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Unfortunately you cannot see the lines while playing. They covered the side lines with binding, really bad error on Sire's part. On e TB member tried to fix this by sawing side lines at fret positions and putting inlay in, and had less than stellar results, IMO.
Interesting. Was he able to fix the neck first? One of the things about converting is you need a good, flat board to begin with, then it's up to the luthier to do a proper job leveling the fret lines and making sure the board is true, before finishing the surface. If he left the twist in the neck I cannot see how that would play properly as fretless, though perhaps anything is possible?
He tried that. Kept rubbing off. You can find his thread pretty easily, he just posted to it today.
I read the thread, I've also used sharpie with great success, otherwise I would not have typed anything.
I looked at the photos on ZZ, and it looks pretty chonky. My first thought was that it didn't have a belly cut -- but it does -- and it's still that chonky! They are in the 9 pound range, which for me is a little too heavy. Otherwise, awesome suggestion and I hadn't even known about this bass, so thank you for chiming in!
This will probably be the ultimate winner. Flat finish. Neck-through. The tossup is between this and the 900.
Very cool idea. I wish I had the know-how, but it would be a very expensive learning process for me. I'd have to buy 5 basses and hope that after the 4th, I'd finally get it right. I dig the ramp, too.
Both are good choices. Both have coated panga panga boards, are very stable and easy to play. The 900 has a better pre-amp and better p'ups, but the 700 is solid, with hum buckers. Personally, I play the SR370EF in hum bucker mode, it sounds better than the single mode. Both are light weight, but I think the 900 is a bit lighter than the 700.
If you applied coating over the stickers (and the board) they would last forever. I think that's what most people do.
Thank you so much for this. VERY helpful. I looked at the Sadowsky, but like the Sire, I am not a fan of the J body. I know it's heresy, but I have a Fender JB and it's the one bass that I have almost no use for. I mostly play seated and I don't like how it sits. Presently I'm on the fence between the Ibanez 7 and 9.
Probably a lot depends on how you position your fretting hand. If you wrap the neck, won't last long. That's probably the case with OP on that thread. I don't wrap, so probably wouldn't wear it off. I suggested to him to use nail polish, but he said that would wear off too.
Thanks. The hardest part was getting the frets out with minimal damage to the board. I used veneer with Super Glue. Ran a sanding block over it to level out the veneer and a couple coats of wipe on urethane. I'm planning on recoating with a gloss poly finish for more mwah.
Yes, I understand. One of my basses is a fretted Fender Jazz Plus which is slightly undersized body, like the Sadowsky. Both a little heavy, around 9 lbs. I only play standing, have never been able to do so sitting, basses do not sit correctly for me in that position. I chose the Sadowsky for the unlined board, Pau Ferro fretboard wood, and the P/J setup with the Sadowsky preamp. I had been looking at EBMM Stingrays, similar offering except 3X more money. In the end it was a toss up between the Ibanez 900 and the Sadowsky, and I chose the Sadowsky. Really close decision, I would have been equally happy with the 900.
Yeah you're right.
My question is... given the shape of the guitar neck, how did you make the lines parallel?
