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Let's See Your Hot-Rodded Cheapo Basses!

The red was the latest project. A twin to the green squier 30”


I replaced the tuners with graphtech ratios, made a brass nut, cleaned up the fret ends, swapped in the red pickguard and sanded the gloss off the neck. Full shielding/griunding job (none in cavity to start). Proper set up which involved an hour of filing the nut slots until the intonation on the lower frets was good (of course you have to re-tune, check string height and adjust bridge, re-check truss relief, re-check intonation at 12th between each file attempt on all four strings). Good thing is now that it’s set up properly, the action is low and in the future I should only have to give the truss rod 1/4 turn every 6 months.


The humbuckers are like mud buckers but not muddy. Huge output and heavy sound. Basically sounds like a thunderbird on steroids, but without the thunderbird headstock seeking the ground like it’s made of a white dwarf star.

Similar mods on the green and blue ones. But a Hipshot drop tuner on the green one. View attachment 7453656View attachment 7453657View attachment 7453655
I’d love to take each of these for a spin 🤩 the Rascal seems like a promising platform for tinkerers.
 
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I wound up needing “the cheapest” bass I can possibly get, that isn’t trashed and in the garbage.

I picked up a Mitchell MB-200 for $129 brand-new in the box during a Guitar-a-Thon.
Out of the box, fret sprout was atrocious and I couldn’t get the string height low enough to my liking.
Did a basic fret dressing (also had to massage a couple high frets) and shimmed the neck 0.030”.
Plays GREAT!
I didn’t really like the sound of the original large pole-piece pickups, so I swapped out the bridge pickup with one from an Ibanez TMB-100 I used to have, and the P is the cheapest one I could find on Amazon for $13.
Sounds much better.

Then I decided to swap out the generic Amazon preamp that was in it, and installed a Duncan STC-2BO I had in my parts box.

Sounds really good now.

I am waiting for a set of Artec AlNiCo PJ pickups to see how they’d differ from the ceramics….

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I had some mods made to my Squier Sonic Precision:

Seymour Duncan SPB-1
Hipshot A Style Fender Mount 1 bridge
Tort Pickguard
Tinted the headstock and back of neck
Bone nut

Tuners: I bought some GOTOH gb-350 resolites, but they were too small. Still have the stock tuners whilst I consider alternatives.

View attachment 7452152
I got the GB-350 tuners onto my precision (LHS, next to her Bronco Sister) by leaving the original bushes in:

Back in Black GOTOH bridges and tuners with Emerald Green Simonon Inspired pick guards (thanks Arty Farty Tim)

Precision:
Tonerider The Duke Pickups
Rotosound Jazz 77s
Bourns push pull volume blower and tone cap switch ( 47 / 100 nF)
Wasn't 100% sure on tuners but now love them & much lighter, had to leave in original chrome bushes tho.
Now going to put on La Bella 1954s and try BEAD

Bronco
Musiclilly blade pickup
Ernie Ball Cobalt flats
Bourns push pull volume blower and tone cap switch ( 47 / 100 nF)
Going to try with some Fender 9050s, maybe

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BEFORE
View attachment 3164806

AFTER
View attachment 3164794
Base instrument: Electra X700JB (230 USD) in 2018
Modifications: Gotoh 201B-4 bridge (40 USD), Gotoh GB707 tuning machines (60 USD), Gotoh(?) knobs (10? USD), Lace Aluma-P Alumitone pickup (120 USD); 230 USD total

When I started taking bass seriously again this spring after years of only occasional putzing, I found that my old gear didn't really suit my new ideas about tone, so I set out to find something snarly and dirty when this one crossed my path on reverb. I'd had good experiences with Matsumoku-made instruments from the '80s before, and this one certainly looked the part, so I took a chance on it. I figured the stock pickup would be nothing special, so I ordered the Lace in hopes of building an instrument to really push a burly tube amplifier I hoped to buy down the line (Mesa Buster 1x15). The stock pickup actually wasn't half bad as it turned out, but the Lace was already on the way so I figured I'd go for it. The intonation screws on the stock bridge had been mixed up, so I thought I'd go higher mass with a replacement, but the Gotoh 201 seemed like the only one that would fit, so I didn't go much higher mass. The clover key tuners had gotten sticky and seemed visually out of step with the rest of the instrument, so I opted for Gotoh GB707s which turn easily, look the part of a metal bass, and as it turns out, reduced mass on the headstock sufficiently to eliminate the neck dive I hadn't really even noticed. The plastic volume knob functioned but was damaged, so I had the tech replace both knobs with some black metal knobs (also Gotoh, I think) more in keeping with the look of the instrument. It wasn't a bad instrument when I got it, but with a few tweaks, it has become pretty much everything I want in a bass, and yes it does snarl through the Buster I eventually acquired :bassist:
I made some big moves to the bass that started this thread all those years ago!
IMG_0496.jpeg


I acquired a new DiMarzio Model P pickup and had the body routed for an additional split pickup half to either side of the existing rout in the standard (i.e. Fender Precision) position and orientation. The new pickup went in toward the neck, the old pickup (an early ‘80s DiMarzio clone by Schaller, to the best of my knowledge) shifted toward the bridge, and a 4-way rotary switch replaced the tone knob.

I can now select:
•reverse-P with the bass half in the standard position and the treble half toward the neck à la Mark Hoppus (“neck position“)
•standard position and orientation (“middle position”)
•reverse-P with the bass half in the approximate Stingray position and the treble half in the standard position (“bridge position”)
•all four halves together (“everything”)

Going into this latest operation, I found the original pickup in the original position a bit darker and less defined than I generally like, even after trying stainless steel roundwound strings and 1M pots on both the volume and tone knobs. I hoped this new arrangement would get me at least one setting with more high end and definition, and predicted the bridge position and everything setting would get me there, with darker options in the middle and neck positions.

As it turns out, all four options seem like improvements for my purposes! :hyper: The neck position doesn’t sound dark at all, if anything maybe a bit scooped relative to the middle position, with the bridge position perhaps a bit more mid-focused; all three of those settings provide excellent, slightly different takes on an aggressive Precision sound. Not too surprisingly, the “everything” setting sounds quite different from the others, but not quite in the way I expected. I did expect something like a thicker 50/50 P/J blend, and it does sound like that; but somehow this ended up the … darkest? … bassiest? …loudest? … least defined? setting of the new arrangement 🤔 I do like the “everything” setting, but it sounds more like switching on some kind of pedal than merely switching pickups.

Anyhow, I’m really glad I took this latest chance on this cheapo, and I’m pleased with the results.
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I own a Cliff Bordwell, Shawn May, Warrior, Muckelroy and an AO 60s jazz with Fralins, but I bought an Intro series Sterling....hear me out!

The bones of those basses are good! Amaranth aka purpleheart is an outstanding fingerboard wood, and paired with a light poplar body sounds GREAT! All of the ones I have picked up have had pretty level frets. I found a light one in blue with a good neck, changed out the tuners for Hipshot I got for a great price, added Dunlop Strap Locks, sanded down the back of the neck and added a smooth tung oil finish, changed out the pickup for one with 4 conductor wiring and added a series/parallel/single switch, which is like 3 basses in one switch! Under 150 in changes, and now I have a KILLER lightweight Stingray with a jazz nut width, 3 way switching (without the idiotic Strat-style switch they used on US Sterlings), capable of criminally low action and GREAT tone!

Last change will be a well-cut bone nut and possibly an aged pearl guard. But I paid 199 for the bass, so for 350 I have a bass that plays, feels and sounds like a 2000 Stingray with a more comfortable neck. 100% WIN!
 
I own a Cliff Bordwell, Shawn May, Warrior, Muckelroy and an AO 60s jazz with Fralins, but I bought an Intro series Sterling....hear me out!

The bones of those basses are good! Amaranth aka purpleheart is an outstanding fingerboard wood, and paired with a light poplar body sounds GREAT! All of the ones I have picked up have had pretty level frets. I found a light one in blue with a good neck, changed out the tuners for Hipshot I got for a great price, added Dunlop Strap Locks, sanded down the back of the neck and added a smooth tung oil finish, changed out the pickup for one with 4 conductor wiring and added a series/parallel/single switch, which is like 3 basses in one switch! Under 150 in changes, and now I have a KILLER lightweight Stingray with a jazz nut width, 3 way switching (without the idiotic Strat-style switch they used on US Sterlings), capable of criminally low action and GREAT tone!

Last change will be a well-cut bone nut and possibly an aged pearl guard. But I paid 199 for the bass, so for 350 I have a bass that plays, feels and sounds like a 2000 Stingray with a more comfortable neck. 100% WIN!
Sounds cool, but you know what has to come next… :snaphappy:
 
I made some big moves to the bass that started this thread all those years ago!
View attachment 7498192

I acquired a new DiMarzio Model P pickup and had the body routed for an additional split pickup half to either side of the existing rout in the standard (i.e. Fender Precision) position and orientation. The new pickup went in toward the neck, the old pickup (an early ‘80s DiMarzio clone by Schaller, to the best of my knowledge) shifted toward the bridge, and a 4-way rotary switch replaced the tone knob.

I can now select:
•reverse-P with the bass half in the standard position and the treble half toward the neck à la Mark Hoppus (“neck position“)
•standard position and orientation (“middle position”)
•reverse-P with the bass half in the approximate Stingray position and the treble half in the standard position (“bridge position”)
•all four halves together (“everything”)

Going into this latest operation, I found the original pickup in the original position a bit darker and less defined than I generally like, even after trying stainless steel roundwound strings and 1M pots on both the volume and tone knobs. I hoped this new arrangement would get me at least one setting with more high end and definition, and predicted the bridge position and everything setting would get me there, with darker options in the middle and neck positions.

As it turns out, all four options seem like improvements for my purposes! :hyper: The neck position doesn’t sound dark at all, if anything maybe a bit scooped relative to the middle position, with the bridge position perhaps a bit more mid-focused; all three of those settings provide excellent, slightly different takes on an aggressive Precision sound. Not too surprisingly, the “everything” setting sounds quite different from the others, but not quite in the way I expected. I did expect something like a thicker 50/50 P/J blend, and it does sound like that; but somehow this ended up the … darkest? … bassiest? …loudest? … least defined? setting of the new arrangement 🤔 I do like the “everything” setting, but it sounds more like switching on some kind of pedal than merely switching pickups.

Anyhow, I’m really glad I took this latest chance on this cheapo, and I’m pleased with the results.
View attachment 7498258
I love this idea, double reverse P pickups with all those wiring combos. Now you’ve got me thinking about a potential build. I need to finish a couple others first though.
 
I love this idea, double reverse P pickups with all those wiring combos. Now you’ve got me thinking about a potential build. I need to finish a couple others first though.
For years now, I’ve had a hankering for one of the old BC Rich Mockingbirds that came stock with a similar configuration. Those do have a significant space between the pickups, with the bridge pickup pretty much right on the bridge. In that case. I suspect the bridge pickup on its own sounds honky or nasal and not especially useful for most players, but it probably blends well with the other pickup.
 
For years now, I’ve had a hankering for one of the old BC Rich Mockingbirds that came stock with a similar configuration. Those do have a significant space between the pickups, with the bridge pickup pretty much right on the bridge. In that case. I suspect the bridge pickup on its own sounds honky or nasal and not especially useful for most players, but it probably blends well with the other pickup.
I like your setup with them right up against each other so you get the classic P sound. Reminds me of the combinations in the Reverend Watt Plower Mark II as well.
 
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For years now, I’ve had a hankering for one of the old BC Rich Mockingbirds that came stock with a similar configuration. Those do have a significant space between the pickups, with the bridge pickup pretty much right on the bridge. In that case. I suspect the bridge pickup on its own sounds honky or nasal and not especially useful for most players, but it probably blends well with the other pickup.
I had an Eagle in that configuration and it sounded best with both pickups blended.
 
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Not super hot rod, cool nonetheless.

Here is the first one.

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I think this was a Glarry maybe. Took everything off except left the body. Got a cool neck from lands unknown way far east. All black hardware, custom logo, and badass bridge. Then put a Wilde P45 in it with an Obsidian P harness.

Turned out to be a killer bass. I love it and play it all the time. I’m a Jazz guy, but this scratches the P itch whenever it arises. Haven’t weighed it, but it can’t be much over 7 lb.
 
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Here is the second one. I have 3 Ultra Jazzes and two parts builds. See other parts build in post right over this.

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I think this one was also a Glarry or something like it that I stripped to just the Burgundy Mist Metallic body. Got another neck sourced from lands far east. These necks with a little tlc are killer. Of course I put a badass bridge on it.

I’d always wanted just some regular EMG active pickups so I got the package that also came with wired plate. Somehow I fit the battery in there. Got some traditional Jazz knobs for it. Thus one came with Fender on the headstock. I did not know that in advance. I would never sell it as such. Such a great lightweight Jazz, I’ll most likely never sell anyways.
 
Here is the second one. I have 3 Ultra Jazzes and two parts builds. See other parts build in post right over this.

View attachment 7498907View attachment 7498908

I think this one was also a Glarry or something like it that I stripped to just the Burgundy Mist Metallic body. Got another neck sourced from lands far east. These necks with a little tlc are killer. Of course I put a badass bridge on it.

I’d always wanted just some regular EMG active pickups so I got the package that also came with wired plate. Somehow I fit the battery in there. Got some traditional Jazz knobs for it. Thus one came with Fender on the headstock. I did not know that in advance. I would never sell it as such. Such a great lightweight Jazz, I’ll most likely never sell anyways.
Putting on my "art student 🧑‍🎨" hat for a moment, I love the way the guard, blocks, headstock and the all-black pickups play off and complement each other from tip to nearly all the way down! And while it already looks great as-is, I could easily see you keeping that thru-line going with a black bridge. :thumbsup:
 
Putting on my "art student 🧑‍🎨" hat for a moment, I love the way the guard, blocks, headstock and the all-black pickups play off and complement each other from tip to nearly all the way down! And while it already looks great as-is, I could easily see you keeping that thru-line going with a black bridge. :thumbsup:
Ordinarily I prefer an unpainted maple headstock with a maple fretboard, but for the reasons you have elucidated here, I like the black headstock in this instance.
 
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changed out the pickup for one with 4 conductor wiring and added a series/parallel/single switch, which is like 3 basses in one switch!
I like how you’ve essentially turned this Stingray into an active Ibanez RB820 or something like an Ibanez ATK300. I strongly favor the single coil settings on those instruments, and this mod kinda makes me want a cheap ‘Ray 😁
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(I don’t really think of either of these as cheap, but the ATK technically qualifies based on what I paid for it. I put a hole in my hand driving those sheet metal screws into the ash body :nailbiting: so it definitely counts as modded!)
 
I picked up this Yamaha TRBX174 about a year ago from the local G.C. Traded in a cheap boost pedal and handed them $100. I really enjoyed how balanced it was at pretty much any angle. Overall tone was pleasant for what it was. With this just being an extra bass in the stable I decided I wanted to tinker with it. I didn't have a fretless bass at the time and decided why not make it fretless. Being new to a fretless instrument I decided to use maple strips to fill the fret holes. The contrast gives the illusion of frets but none are present. At the same time I decided I wanted to black out the hardware.

I picked up Hotshot tuners ($110) and bridge ($65). Swapped to black Dunlop strap locks ($10). Found a black neck plate ($15) and string retainer ($20) on Reverb so grabbed it even though I'll be the only one to see that. Lastly I grabbed some Fender pot knobs (free). I like having the numbers. I frequently adjust levels depending on what I'm playing so having the numbers really helps. I had the local luthier make a new nut ($15) for it as well. Bone cut for flats and piccolo strings.

I'm thinking of replacing the P pickups with DiMarzio Split P. I'd also like to add a pickup selector switch at some point. I'd also like to get a new bridge for faster string changes. Overall I'm having fun with the journey.
 

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