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Low End PJ Build (With Pics!) Complete with Questionable Squier DNA

Looking good! Thanks for taking us along for the ride! BTW...that pedicure is on point!

I thought no one would ever notice! :cool:

I ordered a 4 hole pick guard from WD over the weekend, which concludes my part ordering until the thing is together and I can assess what else I want to do. I plan on getting black tuners and one of those anodized black pg's at some point in the future, but I'd like to curb my spending until the thing is functional.

I last minute decided to stay with the stock electronics for the time being to simplify and expedite the build ahead of October 9th. If the Fender MIM P bass pick guard I ordered works with the body, I'll at least have a template and set of 4 holes to work with in planning any future electronics upgrades.

To bring the parts list up to speed:

-Squier VM Maple Jazz Neck w/ stock hardware
-2001 Squier Affinity P body
-Squier PJ pickups/pots
-4 hole black PG from WD Music
-Black Badass Bridge
-Black hardware from allparts.com

Once again, right now I'm looking to keep the bass authentic to its roots as a Squier but if it sounds and feels like trash, electronics upgrades and a custom neck aren't out of the question.

More to come....
 
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1 of 3 remaining parts packages received- 2 to go...

Pickup, pickguard, bridge, and neck screws, neck plate cushion, and wire!

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I decided that I wasn't about to sand off the decade's worth of poorly executed paint jobs. Long story short, I had a white base layer of too thick interior furniture paint, beneath a black rattle can base that I had to lay down for the color changing blue and purple paint.... and then there's the blue and purple paint. Add too few layers of some shoddily shot clear coat and boom! This is what you end up with:

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I decided to go with the path of least resistance and strip instead, using some pretty rudimentary software and hardware:

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I learned pretty quick that when you have that much paint to get through, that the dinky plastic scrapers will only take you so far... more on that later. Pouring the stripper in the bucket, it reminded me of that nasty looking lobster sauce you get from some Chinese restaurants, but I think the stripper smelled more appetizing:

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In any case, I applied a thick goopy layer and let it sit to do its magic- It started to do its thing almost immediately:

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After about 15 minutes I dove in. I was pretty impressed with how well the stuff worked. It took a few hours of reapplications and scraping with the flimsy, worthless scraper, but I was making enough progress to motivate me to keep going:

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Now I'm not sure if it was before I got to working on the back of the body, but I wised up with my hardware:

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More in the next post....



Love it so far, not sure on that pickup cut out, looks like a nibbles was used.

So, you wear gloves to protect your hands but bare feet? You repeal the law of gravity?

Your toes, their length? Used to live in a tree?

Seriously, all in jest. Liking this so far.
 
Love it so far, not sure on that pickup cut out, looks like a nibbles was used.

So, you wear gloves to protect your hands but bare feet? You repeal the law of gravity?

Your toes, their length? Used to live in a tree?

Seriously, all in jest. Liking this so far.

You had me belly laughing in the car with this response! :laugh:

My toes are pretty long- This is not the first time I've received feedback on them lol

Thanks for the kind words and the humor as well!

We've Another update-

And I've really done it this time... Long story short, while attempting to resolder the wire back to the pickup terminal (not the coil wire, the lead going to the pot), I employed what I thought was somewhat proper technique. However, not realizing that the bobbin was some cheap plastic- (Squier- duh), I melted the corner of the bobbin away before the terminal was hot enough to run the solder onto it.

I tinkered with the mess I had created for a while, scrambling to try and somehow heat the terminal enough to get the solder to take while simultaneously trying to leave the coil wire attached, but to no avail. Eventually, the coil wire came loose from the terminal. "Great!" I thought; "Now I have an opportunity to try/learn/fail at reconnecting the coil wire to the terminal!"

As you've probably already guessed- no dice. I ended up unwinding a couple wraps of wire in a humorously feeble attempt to fix the damage I had done. After spending about half an hour of making things objectively worse, I cut my losses, stumbled across a classified listing for some pickups, and bought myself a fender noiseless jazz bridge pickup... complete with two functioning wire leads: First quality upgrade executed!

In addition to this tumult, I received the pick guard from WD music and came to the realization that I overlooked the diameter of the threads on the pots. These little Squier pots are tiny, and the threaded portion is smaller than the pick guard holes (I believe the PG holes are 3/8) so, now I need a set of pots. I have a local builder who lives less than 2 miles from me so I'm hoping to be able to get in touch with him to just snag the pots locally. Else, I'll have to place another order, and wait for another shipment which I really don't feel like doing. I suppose if I had gone about this more methodically, I wouldn't be in this situation but hey, at least I'm learning!

I'm VERY tempted to simply order a prewired jazz bass wiring harness with the 2 volumes and 1 tone pot so I can just drop it in. But those things are often wired without much or any room to move the pots away from each other which is what would be required on the p bass pickguard, so maybe a better option is a kit that isn't already wired. This way I can actually solder everything up myself and get some experience doing that; I'm not the best with a soldering iron but I can make it happen.

Anywho- I took off from work today since I have a good amount of PTO through which I need to burn before the end of the year, so I'm going to hit the garage and get the final coats of stain on the body.

Thanks for tuning in!
 
Welp.... My apologies for the delay in posting! Nonetheless, we have some updates:

Pickup pictures (might be hard to see where I messed it up per the last post:

Terminal closest to the camera clearly disfigured:
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Me pulling the wire away from the terminal to which it's supposed to be fixed:

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Annnnnnd the replacement. It required a little additional routing/sanding of the pickup cavity, and I noticed the pole pieces are staggered significantly. Im eager to see if/how that affects the signal:

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Also, the neck I ordered (Squier VM Jazz neck with white binding/block inlays) was destroyed beyond reasonable repair on its journey from CA to NJ. But thanks to @Charlzm we got the situation squared away with ease and grace. Here is the box as it arrived at my door, and here is the neck:

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Able to see right through to the damaged neck:
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Able to see right through to the damaged neck 2.0:
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So.... that was that.

Continued in next post
 

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... Continued from last post

It ended up working out in the end however, since I really wanted one of these necks with the black inlays and binding. Well don't you know that yesterday I was able to pick up one of these guys from another great TB'r @TheLowDown33 for a great deal:

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And here is the neck with the damage. My guess is that the cost to repair the damage would healthily exceed what I paid for it.

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I've also wired up the electronics (save for a couple grounds and adding the jazz pickup to the party) but I'll post on that a bit later today I hope.
 
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Welp.... My apologies for the delay in posting! Nonetheless, we have some updates:

Pickup pictures (might be hard to see where I messed it up per the last post:

Terminal closest to the camera clearly disfigured:
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Me pulling the wire away from the terminal to which it's supposed to be fixed:

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Annnnnnd the replacement. It required a little additional routing/sanding of the pickup cavity, and I noticed the pole pieces are staggered significantly. Im eager to see if/how that affects the signal:

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Also, the neck I ordered (Squier VM Jazz neck with white binding/block inlays) was destroyed beyond reasonable repair on its journey from CA to NJ. But thanks to @Charlzm we got the situation squared away with ease and grace. Here is the box as it arrived at my door, and here is the neck:

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Able to see right through to the damaged neck:
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Able to see right through to the damaged neck 2.0:
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So.... that was that.

Continued in next post


Good thing the box said “Fragile” on it or they might have gotten really rough...
 
Good thing the box said “Fragile” on it or they might have gotten really rough...

I was thinking the same thing! :banghead:

As soon as the tracking updates stopped with 4 “In transit to destination” entries with no locational details, I knew something was up. It was only after the seller and I opened missing mail requests that it magically arrived at my local office the next day.
 
Wiring Update:

As referenced a couple posts up, I have the wiring mostly complete minus connecting the jazz pickup and a couple grounds. I wired the VBT using a 250k CTS volume pot, an Alpha 250k MN blend bot, and a 250k CTS tone pot to round it out per the below diagram. I also have a 500k Noble MN blend pot that I ordered as an extra but that's on the pine for now.

I followed the below wiring diagram (from this thread: Ultimate No-load Ungrounded Blend Pot (Pics!)) courtesy of @walterw with the exception of cutting the traces to make the blend pot "no-load."

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Here are a few pictures of the electronics. Certainly not the cleanest soldering in the world, especially on that volume pot... blech :***:. But it looks to be functional, so we'll see once I get it all together:

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I still need to start the top coat on the body but I've been particularly lazy recently and haven't felt like diving into it. But now that I have the rest of the parts and I know the pick guard will fit nicely onto the body, I think it's safe to proceed.

Here's to some more progress! :hyper:
 
that should work, except it looks like the hot leg of the tone cap is touching the pot casing; that will kill your entire signal!

also, i recommend running a real ground wire at least from the volume pot casing to the jack, especially if you're going to ground both pickups there; relying on those thin bits of overlapping foil to carry the ground connection will probably end in tears...
 
that should work, except it looks like the hot leg of the tone cap is touching the pot casing; that will kill your entire signal!

also, i recommend running a real ground wire at least from the volume pot casing to the jack, especially if you're going to ground both pickups there; relying on those thin bits of overlapping foil to carry the ground connection will probably end in tears...
that should work, except it looks like the hot leg of the tone cap is touching the pot casing; that will kill your entire signal!

also, i recommend running a real ground wire at least from the volume pot casing to the jack, especially if you're going to ground both pickups there; relying on those thin bits of overlapping foil to carry the ground connection will probably end in tears...

Thanks so much for the tips! That tone cap leg is verrrrry close but not quite touching. I’m going to put a bit more space between them though just for piece of mind.

And IIRC I ran a ground wire from the pot casing to the jack on my other bass so I’ll duplicate that here. I can’t wait to hear it sing!
 
Just a quick mock up with the aforementioned damaged neck. I may use it to suspend the body while I do the poly finish so I can apply/execute more evenly.

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Also @walterw just to confirm my understanding- If the hot leg of the tone cap was contacting the pot casing, the signal would die because I’d have accidentally grounded the entire signal to the pot casing before running through the cap, correct?
 
Question to those more learned on this kind of thing- Just grabbed a multi meter yesterday and hooked it up the to jazz pickup... is something off here? To the best of my knowledge, Dual coil noiseless jazz bridge pickup: EDIT- Thought I remembered it reading at over 15k but 12.XX is a bit more reasonable. I’m used to reading 8-10k range so 15 sounded outlandish:

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I checked a random Ebay p pickup and it’s seems to give me a more normal reading:

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The dual coil part is probably the reason for the higher reading. The P pickup is just two halves of a single coil.

-Jake

Thanks for the info! I had a feeling it could have been the two coils but wasn't sure.

In any case, I've finally gotten off my rear to get the body finished. I've been procrastinating pretty hard the last several weeks due to weather, laziness, and a small lull in mood (ended a relationship with a lady this week- unfortunate but necessary. I'll spare you the details).

As I've gotten into the steps of staining/finishing the body, I've remembered how much I don't like this step. Not the color/style that I chose, but the actual process of finishing. I think a big part of it is that I don't have the requisite skills, experience, and tools that would yield a high quality finish, but I also think I'm a bigger fan of the results of a good finish job than the actual work itself.

I'm using a 2.5 inch nylon brush and the Minwax Polycrylic gloss. I had the body sanded to 320 before applying the first coat. It took a bit of time to get familiar with the behavior to eh Polycrylic but got used to it as time went on. It starts out cloudy/milky, but clears as it dries. I initially was looking to do many thin coats with light sanding in between, and did this on the first few coats. However, I came across a woodworking forum while surfing the web in between coats where a gentleman said that after the first few coats, he lays them on 2 or 3 at a time before sanding and has had positive results. I'm sort of trying to hurry this thing to completion, so I'm going to take a chance on it to save myself some sanding. After all, I'm not concerned with this thing being a show piece- a functional and protective finish will do.

After the first coat:

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In the sun after first coat. Lucky for me, that very very bright section of the body on the treble side will be covered by the pickguard:
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I was heavily considering staining the body some more to try and achieve a more uniform finish, but I've come to like the more weathered and worn look of the inconsistencies, especially around the edge. It's part the grain, and part my sanding too much while staining, but I dig it:

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I think I'm at coat five now. I'm going to let this one dry fully, give it a light sanding to see how smooth it comes out, and throw a couple more coats on depending on what I see.

Here goes nothing!
 

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Here are a few images to show the texture currently showing. I know I didn’t let the brushes dry enough for the couple hours between coats so I’m thinking the spots/specks are partially due to air bubbles.

Either way, I’m letting the body sit another couple days before sanding it down and adding another handful of coats. If it comes out how I think it’s going to, I’ll be pleased.

There are several spots where I tried to touch up after the coat was sitting for too long, so it was already drying and I ended up leaving brush marks.
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I don’t have even near a dust free environment to let this dry- this was all done during the day out in the garage with neighbors doing yard work. I’m curious to see what it looks like after sanding again with 320.
 
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