Lemon Oil

[rkejeepin]

wow, you're pretty useless, huh?

Welcome to having personal experience to back my choice in oils. You can take your immature comments to a thread where whiney kids like yourself play.

Um ok...

I think they were just being goofy and lighthearted rather than immature. Good job on getting all defensive towards their post though.

 

[The_Hat_Guy]

Mod edit: The Hat Guy - please simply report the post if you feel if it is against board rules, and I'll take care of it. Also please remember to show respect to all.

 

[perfektspace6]

Um ok...

I think they were just being goofy and lighthearted rather than immature. Good job on getting all defensive towards their post though.

Humor is such a subtle art.

 

[Tony G]

I use Formby's Lemon Oil Treatment. Got mines at Lowe's or Menards I think, but any good store should have something like it.

I also use Formby's and have so for years without any complaint!

 

[GaryLC]

I also use Formby's and have so for years without any complaint!

Tony,
A couple of my basses bitched like hell when I used Formby's, I'm glad that yours had no complaints!!!

 

[Throckmorten]

I don't know this guy's bona fides but he writes well, basically
damning lemon oil

he recommends "furniture oil", that's probably safe, whatever it is.

But I used something labeled "lemon oil" anyway and my fretboard didn't rot or fall off (so there!). The guitar was 10 yrs old, suffering from benign neglect and the fretboard very dry. The board is in good shape now and I probably won't risk it again.

Fact is, a little light cleaing is probably all you need and a light rub of mineral oil could not hurt.

 

[Seelesauger]

check the fruit juice isle. I work in a gorcery store and its by our apple juice.

 

[Thor]

A guy that used to do my setups in the 80's used to use super fine steel wool to clear out all the fret sweat, then gave it a rub with Tung Oil, let it sit a few minutes and buffed it out with a cloth. The rosewood necks felt awesome after that, gave them a nice 'touch'.

Google Tung Oil, there was a guy on the Real Milk paint testimonial page that had used it on his Warwick and loved it.

Great stuff.

I am considering finishing a rosewood fretless board
with it completely, the 'Fat over Thin' method, and
once the last layer is buffed, putting roundwound
strings on it. That would rock mwah world.

 

[Steelpulz]

"You can use lemon oil or orange oil on the fingerboard. We use a product called Feed-n-Wax that is a mixture of orange oil and beeswax that we really like. You may be able to find it in your local hardware store or home center."

 

[bassman blue]

ditto to the warwick wax. everytime i've picked up a used bass or cleaned one of my current basses, i use warwick wax on the board. it takes off the dirt, slime and funk... and protects the wood.
personally, i like how it works on fingerboards and necks.

 

[Thor]

"You can use lemon oil or orange oil on the fingerboard. We use a product called Feed-n-Wax that is a mixture of orange oil and beeswax that we really like. You may be able to find it in your local hardware store or home center."

I hear it works wonders on the Dandelions as well.

 

[rkejeepin]

I thought maple boards were lacquered and didn't get any oil - it's not like it's going to penetrate the wood. A mild cleaner is fine for maple, FME.

My squire mod. jazz's fretboard isnt. My Geddy's is though. My squire's neck is filthy.

 

[lowphatbass]

I always clean with a bit of rubbing alcohol and then replenish with something called butcher block oil. It's very light, clear, and food safe which I figure is a good idea since I sweat all over n rub my eyes n what not. I've been doing this for years and years and it's kept all my boards looking and playing great.

 

[62bass]

I always clean with a bit of rubbing alcohol and then replenish with something called butcher block oil. It's very light, clear, and food safe which I figure is a good idea since I sweat all over n rub my eyes n what not. I've been doing this for years and years and it's kept all my boards looking and playing great.

Alcohol is a very good cleaner. Just keep it from getting on real nitro finishes (not used much anymore) and nitro cellelose pickguards like the old tortoise shell ones. On any other finish except shellac it won't hurt anything.

 

[Superpang]

So I just went to the hardware store and got this brand called Circa 1850 Lemon Oil , is it promising or what ?
http://www.swingpaints.com/1803.htm
Heres a link, Thanks for all the input :3

 

[MohawkHarry]

Gerlitz guitar honey works great on dark woods, and Kyser LEM-Oil for the maple. The guitar honey might be hard to find.

 

[62bass]

So I just went to the hardware store and got this brand called Circa 1850 Lemon Oil , is it promising or what ?
http://www.swingpaints.com/1803.htm
Heres a link, Thanks for all the input :3

It's a penetrating, drying oil similar to the tung oil and antique oil finishes sold for furniture work. It soaks into the wood and dries hard. It's more like a thinned out varnish. I doubt there's really any real lemon oil in it, like their tung oil, which has very little tung oil in it.

I've used these products on fingerboards. It waterproofs them to a fair degree. I wouldn't use it on clear maple. They tend to darken with age.

If you want to clean the fingerboard use alcohol or paint thinner (mineral spirits) like Varsol. If you want to make the wood look fresh, use some mineral oil and wipe off the excess. You can also buy the products sold in the music stores if you like spending extra money.

The antique oil finishes, if you use them, will make a mess if you don't wipe them dry, and get them off the frets whatever you do. They're not the best choice for regular maintenance. They're a finish, best suited for furniture refinishing or finishing.

 

[Scott in Dallas]

Since it's worth repeating, DO NOT USE ORANGE OIL on a guitar unless it's just orange scented mineral oil. There is a degreasing oil made from oranges called D'limonene that will eat away paint and adhesives. Check the ingredients before putting anything on your instrument.

Martin's guitar polish is a mix of white mineral oil and processed castor oil and is used on some of the most valuable guitars in the world. If anyone knows more about guitars and tonewoods than Martin I'd be surprised.

 

[62bass]

Since it's worth repeating, DO NOT USE ORANGE OIL on a guitar unless it's just orange scented mineral oil. There is a degreasing oil made from oranges called D'limonene that will eat away paint and adhesives. Check the ingredients before putting anything on your instrument.



Yes, they use the same ingredient in some of the "safe" paint strippers. Also in a hand cleaner product. I have some at home that I clean my hands with after painting or varnishing. It works good for that.

As a paint stripper, it's not very good. Won't touch a factory poly finish, but then, nothing much will. Works, although very slowly, on alkyd paints and varnishes.

Mineral oil is safe. Alcohol will dissolve shellac and lacquer finishes but won't touch oil finishes, or varnish or factory poly finishes. Alcohol will dissolve the nitrocellulose pickguards, the old vintage tortoiseshell ones and the nitro reproductions. I know, because I accidentally got some on mine. I caught it right away and was able to polish out the smudge mark.

Paint thinner, like Varsol, is safe on all the finishes. So is naptha. They might not be all that safe to use at home though. The fumes are not good for you and there is a risk of fire. Naptha is more flammable than paint thinner. You have to watch for sparks with naptha. That's what lighter fluid in Zippo lighters is. It's a great de-greaser though and also will dissolve old wax.

Yes, you probably shouldn't fool around with this stuff unless you know more about it.

Buy the products sold in the music stores if you're worried. Then, if anything goes wrong, you have soimeone to sue.

 

[ETEcarmine]

What about bore oil?