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Long-string instruments...any body ever build one?
- Thread starter Thunderscreech
- Start date
I'm going for simplicity, and what will pick up the least amount of hum, but why not? Volume Control Each and then I've got the best of both world.
When I was throwing rocks at the power lines as a first grader I didn't realize I was playing a long string instrument. Sure made a neat sound though.
It does! That's how they got the laser sound effects in Star Wars, so I have been told, hitting the guy wires of a radio tower.
I'm about to begin prototyping this thing. So far I'm having to resort to the hardware store for stuff, minus some P-bass pickups that a friend kindly donated. It's going to utilize 1/16" steel cable as the string, and turnbuckles as "tuners". I'm also going to try a single-coil pickup as well.
Expect a few video clips of the prototype.
Expect a few video clips of the prototype.
You might be able to make something like this as a deturner, to create additional notes. One at each end may let you make four different tones with one string:
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That would be interesting to incorporate. Ever heard of Les Claypool's Whamola? Similar principle, but his was upright bass scale length, and mine is...20 foot scale length, or less, depending on how things work out.
I can't apply as much tension as I'd like (the art gallery doesn't want me drilling holes in the floor or walls) so I'm limited to heavy tables as anchor points.
Your suggestion is pretty cool, actually, the more I think about it. I'll have to see what happens once I build the first prototype.
Build a truss out of a few 2x4s bolted together and a tight piece of wire underneath. Put triangles at either end pointing in, you'll be able to get probably a 100 pounds (easily) of tension that way.!\______/!
5 ea 10' 2x4, 3 bolted together from the bottom using carrage bolts, a 2' overlape at joints (center 2x4 on top of the other two) will give you a 26' long beam laying flat on the floor. Put a grove down the underside for the wire to make the truss (you could even put a turn buckle under the center 2x4 to adjust tension.) Cut the other two 2x4s at about 4.5', make the short pieces the uprights, and the long pieces make the hypotenuse of the triangles. If you cut a dado four or five inches from the end into the bottom beam to accept the upright, all the joints will be in compression; you'll have practically no strain on the fasteners.
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I've actually thought about doing this (minus the truss rod and other things you mentioned about strain on parts, I overlooked that, and I thank you for pointing that out to me). The only issue is that this needs to be portable, somewhat. Well, the end result needs to be portable...Do you think that I could do what you laid out and have it be able to be broken down and set up in like 15 minutes?
Also, could I trouble you to do a quick sketch of your idea? I'm more a visual learner. I like your idea.
Well it wouldn't be heavy maybe 30 lbs. the trouble is the length. As far as breaking down or setting up in 15 Mins. I guess that would depend on how creative you are about making it simple to do. I'm not sure I can draw something but I'll give it a try.
I would appreciate it! And I may have to make it shorter...the Art Gallery is about 20 feet long from door to back wall.
Okay lets see if I can make this coherent. The top left portion is a close up of the left base of the triangle, notice how the upright extends into the base beam. That should be about 1/2".
The other top picture is the under side of the truss the center set of lines represent a rout for the truss wire. The four circles (squiggles really as I can't draw very well)on each side of the bottom segments are flush mounted carriage bolts going through the bottom 2/4 then the top 2x4 and held together with washers and wingnuts. The bottom drawing is a side view of the hole contraption. Under the center section of the beam there is room for a turnbuckle to provide tension adjustment for the truss wire.
As far as quick assembly/disassembly goes, how about eight wing nuts and the turn buckle. you lay it in its side and disconnect the turn buckle, just unscrew it; and then remove the eight wing nuts. It's now in three pieces. To assemble just reverse the process.
The other top picture is the under side of the truss the center set of lines represent a rout for the truss wire. The four circles (squiggles really as I can't draw very well)on each side of the bottom segments are flush mounted carriage bolts going through the bottom 2/4 then the top 2x4 and held together with washers and wingnuts. The bottom drawing is a side view of the hole contraption. Under the center section of the beam there is room for a turnbuckle to provide tension adjustment for the truss wire.
As far as quick assembly/disassembly goes, how about eight wing nuts and the turn buckle. you lay it in its side and disconnect the turn buckle, just unscrew it; and then remove the eight wing nuts. It's now in three pieces. To assemble just reverse the process.
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So, after getting the materials ($30 +/- from Home Depot) and going through a couple of iterations, I have a version that is portable and does what I need it to do. A pity it's only 17 feet long, but that's how long the extension ladder my dad had that he let me use is...
Yes, I made a one string bass out of an extension ladder. And it works.
For now, this is the best option, but as things progress, I'll look for other options, maybe 2x4s like @sissy kathy was talking about or something. Something more permanent.
I had a tiny bit of delay that was barely audible on the little roland microcube I was using at my dad's warehouse, and distortion is used where it is obviously distorted. Otherwise, no other effects were used.
and
Also some clips I put on instagram:
and
I still have to find the optimal tension, or "tuning" on the cable, but that shouldn't be a big deal. And I need to actually play it through my bass amp and figure out how to mount the output jack, too.
Yes, I made a one string bass out of an extension ladder. And it works.
For now, this is the best option, but as things progress, I'll look for other options, maybe 2x4s like @sissy kathy was talking about or something. Something more permanent.
I had a tiny bit of delay that was barely audible on the little roland microcube I was using at my dad's warehouse, and distortion is used where it is obviously distorted. Otherwise, no other effects were used.
and
Also some clips I put on instagram:
and
I still have to find the optimal tension, or "tuning" on the cable, but that shouldn't be a big deal. And I need to actually play it through my bass amp and figure out how to mount the output jack, too.
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Those are fantastic.
Using the ladder was a great idea, I also like the smooth sound that the wood with P pickup has.
Keep up the updates.
Using the ladder was a great idea, I also like the smooth sound that the wood with P pickup has.
Keep up the updates.
Will do.Those are fantastic.
Using the ladder was a great idea, I also like the smooth sound that the wood with P pickup has.
Keep up the updates.
I'm putting a second pickup at the other end tomorrow, and running that to a separate amp, so we'll see how that goes.
Not exactly a long-string instrument, but here's a long-cord light bulb in the MoMA, L.A.
The electrician in me wants to know the voltage drop on that wire. It's only a 40 to 60 watt bulb (I am guessing) so I guess it wouldn't affect it that much, but I'm still interested...
That's actually the coolest installation that I have seen in a while.
Well, not as long as you might think. When current flows, individual electrons don't travel the full length of the conductor at high speed. Electrons already in the filament of the light bulb instantaneously begin to move once the voltage is applied at the plug end. It's like turning on a hose that's already full of water. Electrons flow at a remarkably slow speed in a conductor, typically just a few millimeters per hour in the case of DC current. Electrons have no net flow in AC.
