoration.

I ordered up a Kona P copy, in fact it came as a learners box kit.

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It arrives, open it up and sit down to give it a test drive. The first thing that grabs me is the deep C cut the neck, which is actually my preference. I love thick necks and can't stand the thin cut speed necks. The more I play it the more comfortable it gets so I'm thinking okay, I can work with this and I order up some replacement hardware and dress up pieces.

First bits to go are the tuners in favor of a set of Hipshot tuners. Next the pickguard is replaced with a copper 50's style P pickguard. Also install a set of Duncan SPB-2 pickups I've had in my spare parts drawer for years.

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I file the edges of the frets, set it up and install a set of a Dunlop Super Bright strings. At the same time there is talk a new music project amungst friends, a covers bar band. Something I haven't done in years but could be fun. I take my modified Kona P to a rehearsal and then to a gig. It's a solid, fun little bass that handled the abuse. There is just one problem...that P tone. I found myself twisting knobs and EQ's all night hunting for the sweet spot which to my ears just never got dialed in.

I'm looking at the bass on the wall one morning and I go "This thing needs a MM pickup", I dig out a Duncan SMB4A MM pickup from the junk drawer and the mock up make's it look amazing.

Layout the pickup housing and scribe exactly where this pickup will sit:

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While things are apart I also decide to install wood inserts for the neck & bridge.

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I give myself a C+ for the install, it got a little sloppy and claimed some of the paint around the pickup edge. Some black nail polish and cleaning up and it's good enough.

I spent some time mixing and matching wiring and coils, series & parallel, in & out of phase to see what combination seemed to work best. At first I started with all coils in parallel, then I took the south most coil of the MM out of the curcuit. It sounded good but I found myself needing the tone knob rolled off like 95% to tame those highs. Then one day I wire it for P-pups in series (normal) and MM pickup in series, then the two pups wired together parallel and ran the wiring straight to the jack for wide open throttle. That combo sonically woke up the bass.

It seems the MM pup is the dominant sound source, the instrument has shifted to a mid's and high's bias. Playing/plucking over the P-pups shifts that bias back towards the "P" bass tone range but still has the high end bite. I'll be pickup, pot and cap rolling for a while to further dial things in.

Added a black pinstrip around the headstock to help tie in that otherwise blank neck into the black body:

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Thanks for checking out my story on turning a learner P into a stage worthy P/MM -Mykk
 
First set of pickup rolling, replaced the Duncan SPB-2's with Duncan Quarter Pound SPB-3's, visually a better match with the MM SMB-4A. Sonically... different, tough to say it's better, just different. Also installed a set of Alpha 1M pots set up for V/V. Which is way more versatile then the V/T.

There is a sweet spot right as you roll the MM down a touch from 100%. You can hear the mids do a sweep as you dial the MM back and the bass has this really beautiful presence, fullness and punch. I'm getting really excited to hear what it does in a live environment.

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That is one hot looking bass! How does it sound?

First set of pickup rolling, replaced the Duncan SPB-2's with Duncan Quarter Pound SPB-3's, visually a better match with the MM SMB-4A. Sonically... different, tough to say it's better, just different. Also installed a set of Alpha 1M pots set up for V/V. Which is way more versatile then the V/T.

There is a sweet spot right as you roll the MM down a touch from 100%. You can hear the mids do a sweep as you dial the MM back and the bass has this really beautiful presence, fullness and punch. I'm getting really excited to hear what it does in a live environment.

 
... How does it sound?

Thank you, to my ears with the MM pup dialed back a bit it sounds like the bass tone on A Perfect Circle's Magdalena on Mer De Noms with a touch more percussive zing in the highs. But at both pups full volume it's a brightness that Tony Kanal (No Doubt) and Tim Commerford (Rage Against the Machine) would be proud of.
 
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I am so happy with how the P/MM turned out I started putting together another. Combining two learner basses into one P/MM, this time with EMG-HZ P & MM pups.

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OLP stingray for it's neck:

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Huntington P for it's natural body:

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The MM pup is just mocked in place, I'll finish the route & wiring work this weekend.



There is one critical flaw in the plan. After clearancing the body & pickguard for the Stingray truss rod adjuster the neck bolted in the P body like it was made for it, nice and snug and used the same neck plate and hardware in the same bolt holes. But it bolted down with a 35" scale from nut to saddle, while the frets are spaced for 34" scale. My plan is the take the extra distance out of the neck pocket and move the neck 1" closer to the bridge. Kind of a bummer as that 35" scale feels and looks natural.

When the OLP arrived I noticed the G tuner was a mismatch and didn't seem to fit the neck well. Turned out someone replaced the G-tuner with one from a:

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Swapped out the tuners from another OLP I had in the parts bin and the Rickenbacker tuner is up on Ebay, perhaps find it's way back home to a Ric.
 
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Before cutting into, drill & dremeling the P body I wanted to see how the bass would sound & look by moving the bridge up to compensate for the scale length. I was most curious to see how a P pup sounded being shifted closer to the bridge and in my opinion the 'sweet spot'.

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It did sound good, I also tried another set of P pups I have for some comparisons. This really brought to my attention that the EMG P pups are super dark sounding, something I wasn't expecting.

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With the bridge moved up there was no physical room for the MM pup, so the bass would stay solely a P. But I really felt that having the bridge up higher made the bass appear more 'fake' and looked cheap. So I brought the bridge back down to it's original mounting location, dug out the MM pickup. Cut away the neck pocket to lower the neck into the body, then cut the pickguard for the new neck location:

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Here's the final product, the P/MM with Stingray neck re-loacted for 34" scale.

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Compared to the first P/MM it has a completely different tonal character, it's darker, more mellow and rounded compared to it's Duncan SPB-3 & SMB-4A equip'd brother. It's also got about 3/4 of the output the first P/MM does. I can't say I'm sold on the EMG-HZ passive P & MM pickups, but I do think the blank pickup covers do look sweet in that natural wood body. I'm going to stick it out for now, maybe find a string that sonically matches the character of the bass. I also haven't installed the wood inserts for machine threads in the neck & bridge yet.
 
Tackled the neck & bridge threaded inserts. Also shimmed the heal of the neck to allow for bridge saddle adjustment for string height.

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Also added another EMG master volume pot for a true V/V/T



Ran into an issue with the EMG PHZ pickups and MM pickup, when wired normal they were out of phase with each other. The MM pickup has a shielding ground built into the connector at the pot so I instead switched the polarity at the P pickups. Come to find out the P pickups must also have some ground shielding internal as the bass was noisy and sensitive to RF & cell phone chatter. I resolved the issue by fishing the shielding ground lead out of the MM pickup and running it separately to the jack allowing me to reverse the polarity of the MM pickup at the pot and plug the P-pups in like normal. Problem solved, as quiet as can be now.

Just a few more minor details, straplock buttons and headstock decal and this bass is wrapped up. I also debuted it at a jam last night, not only did it sound good in the room & mix it felt comfortable and is light enough to wear all night on stage.

 
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As an experiment I swapped the Duncan SPB-3's & SMB-4A over to the natural wood bass. Totally tonally woke up the bass...like drastically. I really wanted to like the EMG's, I had a jazz with active EMG's and it was glorious. But these passive EMG's in this config in this bass was a total fail. Now to order another set of SPB-3's and SMB-4A's for the black bass, sigh.... lol.

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Really fun thread. Thank you. I was looking for information on adding a MM style pup to a bass and here you have done two!

Two questions. It looks like you drilled north from the MM pup to the existing P cavity to wire up the MM. is that correct?

Also I am super scared of taking a dremel to a bass. I see how you scored the black bass for the route but how did do that on the natural? Once you have the trace outlined how do you dig it out? Just keep dremeling? How did you ensure you stay inside the trace? How did you keep from going too deep once you were in the middle of the Pup? I think that is my big worry. Any other watch outs on that process?

That was more than two questions.... more like two buckets of questions.

Thanks again.