Machine Shop Practice: Making Custom Metal Hardware For Basses

[MovinTarget]

So suppose someone wanted to dabble in metalworks primarily for bass hardware.

What quality of drill press is ideal? I doubt one needs the biggest, most powerful one, right?

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Wow, lots of questions and comments, and I haven't even gotten started yet! Yes, we'll talk about tools and machines some here in this thread. But the focus of this thread will be on machine shop practice, not on comparing and recommending brands of tools. We can do that on another thread.

At the moment I'm right in the middle of machining up some spoke wheel style truss rod parts... for one of my regular clients. I'll do some more writing on this thread tonight.

 

[rwkeating]

I've made my own bridges. I used a drill press, but the rest was done by hand. I know there are down sides to this design, but it has been working for me. Build #4 (still mostly hand tools, 8 string tapping inst.)

Looking forward to following this thread!

 

[arbiterusa]

If you’re gonna make your own parts, even with just a hacksaw and vise, one thing you can’t live without is a tap n die set.

 

[MovinTarget]

If you’re gonna make your own parts, even with just a hacksaw and vise, one thing you can’t live without is a tap n die set.

Quick scan of amazon finds some decently rated US & Metric sets in the upper $50's so that's a relief!

 

[Bass-Babe]

So suppose someone wanted to dabble in metalworks primarily for bass hardware.

What quality of drill press is ideal? I doubt one needs the biggest, most powerful one, right?

Honestly imo I would get a small milling machine and drill press is not so important. I barely use mine . I use my mini mill /lathe combo as much as I can x/y cross slide drilling is so accurate and easy to do .

 

[ardgedee]

Quick scan of amazon finds some decently rated US & Metric sets in the upper $50's so that's a relief!

It can be useful to check reviews on Fakespot or a similar service. (The site really wants you to install a browser plugin but you don't have to.) It's a good way to filter out the items that have been astroturfed by buying fake reviews.

 

[Fynn]

This post reminds me, my uncle works as a machinist (I believe thats the correct job description in english). He mentioned before that he can use the machines at work for some private projects. Maybe I should ask him if he could do me a favor haha

 

[Egg250]

So suppose someone wanted to dabble in metalworks primarily for bass hardware.

What quality of drill press is ideal? I doubt one needs the biggest, most powerful one, right?

If you were seriously looking at doing this for a hobby, I'd invest in a benchtop milling machine and some very basic tooling....drill bits, end mills, mill vise, etc. Of course you'd need a dial or digital caliper for measuring. With that, you could machine bridges, saddles, nuts from soft metals and mild steel. Be careful....the tooling can run as much as the machine. A benchtop mill can be had for $500 or less.

I recommend a milling machine because you would be tempted to perform milling operations with your drill press and will likely not have good results and tear your drill press up. Take your time, learn how to use the machine.

 

[Beej]

If you were seriously looking at doing this for a hobby, I'd invest in a benchtop milling machine and some very basic tooling....drill bits, end mills, mill vise, etc. Of course you'd need a dial or digital caliper for measuring. With that, you could machine bridges, saddles, nuts from soft metals and mild steel. Be careful....the tooling can run as much as the machine. A benchtop mill can be had for $500 or less.

I recommend a milling machine because you would be tempted to perform milling operations with your drill press and will likely not have good results and tear your drill press up. Take your time, learn how to use the machine.

$500! Man, if you find one used for that price, snap it up quick because you could easily resell it for double.

 

[MPU]

Some pics and explanation of my latest metal work ( Alembic style brass bridge) is at MPU Brown bass

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Some pics and explanation of my latest metal work ( Alembic style brass bridge) is at MPU Brown bass

Yes, obviously I'm hoping that you'll join in this discussion, Marko. Your recent Alembic-style bridge is a great example of a sophisticated bridge built from scratch, without using mills and lathes. Clever process ideas and beautiful workmanship. I hope to use it as an example in our discussions of technique.

 

[tr4252]

This is a good idea for a thread and I look forward to participating.

Throughout my career in industry I've spent a lot of time designing and fabricationg tools, fixtures, etc. Even the most basic tools like drill presses and saws are capable of doing complex and precise work if you know how to use them effectively.

For people new to machining, and to remind those of us who've done it for a while; Safety is #1 priority. Learn to draw/sketch accurately. Learn to plan. Keep workspace clean and organized. Brass is easier to work than steel, aluminum is easier still. Stainless steel is not for amateurs.

Hope to pick up new tricks here, and contribute what I can.

Tom

 

[ardgedee]

A benchtop mill can be had for $500 or less.

$500! Man, if you find one used for that price, snap it up quick because you could easily resell it for double.

Yeah, I was going to say that seemed optimistic... Harbor Freight has one for $900, and there are scant few complete machines listed on EBay for less than that.

There is a 4-axis CNC milling machine on EBay right now with only one bid for $25 and a day remaining in auction. Buyer is responsible for removal and shipping though, which starts at $16k because it's 20 ft long and weighs 11 tons.

 

[MovinTarget]

Yeah, I was going to say that seemed optimistic... Harbor Freight has one for $900, and there are scant few complete machines listed on EBay for less than that.

There is a 4-axis CNC milling machine on EBay right now with only one bid for $25 and a day remaining in auction. Buyer is responsible for removal and shipping though, which starts at $16k because it's 20 ft long and weighs 11 tons.

I had looked up "mini Mills" on Amazon yesterday and while there were some to be had ~$500, the reviews were not encouraging. I may or may not take the plunge at some point, but I'm a bit cautious about buying/build which is why I go so slow (last build, see profile pic, took 3.5 years from concept to completion).

I know this isn't the topic of this thread so it'll be my last question:

Suppose I do proceed to buy a table mill, would I need to get 4 axis? 3 axis?

I've long understood its very easy to load up on tools/features that are superfluous so I try to get informed first

 

[Egg250]

Yeah, I was going to say that seemed optimistic... Harbor Freight has one for $900, and there are scant few complete machines listed on EBay for less than that.

There is a 4-axis CNC milling machine on EBay right now with only one bid for $25 and a day remaining in auction. Buyer is responsible for removal and shipping though, which starts at $16k because it's 20 ft long and weighs 11 tons.

Wow! They seem to have significantly increased since I looked at them years ago.

 

[MPU]

Yes, obviously I'm hoping that you'll join in this discussion, Marko. Your recent Alembic-style bridge is a great example of a sophisticated bridge built from scratch, without using mills and lathes. Clever process ideas and beautiful workmanship. I hope to use it as an example in our discussions of technique.

My method is to try to compensate the lack of machinery with creativity. One thing I've learned from your threads is that nothing beats a level surface, whether it's for sanding, shaping or drilling. That's where it all starts and that's where it all ends.

 

[TerribleTim68]

Wow! They seem to have significantly increased since I looked at them years ago.

I can tell you, from the Architectural world, literally everything has at least doubled since COVID.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Okay, I'm back......

I'm going to start with a short discussion of tools and machines. I want to identify the tools I most commonly use when making metal parts for basses. So you know what I'm referring to when we get into the discussions of the process of making the parts.

Let's hold off on debating details about the tools, recommended brands, other cool machines, etc., on this thread. We'll do that somewhere else.

These are the hand tools that I use every day. I consider them to be the essentials for metalworking:

Basic layout tools:
A Sharpie (I really like those Milwaukee brand ones)
A small automatic center punch
A metal scriber. Get a good quality one; this one is an old Starrett
A couple of machinist's rulers, particularly a 6" ruler with 100ths graduations
A small machinist's square. I like this particular type, which is called a Double Square.
Digital calipers. That particular style brand is my favorite. They are imported and only cost about $25, but they are surprisingly accurate and durable.
In the background: blank index cards and a pencil, and a cheap calculator. That's the bench-top engineering.

A small anvil, imported, which I bought at a flea market for $5. It's sitting on top of an old birch log.
A good quality center punch, ground to a good point.
An 8 oz Ball-Peen hammer, well worn.

You gotta have a large, strong, heavy smooth-jaw vise. This one has been my favorite general metalworking vise for about 25 years. It's about a 1940's vintage Yankee 4" Drill Press Vise. I've mounted it on a maple block on the corner of my main metalworking bench, which is steel. I like the vise mounted this way, with the screw to the back. It gives real good clearance on 3 sides for filing and sawing.

You need a smooth jaw vise for this kind of metalworking. Most of the Bench Vises have serrated jaws, which will make nasty marks in your precious parts. If you have a vise with serrated jaws, you can easily make up new smooth aluminum jaws for it.

Hacksaws: I particularly like these frames which used to be sold by Sears Craftsman. The lower one has a 32 tooth blade for cutting steel and stainless. The upper one has a 24 tooth blade for cutting aluminum and brass. Don't mix them up! I have other special purpose hacksaws, but these are the two that get used daily.

Files, files, files. The main cutting tools of metalworking. Many sizes and shapes, in grades from Bastard up to #4 Swiss. We'll talk more about files when we get into a project using them.

And you need a couple of big files too. That 14" Square Bastard File in the front can almost do the work of a milling machine. You supply the muscle and energy.

And that thing behind them is called a File Card (for some reason). It's a stiff bristle brush on one side and a fine wire-tooth brush on the other. You use it constantly to clean the metal chips out of your files. An essential metalworking tool.

 

[TerribleTim68]

I'd like to pause to add, I've got one of the cheapie Harbor Freight automatic center punches and it worked fine for about 6 uses and then it wouldn't "automatically" punch anymore. If I unscrew it, then screw it back together, it will work again. But I have to do that after every use or the automatic action does nothing.
Do yourself a favor, buy a good one here.