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Markbass power handling

#21
I would have to think that there's just too much low end coming from either the amp or the preamp in the bass.

I gigged a lot in a decently loud band with just a Little Mark 800 (non tube) and Traveler 102. I kept all the EQ knobs at 1:00, filter knobs at 0, and used a passive P bass. I want to say my volume and gain were both around 10:00. I never had the problem OP is describing. Now obviously I didn't have the low end up very high, and no preamp on the bass potentially pushing too much low end either. A 210 can get LOUD but it can't push a ton of lows at the same time. If you want stage volume you have to lean on your midrange more and back that low end off. For me it was fine because I don't like a ton of low end in my sound. But if you really want the power in the bottom end you'll need to add another 210.
 
#23
I have this same exact problem with my markbass 210 combo, I think it’s the cmd210p or something. Anyway, it’s the kickback 2x10 combo they make. The head in there (combo head 2 and or little mark 3). I think is 300w 8 ohms and and 500w at 4 ohms. The speakers with flap when I get anywhere over 6 or so on volume. I’ve never plugged an extension cab in. I always just thought I got a lemon. Hate to hear you have this issue, but glad you brought it up. Kinda sucks that the only solution is to have to fork over more money for an extension cab when the speakers in this self contained amp aren’t beefy enough to handle it
 
#24
HappyFunTime69 said:
I have this same exact problem with my markbass 210 combo... Kinda sucks that the only solution is to have to fork over more money for an extension cab when the speakers in this self contained amp aren’t beefy enough to handle it
Click to expand...

Choosing the right head for a cab, or right cab for a head is one thing, but a combo amp is a totally different thing. You should have the expectation that you should be able to turn any knob at all on your combo to any setting and it should work properly. Volume at 10 if you want it there, along with bass at 10 and VLE at 10 etc etc. Now it's not to say you should expect constant prolonged slamming low B is going to sound good let alone stay within the thermal needs of the cab section, but fact is pick a combo from another manufacturer, crank the volume and bass, and it will 'work' in the sense that it won't turn your speaker cones into pretzels. Probably won't sound great but it will be intact afterwards. The head and cab section of your combo should be properly matched to allow it to perform together and if it doesn't you have a warranty issue.

In the real world however, this is typical of Mark drivers whether or not they are part of a combo. That's why I won't buy one. Maybe it's all the yellow.
 
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#25
cheechi said:
Choosing the right head for a cab, or right cab for a head is one thing, but a combo amp is a totally different thing. You should have the expectation that you should be able to turn any knob at all on your combo to any setting and it should work properly. Volume at 10 if you want it there, along with bass at 10 and VLE at 10 etc etc. Now it's not to say you should expect constant prolonged slamming low B is going to sound good let alone stay within the thermal needs of the cab section, but fact is pick a combo from another manufacturer, crank the volume and bass, and it will 'work' in the sense that it won't turn your speaker cones into pretzels. Probably won't sound great but it will be intact afterwards. The head and cab section of your combo should be properly matched to allow it to perform together and if it doesn't you have a warranty issue.

In the real world however, this is typical of Mark drivers whether or not they are part of a combo. That's why I won't buy one. Maybe it's all the yellow.
Click to expand...
I disagree. There are many combos that sound terrible and can damage speakers if abused in the way you suggest, just like there are many cars where the speedometer goes to 120MPH or 140MPH yet the car won't in any way hold up at those speeds (if it could even get close).
 
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#26
in that case, I feel that those combos are also poorly designed and the manufacturer should be responsible for loading them with drivers appropriate to the head's power.

I understand your point and I agree with you generally. The majority of car manufacturers use a fuel cut when you reach a set speed, in effect you have reached 10 on the volume knob so they are capable of working. If the cones are tearing away from the basket at only 6, no such safeguard is in place. This is the fundamental difference and the basis for my assertion.
 
#27
cheechi said:
in that case, I feel that those combos are also poorly designed and the manufacturer should be responsible for loading them with drivers appropriate to the head's power.

I understand your point and I agree with you generally. The majority of car manufacturers use a fuel cut when you reach a set speed, in effect you have reached 10 on the volume knob so they are capable of working. If the cones are tearing away from the basket at only 6, no such safeguard is in place. This is the fundamental difference and the basis for my assertion.
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I suppose there is an argument for protecting against user abuse and stupidity, why not extend it to "hey, it's a combo and it should survive being dropped down the stairs since that could happen as well"?

Perhaps you aren't aware that many amps are capable of delivering almost 2x their rated power under stupid overdrive conditions, so in this case the cost of the combo would increase to cover the stupidity of the very few.

Governors on cars is common now (though not always), but then you get the rest of the crowd screaming that they paid for 120MPH therefore the car should do 120MPH, right?

Sometimes, Darwin is right and the natural course of events should be allowed to happen.
 
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#28
Yes I am aware. The bigger picture however is that there is a posted speed limit anywhere you operate a car other than a race track and there are plenty of rules, equipment & procedures that do the best to protect the track's insurance policy and its staff from Darwin. Automobiles aren't sold with skateboard wheels. Any number of statements could be made to compare that a given car is designed reasonably within its intended usage, acknowledging that specific examples can be provided to prove or disprove any point or analogy.

Perhaps a better analogy is the red numbers on the tach. My truck red lines at 6k. I can rev it to and even past 6k without it blowing up, but nearly all cars also have a rev limiter to prevent the extremely high revs that could cause it to rattle itself apart or spin bearings. I shift at 3k or 3500 depending on the road. I know however that I could choose to shift at 4k, 5k or even take it to 6 if I really wanted to. If you want to put a volume knob that goes from 0 to 10 and make 6 the red line, I guess you could do that. They should have made the output at 6 be where the knob stops and put the numbers closer together if it can't go past 6 safely.

Music education does not include an EE degree. I think there is a reasonable responsibility by the manufacturer of MI amps to provide users a product they can not 'abuse' by turning the knobs provided by the manufacturer. Yes if you connect a pedal or a signal too hot from an external preamp and clip your cones to shreds that's different. My opinion, optimistic as it may be, is that a combo amp should include drivers capable of handling whatever the amp can output in its stock, as sold state. That state with a SS power section is going to be the lesser of its two ratings. If your cab section is not capable of the lesser rating of a 200-300W head either you need more cab or less head, within the combo. Poorly designed combo amp should never be a reason to buy an extension cab, but I feel in the case of Markbass it is a great excuse to sell an extension cab.

Perhaps my experience is not typical of combo amp owners, but it gave me the foundation of my expectations. Some manufacturers can handle this without any issue.

Again in the case of 'not enough cab' for a separate head & cab situation, I am 100% with you. It's your responsibility as the buyer to buy the right pieces and use them properly. If you sell a combo though, I feel that invalidates the argument of not enough cab for the output and puts the responsibility squarely on the manufacturer.
 
#29
Where that theory gets us, though, is combos with speakers with enormous capacity. Which in turn means those of us who size our amps with plenty of headroom for the job in hand are carrying about a whole lot of completely pointless weight and money.
 
#30
What this means is that if you design a combo for players with even a little bit of common sense and good judgement, that's not good enough to make it totally idiot proof.

Ever read the required warnings in an owner's manual? Yes, apparently there are a few people THAT stupid, scary stupid!
 
#32
cheechi said:
In the real world however, this is typical of Mark drivers whether or not they are part of a combo. That's why I won't buy one. Maybe it's all the yellow.
Click to expand...

I use markbass cabs at the local rehearsal studio, and while I think they are a little mid-pronounced, a little EQ gets them to sound great. More importantly, these cabs and the Little Mark heads get cranked all day long day after day after day and never need to be serviced. And some of the stuff is over 10 years old and still going strong.
 
#33
I am glad for you, and I hope that gear lasts forever for you. The mids are what I like most about the Mark sound.

Perhaps the difference is the age of yours, perhaps it is products made for the Italian vs American markets, perhaps there are other factors. When Markbass first came out, they were very popular and due to their size well loved. Since then many have soured on Markbass products across the board. I have a few older products but every cab I have encountered gives me the impression it's not a long term investment. Sometimes it's hard to know how much abuse something has had from a short time playing it, or from looking at it.

There may be several great cabs that i'm dismissing across the board at my own expense. However, unless you can reconcile why you can crank your head through your cabs and others in this thread can't, they are too big of a question mark to invest in.
 
#34
Just to be be clear, I am no idiot. I’ve been playing bass for over 20 years, do not abuse my gear, I have a audio engineering degree as well as a bachelors in music performance, read the manual, and have had and used my markbass combo for the past 7 years. I’m not turning all
The knobs to 11 and expecting the sound of the gods to come out. Actually I’m quite reserved with my knob twiddling, and have had the cab so long exactly because I don’t push it past it’s comfort zone. That being said, I can’t use this combo in a full band situation. It gets cranky
Very quickly, so I don’t. And at over $1000 new for 2x10 combo, one would hope that it might be a bit over engineered, the price tag certainly suggests that. Meanwhile, I have to use a Micro Thumpinator in front because there is no sub sonic filter Within the circuitry of the head.
 

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