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loose tuner leaf cure - CA glue / Loctite / Superglue / ?

#2
If that's the route you want to take, use red Loc-Tite. Ensure you work it between the paddle and the shaft, get as much as you can in there. Wipe off any excess before it starts to set up. I believe it takes an hour to set up; I'd wait a day. After it has been set up a couple days you can color the Loc-Tite with a silver sharpie to help it blend into the chrome.
 
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#4
If all you are interested in is stopping the rattle,@96tbird's solution will work. Plus there is less potential of marring the finish of the tuner. The down side is the CA won't stay adhered to both pieces; the CA acts kinda like a wedge, it quiets things down but doesn't do more than that. Using the Loc-Tite is a potential mess if you don't manage to get the excess cleaned off good. It has the advantage of actually binding the two pieces together permanently.
 
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#6
Bass V said:
is it best to choose and stick to one product, or can these be compounded? first, with a more viscus glue seeping in further and setting up and then applying the gel?
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Choose one and stick to it. The Loc-Tite is really designed for metal to metal contact and won't take well to CA. Adding CA on top of Loc-Tite just puts a clear coat on the Loc-Tite.

If you are asking about compounding different CAs, I have no idea.
 
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#9
Liquid thin CA wicks in the joint and stops the rattle. Cleanup is ridiculously simple if there's an accident.
  • One drop on a toothpick.
  • Touch to joint. Hit it with accelerator.
  • Repeat if needed on the other side. (Wait five minutes for the accelerator to gas off.)
Re-peening: If they couldn't get it tight in the shop before the plating it is doubtful that the average player will get it tighter without damaging the plating. CA is fast, easy, and does the job.
 
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#10
farace said:
Do these tuners have peened rivers holding the ears on? If so, perhaps there is a way to re-peen them a little tighter without marring the plating?
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these are peened cheapos and could be re'd, but if i gotta go that far I'll likely replace them all with a higher quality set eventually. til then I've got it hillbillygyvered so I can play.
thanx for the suggestions, I might have this sussed out before midnite.
 
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#11
The old Schallers on my 75 G3 came loose thirty plus years ago. loose. Back in the eighties one came off when I was tuning it. Inspection showed that each side of the slot in the button had two teeth on it that engaged holes in the shaft slot. I decided against smacking it with a hammer so I used thick leather and a vice to squeeze the sides of the button together into the shaft. Worked fine. I did peen one side of the shaft for good measure. Thirty odd years and they’re still fine.

Problem is, plating generally stinks these days (mine are nickel which is more malleable than chrome) plus many tuners seem to have cast shafts except for the better brands. Peening is a risk unless you are positive they are steel. If so, peen one side of the slot at the base and the other at the tip or you may just loosen the opposite side as you peen across from it because of the center material in the shaft slot. Clear as mud?
 
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#13
Just tighten the screw at the top of the paddle... Isn't this the Toby in your sig, or another bass?

If this is a vintage with value, I'd use the CA trick as described. Otherwise, I would look for replacement tuners that match both the tuning hole, and the screw holes of the old ones. That way, I can get a more desirable ratio and other attributes. Certainly, if the tuners have some trouble holding tune for a decent duration (which is the suspicion that I would have if I had issues with the paddle... i.e. defective or a bad shift at the manufacturing plant that produced a substandard batch).
 
#15
74hc said:
Just tighten the screw at the top of the paddle... Isn't this the Toby in your sig, or another bass? If this is a vintage with value, I'd use the CA trick as described.
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not the Toby, this is an old Cort PJ tank I recently got pitifully cheap online at a pawn shop, it's got the clover paddles and is fairly wrought with issues yet has taken over as my current favorite, getting it even halfway playable has me pretty stoked. ...but the Toby is always within reach.
 
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#16
Yeppers, if all you’ve got is a little wiggle super thin CA is the winner here. Your parts need to be free of oil or grease. If you want some really thin CA, go to a hobby supplier and get some thin r/c car tire glue. Most medium tire glue would be typical household CA thin and tire glue thin is exactly that.
 
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#18
Yes. Let’s weld chromed metal. Results will be spectacular.

CA IS the winner. It’s not as much gluing as it is filling the gaps with hard acrylic (you know the acrylate part of CA) to stop movement. Only CA will wick in there by capillary action and do that. Science AND common sense employed.
 
#20
InZeroGravity said:
I had one like that. Jammed a small piece of paper in and fixed. Not pretty but worked but since they were cheap-o ones anyways, it only had to last until I replaced them (for other reasons)
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the gap seems to be so slight it's unstuffable, but I'll give the CA a try (it might be better than the string I have keeping tension on the leaf...), if that doesn't work I can always toss a D-Tuner Ext. on the E and swap in the good gear. I'm just glad it's playable at all for the moment, this thing is definitely worth the effort.
 

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