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Maple vs. Rosewood?

Then wouldn't your initial statement also be conjecture?
;)

No. In a small sample, 10% of the respondents can easily be within a three sigma standard deviation from being split down the middle, i.e., a coin flip. For a very simple example, flip a coin three times and get two heads and one tails - 66% and 33%, roughly. Does that mean that the odds will always be 2:1 that you'll get heads? Of course not, it just means that the margin of error in such a tiny sample size is very large.
 
The major difference between rosewood and maple, IME, is that when I'm on a mostly-dark stage I can see the black side marker dots against a maple fretboard much easier than I can see the white side marker dots against a rosewood fretboard.

OTOH, I can see my light fingers better against a dark rosewood fingerboard, regardless of the stage lighting...
Again, matter of preference...
 
Yeah, I got an add-on set from FretFX (http://www.fretfx.com/), and they are great! My Epic 5 has these tiny side dots that I can barely see without reading glasses (yeah, I'm an old fart), and in low light they just freakin' disappear. I've had my FretFX LED side dots for over a year now, and they work fine and hold up very well.

I've been thinking about getting those FretFX LEDs, and have been wondering if it would get in the way if I'm the type to let my thumb hang over the fingerboard? Yes I know, it's a bad habit, but I just feel more comfortable that way.
 
I've been thinking about getting those FretFX LEDs, and have been wondering if it would get in the way if I'm the type to let my thumb hang over the fingerboard? Yes I know, it's a bad habit, but I just feel more comfortable that way.

I play the same way a lot of the time, and it doesn't bother me at all. The plastic strip that the LED's are mounted in is very thin and tapered well at the edges.
 
The other difference is feel and looks.
I personally don't care for the feel of a maple fingerboard.
Other people love them.

I agree, to me the major difference (one that I can really tell) is the feel. I slightly prefer the unfinnished feel of Rosewood (or ebony) over the maple -- especially if my hands are sweating.

The only other thing I can think of, is wear. The finish of the maple may start to show wear a bit sooner then what a rosewood or ebony board would. There may also be an issue of some of the finish getting into the grooves of the strings -- but I can't say that I've ever had, or even heard of this being a "problem".

So basicaly, go with what you think feels better and/or looks better.
 
That's interesting, because Invalid Link Removed.

So many people love to say that maple is brighter because it's harder. Maybe maple is brighter, but it isn't harder.

My experience, after doing my best to listen with my ears and not my eyes, is that maple is brighter some of the time... and that rosewood is brighter some of the time (even in all-else-being-equal comparisons). My conclusion is that it's a crapshoot (to borrow Rumblin' Man's term).


+1 Some varieties of RW are very hard and some varieties of maple are quite soft (and this even varies depending on the Janka scale tables from site to site on the wood forums, etc.) 'Hard' was probably not the most accurate term to use... it's more of the feel of the wood.. the open grain and somewhat oily feel of madagascar or Brazilian Rosewood is quite different from the 'hard' shiny, smooth texture of maple or morado. I believe RW can benifit from oiling occasionally, whereas maple is pretty much 'maintenance' free. That open grain and oily feel gives the impession of a softer wood, as does the feel and, in some instances the tone and attack.

That being said, we are all saying the same thing.... it's rare that a single component of a bass can totally define it's tone, but each piece seems to work together, and on average, have a very general tone profile that can help build the tone you want.

And for those of you who need to look at top or side dots when playing... time to practice more:p
 
IME, most maple fingerboards have a finish on them, most RW don't.

:confused:... what kind of finish? While my Celinder has a poly finish on it, I don't believe the majority of maple boards have any finish on them. I could be wrong, but I don't believe the maple boards on Sadowsky's, MTD's, Skjolds, Alleva's, Laklands, etc. have a finish.

I could be wrong though!
 
:confused:... what kind of finish? While my Celinder has a poly finish on it, I don't believe the majority of maple boards have any finish on them. I could be wrong, but I don't believe the maple boards on Sadowsky's, MTD's, Skjolds, Alleva's, Laklands, etc. have a finish.

I could be wrong though!

Nearly all maple boards are finished or sealed in some way. If they weren't, they'd quickly get dirty. You can see where the nitro finish has worn off of my Sadowsky neck. The discoloration would happen to the top of the board if it wasn't finished.

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:confused:... what kind of finish? While my Celinder has a poly finish on it, I don't believe the majority of maple boards have any finish on them. I could be wrong, but I don't believe the maple boards on Sadowsky's, MTD's, Skjolds, Alleva's, Laklands, etc. have a finish.

I could be wrong though!

For example, check any Fender bass or guitar with a maple fingerboard, they all have a finish, the recent ones have a satin or flat finish. One of the reasons Leo Fender went to rosewood was because the finish would wear off the maple, get dirty and look bad.

Like this:

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Interesting. I did not realize that. Learn something new every day.

I guess that's one of the reasons I like maple so much... maintenance free. I did not realize that was because of the finish.. just through the wood was less porous in general.

Cool!