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Loose connections on mesa subway cabs

The issue doesn’t exist when using his blue collar SpeakOn cable…

We also switched to black SpeakOn jacks for the combos when safety regulations required the new PA-66 material to meet flame spread requirements of the regulation update. Rean offered this under the Neutrik OEM components line

Ok, the green jacks are the original Neutrik branded jacks that at the time did not comply with the IEC 62368-1 regulation update for flame spread. The black jacks are the newer ones that use the newer glass reinforced PA-66 material that was first manufactured by Rean (a Neutrik company). Both the Rean and Neutrik parts are now included on the same Neutrik component safety report/certificate.

Since your blue plugs work with the both the green and black jacks, it's sounding more and more like you have defective (or knockoff/counterfeit) brown plugs.
Doubt it as the cables purchased are from a very reputable company’s, the chances of all 6 expensive speakon cables from 2 separate company’s are defective/knock offs is low, also the 2 ampeg cabs do not have any issues with any of the plugs..
 
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Doubt it as the cables purchased are from a very reputable company’s, the chances of all 6 expensive speakon cables from 2 separate company’s are defective/knock offs is low, also the 2 ampeg cabs do not have any issues with any of the plugs..
You have the information I provided, you are welcome to do what you want with it.
 
I've had poor connections on 2 different brand-new Mesa Subway cabs. One got returned/exchanged (and was fine afterward), and on the other one I carefully bent the contact in its connector to make a more solid connection as I wanted to try that before initiating another exchange.
On both cabs it was the main "IN" connector which had issues.
Before anyone chimes in with the obvious: Yes I'm using proper genuine Neutrik cables from reputable source. 2 different cables. Even tried swapping ends on each.
Said cables work 100% everywhere else, on 2 different amps and another cabinet.

While I don't know how Mesa goes about testing their cabs before shipping out, I kind of wonder if it might be something like a testing jig getting worn or out of alignment. Or maybe they just plug in a cable by hand and its coincidence I've had 2 cabs exhibit this problem on the same jack.

Still, I didn't expect this from Mesa.
 
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I use NL2 Neutrik speak-on cables which are the newer style brown ones. Manufactured by Pro Co. Are these the brown ones mentioned by @agedhorse ? If so are these compatible with MESA cabs? I don't currently own any MESA cabs but they work fine with my GK cabs and a rumble series cab and I believe they also worked with my tc RS series caps as well.

speaker cable.jpg
 
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I use NL2 Neutrik speak-on cables which are the newer style brown ones. Manufactured by Pro Co. Are these the brown ones mentioned by @agedhorse ? If so are these compatible with MESA cabs? I don't currently own any MESA cabs but they work fine with my GK cabs and a rumble series cab and I believe they also worked with my tc RS series caps as well.

View attachment 7376227

These are the ones I use.
 
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I use NL2 Neutrik speak-on cables which are the newer style brown ones. Manufactured by Pro Co. Are these the brown ones mentioned by @agedhorse ? If so are these compatible with MESA cabs? I don't currently own any MESA cabs but they work fine with my GK cabs and a rumble series cab and I believe they also worked with my tc RS series caps as well.

View attachment 7376227
Those look like the connectors I am using. Work just fine on my Subway 115.
 
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I have a pair of the cables with the brown Neutrik connectors and they work fine for me. I also have cables with the older blue Neutrik connectors that also work fine. I did have in my collection of cables two that looked just like the others but the connectors were knock offs. Those cables went in the trash where they belong.
 
As a sound guy, before we went to powered PA and monitor speakers we used cables I made myself using two-wire SO cord and the blue Neutrik connectors. I figure we may have used at least a dozen or more cables regularly.

That's twenty-four connectors being connected, and un-connected, two to three times a week for years with zero issues.

Edited to add: I don't miss hauling road cases of power amps around.
 
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I use NL2 Neutrik speak-on cables which are the newer style brown ones. Manufactured by Pro Co. Are these the brown ones mentioned by @agedhorse ? If so are these compatible with MESA cabs? I don't currently own any MESA cabs but they work fine with my GK cabs and a rumble series cab and I believe they also worked with my tc RS series caps as well.

View attachment 7376227
Those are the exact same cables I've been using.
 
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Those are the exact same cables I've been using.
You can definitely tell that Pro Co is using genuine Neutrik connectors because they really have a smooth twist and lock and fit like a glove. If there's anything I've learned in all the years that I have been using Neutrik connectors is you always have to use the genuine item.
 
Even if I saved all 4 boxes living on East Coast would definitely give Duct Tape a shot before dealing with that nightmare of Shipping to CA.😀
Unwise.
Most of the 2” cloth tape products widely referred to as “duct tape” don’t conduct electricity especially well, but none are insulating. It’s ok (sort of) for your set list or taping cables down but not for temporarily repairing anything that conducts electrical current.

For that, use electrical tape that complies with UL or CSA standards. Electrical tape is also a lot less expensive and gives a tighter more effective wrap. A loose wrap that turns an air gap into an intermittent air gap can cause much bigger problems than it’s trying to solve.

For a permanent repair don't use tape at all. Replace the parts.
 
Unwise.
Most of the 2” cloth tape products widely referred to as “duct tape” don’t conduct electricity especially well, but none are insulating. It’s ok (sort of) for your set list or taping cables down but not for temporarily repairing anything that conducts electrical current.

For that, use electrical tape that complies with UL or CSA standards. Electrical tape is also a lot less expensive and gives a tighter more effective wrap. A loose wrap that turns an air gap into an intermittent air gap can cause much bigger problems than it’s trying to solve.

For a permanent repair don't use tape at all. Replace the parts.
Yes all your points are correct and I understand; This was an 'attempt' at Humor and Duct tape fit that attempt to me better than Electrical

i also learned to be more careful at posting Humor on public forum even if it seems blatantly Obvious to me and followed by Laughing Emoji
 
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Yes all your points are correct and I understand; This was an 'attempt' at Humor amd Duct tape fit that attempt to me better than Electrical

i also learned to be more careful at posting Humor on public forum even if it seems blatantly Obvious to me and followed by Laughing Emoji
Sorry man no dis intended at all. I kinda thought you might be kidding but I’m old and my attention to emojis begins and ends with 👍. I’ve seen too much stuff like damaged 4/0 wire coming out of a 240V 400A service “repaired” with cloth tape to make assumptions.
 
I've experienced finickiness from my Mesa TT and 115 cabs as well. They do seem way more picky about the type of connector used than any of my other amps/cabs. It's not a big deal once you get cables that work but definitely something to keep in mind. Most people have had good luck using real Neutrik plugs but even those have changed so much over time you really just have to try them out to know 100% if it will work.
 
@bullgoose76:

You don’t need to send your cabs to Mesa (Andy). If you are capable of removing the connection plate just disconnect the wires and just send in the connection plate assembly. You may want to send a cable with them so he can see the interaction between the two.
Also, if you use your cabs regularly and you have 4, send two at a time so you have cabs to play through.
 
@bullgoose76:

You don’t need to send your cabs to Mesa (Andy). If you are capable of removing the connection plate just disconnect the wires and just send in the connection plate assembly. You may want to send a cable with them so he can see the interaction between the two.
Also, if you use your cabs regularly and you have 4, send two at a time so you have cabs to play through.
Send it back to the manufacturer? To replace a jack that isn’t attached to a circuit board???
Or did I miss something about something only a factory tech can do like replacing the dilithium DMX interface or a talent protection module update?