looking to get a 70's jazz bass ... need advice.

[pbass888]

Im looking to get a 70's jazz bass (my main bass is a 96 mia jazz) and am not sure how to go about the process.I wonder if anyone can give me advice about buying on the internet. Would anyone buy a bass for that kind of dough ( im looking at around 2000-2500) without trying it first?). Ive played a few that belonged to local players and loved them (but they are not for sale).

I dont slap ( straight jazz) and love the sound and feel of the worn old necks and well used pups. I have a roadworn jazz also but that still has not scratched my itch.

Also, since my knowledge of vintage basses is limited I go by the usual 1. feel 2. sound and 3. look.

Ive seen a few on the classifieds from time to time over the last few years but have been hesitant to pull the trigger since Ive never played them.

Dream bass would be a vintage white with block and rosewood but not sure if I can get 1 in my range.


Any one have any experience they would care to share on getting a vintage 70's fender jazz and their experiences.

Thank you fellow TB'ers.

 

[ClassicJazz]

I just picked up this '72 Jazz from right here on TalkBass. For the most part I am very at ease buying from TalkBass members. I have had very good transactions both buying and selling. I think the key is to ask allot questions. Get comfortable with the seller. Go with your gut feeling. In my case, I felt this would be a good purchase, and I was right. I ended up with a beautiful bass. Also a little research is good. Learn about the features that identify a bass for that year. Like is the logo correct, the bridge the color, etc.

When I bought my '88 Sadowsky a number of years back from BassNW, trust me I asked allot of questions. I had them describe everything about the bass to me including all the bumps and dings. I really took a chance with the Sadowsky since I had never played one. Same with the '72 jazz. Besides new ones and some reissues I had never played a '72.

Sent from my iPad using TalkBass

 

[pbass888]

Thanks yes ive had good success buying some other stuff on talkbass. I really dig the blocks on yours looks fantastic. Hopefully I can get one from a fellow tb'er but yes I will wait and lurk until I see one I like. I played a copy of a 70 jazz that was a custom shop which was nice but I really dug the feel of the few actual 70's that I have played . Thank you for the advice!

QUOTE=ClassicJazz;10526139]I just picked up this '72 Jazz from right here on TalkBass. For the most part I am very at ease buying from TalkBass members. I have had very good transactions both buying and selling. I think the key is to ask allot questions. Get comfortable with the seller. Go with your gut feeling. In my case, I felt this would be a good purchase, and I was right. I ended up with a beautiful bass. Also a little research is good. Learn about the features that identify a bass for that year. Like is the logo correct, the bridge the color, etc.

When I bought my '88 Sadowsky a number of years back from BassNW, trust me I asked allot of questions. I had them describe everything about the bass to me including all the bumps and dings. I really took a chance with the Sadowsky since I had never played one. Same with the '72 jazz. Besides new ones and some reissues I had never played a '72.

Sent from my iPad using TalkBass[/QUOTE]

 

[SanDiegoHarry]

do your homework. There is a big difference between most early '70s fenders and late '70s - not just in quality but features set.

Pick the features you want (fingerboard/block style/neck joint/material/finish) and then pick the year... THEN the bass. I would suggest an early '70s as the later ones had that goofy 3 bolt neck and were often heavy as a dumptruck.

good luck

 

[pbass888]

Much appreciated Harry I will do my recon on the web and talking to the experienced cats here in town. I will try to focus on the early 70's models (4 bolt neck etc). thanks again

do your homework. There is a big difference between most early '70s fenders and late '70s - not just in quality but features set.

Pick the features you want (fingerboard/block style/neck joint/material/finish) and then pick the year... THEN the bass. I would suggest an early '70s as the later ones had that goofy 3 bolt neck and were often heavy as a dumptruck.

good luck

 

[ClassicJazz]

I would also suggest buying the book, "The Fender Bass, An Illustrated History"

A great book pack with photos and information about Fender basses from the beginning to current models. It has photos of what to look for in the different year basses like logos, serial numbers and hardware. I got mine from Amazon. Even if you are just into Fender basses, it is a great book!

Sent from my iPad using TalkBass

 

[allexcosta]

Buy from a seller with good feedback (just to make sure it's in working order) and try to find a good price, so you can sell the bass later without losing money. If you repeat this process 3 or 4 times one of them will speak to you...

That's the only way to find a bass that you love online. 70's Fender basses come in many different flavors and only you can tell if you like or dislike a bass guitar...

 

[Catbuster]

Jazz basses from the 1970s are peculiar beings. Some weighed the same as a Cat 345; and some weighed 8 pounds. Some had a three bolt neck joint, and some a 4 bolt. Some had blocks & binding, some had dot position markers.

Then there's always Maple vs Rosewood.

 

[pbass888]

a local friend said he got his recently (about 3 years ago) by throwing some lowish offers on ebay and getting a decent deal (not great IMO) but pretty good. After doing some reasearch I think I would like to try the following configuration....
4 bolt neck config
rosewood with blocks
color any but pref to vintage white or 3tsb

and thankyou ClassicJazz for the book suggestion Ill go get a copy.

 

[weekend warrior]

Do you homework!And if you cant try before you buy makesure you have an approval period.There are certain things about Rosewood block neck jazz basses that you need to know.Jan.75 is the cutoff point.They become three bolt and move the truss rod adjust to the peghead.They also become heavy after this point along with sloppy neck pockets and .....well....just dont get one.pre 75 is another matter.But there are things that you need to check on those before you buy.When they went to blocks and binding (mid 66)They inherited structural problems because of the blocks.Taking out to much of the fretboard.That being the case alot of them developed neck problems.Mainly uncontrolable warping from string tension resulting in Heal lift,Bulging inlays and fretboards.A bass with these problems needs major work and really arent worth the time or cash to fix.Looking at the adjustment screw at the heal is important make sure its not screwed all the way in!This too is a sign of problems with the neck.The neck is everything!So, make sure its straight and the truss rod functions as it should.To me as long as the neck is perfect everything else is workable.You can find great deals on vintage early 70's jazz basses if you look around and if you dont mind refins(as long as they are done right. No over sanding)and changed pickups or pots(really no big deal)You can find one for the price of a new stack knob reissue

 

[pbass888]

That is great advice! I will start looking at the neck. here is 1 on ebay ( not in my range im at 2-2.5k area) but seems to have good neck but not sure about the neck bolt . does it look 'too screwed' in?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330508248906#ht_18344wt_1140

thank you again for sharing this knowledge. I really appreciate it.h

Do you homework!And if you cant try before you buy makesure you have an approval period.There are certain things about Rosewood block neck jazz basses that you need to know.Jan.75 is the cutoff point.They become three bolt and move the truss rod adjust to the peghead.They also become heavy after this point along with sloppy neck pockets and .....well....just dont get one.pre 75 is another matter.But there are things that you need to check on those before you buy.When they went to blocks and binding (mid 66)They inherited structural problems because of the blocks.Taking out to much of the fretboard.That being the case alot of them developed neck problems.Mainly uncontrolable warping from string tension resulting in Heal lift,Bulging inlays and fretboards.A bass with these problems needs major work and really arent worth the time or cash to fix.Looking at the adjustment screw at the heal is important make sure its not screwed all the way in!This too is a sign of problems with the neck.The neck is everything!So, make sure its straight and the truss rod functions as it should.To me as long as the neck is perfect everything else is workable.You can find great deals on vintage early 70's jazz basses if you look around and if you dont mind refins(as long as they are done right. No over sanding)and changed pickups or pots(really no big deal)You can find one for the price of a new stack knob reissue

 

[king_biscuit]

I have a natural/maple 76 with a three bolt neck joint, that weighs about 9 pounds. I have adjusted the neck only one time (initial setup) since purchase (several years ago). I have owned and played a lot of basses, but this is the best sounding Jazz bass -- for me -- I've ever played. I have zero problems with the stability of the 3 joint neck plate, btw. Judge each bass as an individual -- knowing a particular year (with nothing else) tells you nothing about how a bass plays and sounds. I've played dogs and gems from every Fender era.

 

[Spinal Tapper]

I played my buddy's 66 Jazz last night that DESPERATELY needs a setup. The neck is twisted so bad...

So, yeah, there are "dogs" from every era, but don't confuse a "bad" bass with one that hasn't been set up properly.

Personally, I'd go for an early 70's Jazz. I've seen a few around the 2500-3000 range...you're probably going to want to keep a look out for refinished ones, if you plan on spending around $2500 or so...

 

[pbass888]

So much great info. Have any of you bought a bass from a dealer online? Are they usually a little higher than private? Any experiences as I found a few online in the chicago area that sell some vintage period stuff.

 

[king_biscuit]

So much great info. Have any of you bought a bass from a dealer online? Are they usually a little higher than private? Any experiences as I found a few online in the chicago area that sell some vintage period stuff.

You are probably going to pay more from a vintage dealer. Some of them have inspection/return policies, though, and that is certainly worth having.

 

[Spinal Tapper]

So much great info. Have any of you bought a bass from a dealer online? Are they usually a little higher than private? Any experiences as I found a few online in the chicago area that sell some vintage period stuff.

There are places like Chicago Music Exchange that is basically a museum of basses and guitars, but honestly, if you're gonna drop $3k on a bass, u might as well play it first...maybe a trip to Chicago for the weekend would be in order? Truthfully, I've heard some shady things about CMX, but its a cool place with some overpriced pieces. I'd also check out Rock N Roll Vintage or at least give them a call to see if they have some 70's jazzes in stock if you're coming to town. Last time I check, they had like 3. I've done good business with them in the past and my close friend is best buds with the owner. They have a smaller selection than CMX, but are more trustworthy and more reasonably priced IMO.

You WILL "spend less money" on the deal if you look on Ebay or Craigslist for a vintage piece, but you also run the risk of getting something with un-original parts, or as not-described completely.

Personally, if I were buying a bass off Ebay, I'd MAKE SURE the seller was posting pictures of the electronics guts, the neck heel, all the markings that represent an original bass or otherwise...if you don't know your stuff, Fender Bass: An Illustrated History is a FANTASTIC book and a great way to identify originality of parts, period changes, etc. If you don't know what you're getting into, it's a great way to start researching...

 

[faulknersj]

Bought A 73" here on talkbass recently that plays like a dream! They say that it is often the case that vintage basses in really good condition were the duds that did not sound, or play well. I asked a ton of questions about the neck, the setup, how low the action could go, etc.. Mine plays like absolute butter! Also, the bass i purchased was a session players bass for almost 20 years. That added confidence to my purchase. When I found out that Evylyn Champagne Kings bass player originally owned, and played this bass I knew the probability would be that it was a winner. Questions about a basses history can reveal clues as well. Ask for a window to return the bass for a full refund. Mine is a 'player'. I got it for $1500 and purchased almost everything I need to restore her to original condition. One last point; a lot of guys...jazz guys in particular....swear by 77' Jazz basses because the bridge pup is way back by the bridge and really barks like crazy. I have heard cats say the the greatest tonal variation can be acheived on a 77' due to pick-up spacing. Hope this helps! Here is a picture of mine!

 

[oddgrowth]

I bought a '76 jazz body (whole parts bass) for $250 last summer.

Just got a '77 (rose, blocked & bound) neck for $500 from nashville.

These 2 combined like they were made to fit together.
The bass feels so solid and smooth. also did an initial setup last night, and got everything real close. I still have "E" string issues. I'm waiting for keys then it will have a proper setup.

I also own a '76 P with a '75 "A" neck. It plays like a dream.

Yea, take it on a case by case basis.

$700 for my '76 P (w/ '75 neck)
$750 for my '76 J (w/ '77 neck)

neither have any vintage guts/or parts (cept/pickguards) but that's fine w/me.

 

[Spinal Tapper]

Bought A 73" here on talkbass recently that plays like a dream! They say that it is often the case that vintage basses in really good condition were the duds that did not sound, or play well. I asked a ton of questions about the neck, the setup, how low the action could go, etc.. Mine plays like absolute butter! Also, the bass i purchased was a session players bass for almost 20 years. That added confidence to my purchase. When I found out that Evylyn Champagne Kings bass player originally owned, and played this bass I knew the probability would be that it was a winner. Questions about a basses history can reveal clues as well. Ask for a window to return the bass for a full refund. Mine is a 'player'. I got it for $1500 and purchased almost everything I need to restore her to original condition. One last point; a lot of guys...jazz guys in particular....swear by 77' Jazz basses because the bridge pup is way back by the bridge and really barks like crazy. I have heard cats say the the greatest tonal variation can be acheived on a 77' due to pick-up spacing. Hope this helps! Here is a picture of mine!

That's GORGEOUS! How much of it was not original? $1500 is a STEAL for that bass...

 

[Spinal Tapper]

Sorry for the double-post, but I would feel pretty secure buying THIS bass here...(not mine, but happens to be in my home town )

It was set up by Geoff Benge who I've had set up a few of my basses in the past. He does AMAZING work. I'd trust this would be a great price for a great players jazz bass, and if he took $2500 for it, it'd be a killer deal IMO