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Mahogany 4-String: First build
- Thread starter Getaway Driver
- Start date
ziricote would be freakin' amazing to use but I'm not sure about the cost. I'll have to check it out this week.
Ordered a 24" spoke nut truss rod from StewMac and 8ft of fretwire. They suggested a minimum of 6ft for a bass, so I figure I'll have enough to make mistakes with. The truss rod access with of course be at the bass of the neck so I'm not concerned about the strength of the headstock joint... Thinking about gluing a slab to the end of the neck rather than carving the whole thing out of one piece- it's kind of a waste of good wood. I could use a piece of the leftover mahogany too, and have a matching headstock. It think I might go that direction.
Also, on pickup positioning... What would you guys recommend? I've got the bridge pickup starting at 788mm and the neck pickup at about 720mm. I'm wondering if I should go with a more bridge-friendly position or split them further, one closer to the bridge and one closer to the neck. Anyone have any examples of what other builders are going with? I'm curious about placement in EBMM double-humbucker's vs. Wal's, warwick $$'s, trabens, etc...
Also, on pickup positioning... What would you guys recommend? I've got the bridge pickup starting at 788mm and the neck pickup at about 720mm. I'm wondering if I should go with a more bridge-friendly position or split them further, one closer to the bridge and one closer to the neck. Anyone have any examples of what other builders are going with? I'm curious about placement in EBMM double-humbucker's vs. Wal's, warwick $$'s, trabens, etc...
Lots of work has been getting done now that the weather is warm enough for me to work in the garage. I took some pics and then my camera battery died, so I'll put them up as soon as it's charged.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,003
- 1
- 31,694
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Still only have one pickup and A LOT of my cash is going to Lasik surgery next friday so it could be a little while till I fill up the neck pickup route... I'll have to make up some kind of pickguard to cover it in the meantime.
I still need to setup a jig to slot for the frets, I should have included the sweet piece of ziricote I bought for it.
Also, I would recommend using a sharp bandsaw blade when cutting out a body. My 1/4" blade is dull enough to touch while in use and not cut your fingers. Takes a LOOOOONG time to get anything done with it.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,003
- 1
- 31,694
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Please don't cover up that lovely ribbon figure with a pickguard. Please?
(Touch a moving bandsaw blade? Are you kidding?)
(Touch a moving bandsaw blade? Are you kidding?)
Nice looking grain! I like the natural finish so clear varnish or lacquer or ambitious French Polish. Remember to square off the corners and measure off the breadth of the timber.
Measure halfway across at both ends and draw a pencil line all the way along the middle.
From this line all other measurements can be made from the neck end to the bridge to the strap nut. Then you can cut out the shape on the band-saw. Slightly oversize remember so that you can clean up and sand the body. There are some luxury timbers for musical instrument making. it may be of interest to you so have a look at Touchstone Tonewoods website (near London,UK) for ideas.
Measure halfway across at both ends and draw a pencil line all the way along the middle.
From this line all other measurements can be made from the neck end to the bridge to the strap nut. Then you can cut out the shape on the band-saw. Slightly oversize remember so that you can clean up and sand the body. There are some luxury timbers for musical instrument making. it may be of interest to you so have a look at Touchstone Tonewoods website (near London,UK) for ideas.
Looking good! Love that ribbon...
Instead of commit sacrilage and cover that gorgeous wood, why not make a pickup cover placeholder. Then replace the placeholder with a pickup down the line.
Instead of commit sacrilage and cover that gorgeous wood, why not make a pickup cover placeholder. Then replace the placeholder with a pickup down the line.
PLEASE don't touch a moving blade. We'd all like you to be able to play this beauty when it's finished!
On topic, it's looking great so far. That Mahogany is gorgeous and I dig the shape.
headlikeahole
Commercial User
bassgiant15
Endorsing Artist: Spector Basses
- Dec 19, 2005
- 2,074
- 1,459
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Spector Basses
Alright, well... It's been a while... but I finally got back to working on this thing. Having been several years since I last worked on this bass, I'm a bit... lost. But it's all coming back to me.
Cocobolo fretboard, radiused and sanded to 1500-grit.
I didn't feel like spending $40+ on a curved block of wood from StewMac, so I just used a piece of this: M-D Building Products 3-1/2 in. x 36 in. Oak Low-Rug Door Threshold-11742 - The Home Depot
I have no idea what the radius is exactly, but it's slightly flatter than the fretboards on my other basses. If "normal" is 12", this might be 14" or 15".
Again, I was cheap and didn't spend the big money on a real fretsaw. What I did get, at the local Woodcraft for $25 is a "Sharksaw" fine-cut pull-saw, with a 0.024mm blade. I did buy StewMac fret-wire, with a tang at 0.0232mm... So the fret fitment isn't quite perfect. Not to mention, I did the slotting mostly freehand, with that jig for alignment and a speed-square for a guide. It took about two weeks with dry-time and clamping, but with some professional-grade superglue (the only actual cyanoacrylate glue I could find at a hardware store), all 26 frets are now firmly in place. Held alongside my Carvin bass, I think I'm going to be pretty good on intonation. Of course, this is my biggest fear; I don't want to do all this work and be left with an instrument that can't be properly tuned.
Frets were filed, neck shaped, and headstock cut/drilled. Sanded the maple up to 800-grit, then I found the side-inlays I forgot I bought. I really need to remember to do that.
The body took a lot of work. The crappy band-saw blade I used to cut most of the body left severe burn marks and a lot of jagged lines. I tried a sanding drum on a drill-press, but it was too much of a fight with it so rough. Lots of 60-grit, beer, and patience. I think the body has been sanded up to 800-grit as well.
Next up is sorting out the electronics and a test-assembly before I do any finishing work. The problem is, I'm not sure what all I have... There are two EMG 35-DC's and some kind of EMG wiring kit missing half the knobs. One of my 35-DC's is a modern EMG model, the other is the older type that still requires soldering. I have no idea what I actually have here, or if it will even work. According to one of the instruction sheets I have, I think all I need is a toggle switch. Maybe also another volume knob... My intent is 4-knobs, with separate bridge/neck volumes, master tone, and a pickup switch.
Projects are a lot easier when you keep working on them, and not shelve them for years between houses.
Cocobolo fretboard, radiused and sanded to 1500-grit.
I didn't feel like spending $40+ on a curved block of wood from StewMac, so I just used a piece of this: M-D Building Products 3-1/2 in. x 36 in. Oak Low-Rug Door Threshold-11742 - The Home Depot
I have no idea what the radius is exactly, but it's slightly flatter than the fretboards on my other basses. If "normal" is 12", this might be 14" or 15".
Again, I was cheap and didn't spend the big money on a real fretsaw. What I did get, at the local Woodcraft for $25 is a "Sharksaw" fine-cut pull-saw, with a 0.024mm blade. I did buy StewMac fret-wire, with a tang at 0.0232mm... So the fret fitment isn't quite perfect. Not to mention, I did the slotting mostly freehand, with that jig for alignment and a speed-square for a guide. It took about two weeks with dry-time and clamping, but with some professional-grade superglue (the only actual cyanoacrylate glue I could find at a hardware store), all 26 frets are now firmly in place. Held alongside my Carvin bass, I think I'm going to be pretty good on intonation. Of course, this is my biggest fear; I don't want to do all this work and be left with an instrument that can't be properly tuned.
Frets were filed, neck shaped, and headstock cut/drilled. Sanded the maple up to 800-grit, then I found the side-inlays I forgot I bought. I really need to remember to do that.
The body took a lot of work. The crappy band-saw blade I used to cut most of the body left severe burn marks and a lot of jagged lines. I tried a sanding drum on a drill-press, but it was too much of a fight with it so rough. Lots of 60-grit, beer, and patience. I think the body has been sanded up to 800-grit as well.
Next up is sorting out the electronics and a test-assembly before I do any finishing work. The problem is, I'm not sure what all I have... There are two EMG 35-DC's and some kind of EMG wiring kit missing half the knobs. One of my 35-DC's is a modern EMG model, the other is the older type that still requires soldering. I have no idea what I actually have here, or if it will even work. According to one of the instruction sheets I have, I think all I need is a toggle switch. Maybe also another volume knob... My intent is 4-knobs, with separate bridge/neck volumes, master tone, and a pickup switch.
Projects are a lot easier when you keep working on them, and not shelve them for years between houses.
