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Lefty Fretless Jazz Bass

Hello all,

Long-time lurker, first-time poster! I joined several months ago, but just haven't posted anything — until today that is. I was nudged to post this project here so I thought, "what the heck?" and just went with it. Thanks, JIO.

What you are about to see is my first attempt at a DIY bass. This is not just any bass, though; it's a left-handed fretless. Being a lefty, my options for "cool guitars" has always been pretty limited, as music shops usually only have a small collection of lefty axes that are off in a corner and probably get more attention from dust mites than customers. I've seen the occasional lefty fretless on eBay, but it seems as though something about whatever I see just isn't what I want — be it a crappy brand, the wrong finish, etc. As such, I decided that I would quit messing around with trying to find a fretless and just build one of my own.

I hooked up with a machinist who runs a storefront on eBay. He offered to cut me a blank Fender Jazz Bass style body and neck for a very reasonable price. Here are a few of the first images I ever saw of my new project, which were taken at his shop:

FretlessBuildPic01_zps481fcae6.jpg
FretlessBuildPic02_zpsc1e69182.jpg
FretlessBuildPic03_zpsd4b80afb.jpg
IMG_3055_zps5c9c7f98.jpg


The body is ash, and the neck and fretboard are both maple. The block inlays are made of pearloid.

Turnaround time was pretty quick, and the bass was made just how I asked. There were a couple little issues here and there, but overall I am pleased with the product he puts out, and I'm already thinking of a new project — for which I will be having him cut me the neck. That will come later, though, so back to this build…

My initial inspiration came from the Larry Graham Moon bass, which you can [Invalid or Expired Link Removed], or here:

JJ4withSubtleBackgroundandOuterGlow_zpscef24176.png


From that initial design concept, the project kind of went in a few different directions and has had some influences along the way. The Marcus Miller Jazz bass with its maple neck and pearl block inlays is a look I definitely like:

MarcusMillerJazzBass_zps7f7476c1.png


I also found via Google Image search that someone had taken a Marcus Miller Jazz bass and pulled the frets:

FretlessNeckwithWhiteBlocks01_zps46f62a87.jpg
FretlessNeckwithWhiteBlocks02_zps559e3758.jpg
FretlessNeckwithWhiteBlocks03_zps1b63e094.jpg


Once I saw that, I was hooked and I knew this is what I wanted for this project.

When I first conceptualized the guitar, I originally had gold hardware in mind, which was largely inspired by Verdine White of Earth, Wind, and Fire (as well as the Larry Graham Moon bass) — even though generally speaking I am not a fan of gold:

VerdineWhiteJamming_zpsb190bad3.jpg


That bass looks pretty rad, but I ended up scrapping the gold hardware idea and went with traditional chrome for everything, as seen in this final render:

1d44b24f-db94-4dce-be4d-d0e023572bf9_zps064879d0.png


I essentially combined the design concepts of what you see in the JJ4 Moon bass with the Marcus Miller Jazz bass. I probably have about 50 renders or so, so I've spent some serious time on this thing. It's going to be Fender Olympic white on the body with matching paint for the headstock. The knobs as seen in the render above are just kind of placeholders for now. I'm thinking I might go with a Telecaster or Stratocaster style knob, but I just haven't decided yet. That'll be a finishing touch for later on.

I have already prepared the body for finishing, but here are a few progress pictures taken along the way...

Sanding:
FretlessBuildPic06-AfterSanding01_zps0143f98f.jpg


More sanding (with semi-mock):
FretlessBuildPic06-AfterSanding02_zpsbb9bd0cc.jpg


As of last night, I applied grain filler to the back of the body:
FretlessBuildPic07-GrainFilling01_zpsfe640bcb.jpg

After a little bit of a wait time (maybe 30 minutes or so) I went ahead and scraped off the excess:

FretlessBuildPic08-GrainFilling02_zps78651100.jpg

(note: this is the most I've used my Albertson's club card since I signed up for the membership)

I am not 100% sure whether I'm doing this right, but after researching a ton on the subject, I think I am close. I am extremely anal with these types of things, so I'll make sure that it is right in the end. This is actually my second attempt at grain filling, as the first time I did it I just know that I applied it incorrectly. I sanded off that coat and started anew last night, which is what you see in the pics above. I definitely feel better about this attempt.

Tonight I sanded this side and I think it's coming along well:
IMG_0258_zpsd22df345.jpg
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I thought the bass was smooth before the grain filler, but after I sanded this puppy to 400 grit smoothness, the thing is like glass. I think it's working out. In some of the pics directly above, you can see some of the rougher spots that required a bit more grain filler; this is particularly apparent in the belly cut. When I first received the bass, this area was ROUGH. The luthier who gave me pointers really stressed that I needed to work on that area. Nailed it! (fingers crossed)

Feeling pretty good about the way the back came out, I took a stab at the front. Here she is, post-scraping:
IMG_0261_zps928d471e.jpg


I'll sand it tomorrow. One area of concern that I didn't really capture really well in these images is the tail of the body, near where the strap button will go. I believe I will need to be careful around there, too.
 
I am going for a glossy finish of Fender Olympic white for the body and headstock, and then an uncolored satin finish for the neck. The local luthier here where I live will be finishing the fretboard surface and we will be deciding the way we do that a little later on. Below you can see my finishing supplies, all of which were purchased at Reranch:

FinishingSupplies_zps6fe357dd.jpg


Hardware and electronics are completely picked out with the exception of the knobs and the all-important pickups...

Fender high-mass bridge:
Bridge_zpsa3802207.jpg


Fender tuning machines by Schaller:
TuningMachine02_zps87a6f5f2.jpg


Fender string guide:
StringGuide_zps5d824eab.jpg


I was able to get some lefty-taper pots from Bayou Cables, similar to what you see Link Removed. The guy who helped me there was super-cool. His name is Butch and I highly recommend Bayou Cables. I had him prepare my set with just a tiny bit more wire excess than usual just in case the pot holes weren't cut to spec.

Please feel free to watch my progress as I get this baby completed. I am hoping to have some paint on the body within a week or so.

Suggestions, comments, etc. are welcome. Please keep it clean and positive, though!
 
That grain looks fantastic!
Thanks. Unfortunately the back isn't so hot (at least in my opinion). If my luck/skill have anything to do with it, the grain on this bass will actually be completely gone by the time the project has been completed. I'm going for a gloss finish of Olympic white.

My next bass, however, will have a nicely figured maple top, and its grain/figure will be something to behold.
 
Have you considered applying your own BR identity (as in your avatar) to the hs? I don't want to start a "why a Fender logo" row as it really doesn't matter unless selling, but I could see that looking good. "Fender" always looks odd on a left handed neck to me - a reverse flow thing.
 
The prices on that machinist's shop are excellent! If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay to have the lefty stuff done custom? I've been dreaming of another Warmoth for a while but this may be an awesome option, too!
 
Thanks. Unfortunately the back isn't so hot (at least in my opinion). If my luck/skill have anything to do with it, the grain on this bass will actually be completely gone by the time the project has been completed. I'm going for a gloss finish of Olympic white.

My next bass, however, will have a nicely figured maple top, and its grain/figure will be something to behold.

I like the grain on the back. It's rough, and authentic-looking. It gives your instrument a unique quality. I say whitewash instead of Olympic White, but what do I know?
 
Have you considered applying your own BR identity (as in your avatar) to the hs? I don't want to start a "why a Fender logo" row as it really doesn't matter unless selling, but I could see that looking good. "Fender" always looks odd on a left handed neck to me - a reverse flow thing.

Why not a mirror Fender? No one ever thinks of that! When people take photos, they'll think they flipped the image.
 
Have you considered applying your own BR identity (as in your avatar) to the hs? I don't want to start a "why a Fender logo" row as it really doesn't matter unless selling, but I could see that looking good. "Fender" always looks odd on a left handed neck to me - a reverse flow thing.
I like that idea, and had actually toyed with it. I feel you on the reverse flow thing, and I don't think I'll be putting Fender on the headstock — mostly because I don't want to promote it as something that it is not, since it is technically not a Fender instrument. I definitely have not settled on anything for the headstock yet and am still trying to figure out what to do with it, so the logo might be as good of a call as anything.

I am almost certainly going to have a custom neck plate with the logo; there are places all over the internet that will do this inexpensively, but you can have it done for under $20 from eBay sellers. I purchased the F neck plate as seen here because I needed to confirm/fix a couple things on the body.
 
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The prices on that machinist's shop are excellent! If you don't mind me asking, what did you pay to have the lefty stuff done custom? I've been dreaming of another Warmoth for a while but this may be an awesome option, too!
The body was around $100, and the neck was a bit more — closer to $300. The neck was a bit more than he normally charges because it was pretty custom and different from what he usually does. Left-handed, fretless, maple/maple, block inlays are all kind of unique things, especially when combined together.

You could get a much simpler or more standard issue neck under $200 from him very easily, as you may have seen in his eBay store. He comes in well short of Warmoth pricing, that's for sure. If you do contact him, please tell him I sent you.

Caveat: you will need to put in some serious elbow grease to get it ready for paint. I believe one of the premiums you pay when buying from Warmoth is they're closer to being ready to paint. This was disclosed upon purchasing, though.

If I could do it over again I probably would have purchased a maple body or something with tighter grain that is generally easier to work with and can be prepped and painted with less work, but this experience with the ash body has taught me a lot about the art of guitar-building and woodworking in general so there's been some good value in that. I'm a major DIY guy and consider myself to be a pretty decent craftsman, so this is more just weapons in my arsenal now. Also, I've now got the major bug to build another!
 
I like the grain on the back. It's rough, and authentic-looking. It gives your instrument a unique quality. I say whitewash instead of Olympic White, but what do I know?
Why not a mirror Fender? No one ever thinks of that! When people take photos, they'll think they flipped the image.

Awesome ideas. Thanks! I'm a big believer in taking in and considering any and all ideas no matter what, because even if I didn't necessarily think of it originally on my own, someone else did and thought it was at least a little bit of a good idea. I can then add those to my bank of inspirations and thoughts and become a better designer/builder/author (or whatever other subject to which this applies).
 
Have you considered applying your own BR identity (as in your avatar) to the hs? I don't want to start a "why a Fender logo" row as it really doesn't matter unless selling, but I could see that looking good. "Fender" always looks odd on a left handed neck to me - a reverse flow thing.
Here's a little something I cooked up really quickly (this one includes strings, too):
Link Removed

I was also thinking about rotating the logo 90º and putting it centered to the neck, and right up by the string nut, but the strings will cover it with that configuration. I cannot seem to get it to look right in the area of the headstock where it kind of angles out (i.e. where Fender usually puts their text decals).
 

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Here's a little something I cooked up really quickly (this one includes strings, too):
Link Removed

I was also thinking about rotating the logo 90º and putting it centered to the neck, and right up by the string nut, but the strings will cover it with that configuration. I cannot seem to get it to look right in the area of the headstock where it kind of angles out (i.e. where Fender usually puts their text decals).

Now you're talking' - that looks great!
 
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I like the grain on the back. It's rough, and authentic-looking. It gives your instrument a unique quality. I say whitewash instead of Olympic White, but what do I know?

It may be somewhat different, but how about Oly whitewash on the back (I too like how organic the grain looks) and solid Oly on the front/edges? (like a burst/halo on the back) It could look really cool. I'm big on doing something unorthodox. Not because I'm bored, but I'm more of a "of the moment" sensibility. The back grain is special (the front- yawn). Celebrate it! Or is it to be a secret buried treasure? That can work for me conceptually. ;)

Hey mellowman - are you bustin' a Phosphorescent pose? ;)
 
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It may be somewhat different, but how about Oly whitewash on the back (I too like how organic the grain looks) and solid Oly on the front/edges? (like a burst/halo on the back) It could look really cool. I'm big on doing something unorthodox. Not because I'm bored, but I'm more of a "of the moment" sensibility. The back grain is special (the front- yawn). Celebrate it! Or is it to be a secret buried treasure? That can work for me conceptually. ;)

Hey mellowman - are you bustin' a Phosphorescent pose? ;)
Hmmm…I think I see where you're going with this. Something about that back just looks too raunchy to me; it almost reminds me of a skid mark in underwear. It could also just be that I've been looking at it for too long. If it were centered and symmetrical, maybe I'd be singing a different tune.

Let's go with "secret buried treasure" for this one.
 
I got the front sanded last night. I captured a couple images that I think highlight the level of grain in this body. Have a look:
FrontGrainFilling01_zps40f55412.jpg
FrontGrainFilling02_zps852c221e.jpg
FrontGrainFilling03_zpsf1682e59.jpg


In the image of the tail of the body, you can see a heavily-grained area that I think I will be able to recover just fine. It actually feels pretty smooth right now.

I am thinking that I may need to give this side another application of grain filler, though, just to be safe. Is that normal?