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Making a metal fretboard.

That does look nice! Here is mine

P5190557.jpg
 
John McVie played a stainless steel fingerboard fretless Alembic that I made in 1976 on "The Chain" on Rumours... I also made a couple of fretless guitars that way. They were 18 ga. stainless with the edges bent over and then filled with a wood core epoxied in. The bass also had LED side markers...
 
John McVie played a stainless steel fingerboard fretless Alembic that I made in 1976 on "The Chain" on Rumours... I also made a couple of fretless guitars that way. They were 18 ga. stainless with the edges bent over and then filled with a wood core epoxied in. The bass also had LED side markers...

It is beyond cool that you hang around here Rick. You are a hero, and an Icon for the work you have done, and continue to do. Thanks!

sorry to derail, I just find it cool...............
 
John McVie played a stainless steel fingerboard fretless Alembic that I made in 1976 on "The Chain" on Rumours... I also made a couple of fretless guitars that way. They were 18 ga. stainless with the edges bent over and then filled with a wood core epoxied in. The bass also had LED side markers...

I've been reading this thread and wondering one thing: What does the metal fingerboard do, if anything, in terms of truss adjustment? It seems to me that the difference in hardness / give between the wood and metal would make adjusting truss risky or even cause the two materials to seperate? Is this why some of the previously mentioned metal fingerboard basses did not have a truss?

Russ.
 
I would bend metal over a radiused fretboard. However, if you really want to machine a radius, you might try building a router jig. You could sand it too. Probably finish it sometime in 2012. You might also consider fiberglass.
 
Hi.

I realize that this is a long dead thread, but I was just going to echo the question asked by the last poster. How is the metal affected by the truss rod?

If You take the longitudinal cross-section of a neck, and think about the shear planes when adjusting the TR, you'll see that it's the adhesive -or other means of fixing-, not the metal that takes the load when the neck is adjusted.

On non-flexible fixing methods, the material with the least strenght gives away. With over 1mm hard material I'd say 90% of the cases it's the adhesive, 5% for the neck wood, 5% the FB itself.

Too thin a layer of metal will buckle every time, of course.

Regards
Sam