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Matt Pulcinella Basses

#42
Brad Johnson said:
We all could;)

In AJ's case, I doubt he's concerned about string noise when soloed becuase of how good it sounds in the mix.
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I agree with both statements.

I actually do like a bit of string and fret noise, kind of in the same way I like the sound of the keys on a Rhodes, but I like to be able to control the timbre of the noise with a passive tone.

OK, really sorry to have derailed this thread on Matt's fine basses.
 
#43
I just picked up a used level 6 that is crap. It arrived with very little wear and tear, but a stripped trussrod nut, bowed neck, and the electronics don't work. I called up Matt, and he said "what do you want me to do?", then told me the trussrod nut can't be replaced. I should file down a larger allen wrench and wedge it in. It's a very bad design. Not a thing one needs to deal with on the road. I had hoped he would look at it as his name is on the instrument, but no chance. I'll never buy anything from him with that kind of vibe...
 
#44
brooklynbassguy said:
I just picked up a used level 6 that is crap. It arrived with very little wear and tear, but a stripped trussrod nut, bowed neck, and the electronics don't work. I called up Matt, and he said "what do you want me to do?", then told me the trussrod nut can't be replaced. I should file down a larger allen wrench and wedge it in. It's a very bad design. Not a thing one needs to deal with on the road. I had hoped he would look at it as his name is on the instrument, but no chance. I'll never buy anything from him with that kind of vibe...
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Hmm, which Level 6 did you get? Is it an early one? The problems you describe seem more like abuse from the previous owner(s) than crappy design. My Level 6 was certainly not crap, in fact it was quite solid.

I'm pretty sure the truss rod can't be replaced in any neck once it's stripped, but I guess Matt could've offered to replace the neck at a discounted rate or something. That is weird if he was unwilling to look at it, though -- Matt's customer service has always been good in my experience.
 
#45
Replacing a truss rod is somewhat like replacing the head gasket on your car. I don't know of anyone that has a clean design that allows easy replacement of the truss rod. Since the nut is stripped, it sounds like the previous owner cranked the hell out of it and broke it. You really need to gripe to the previous owner and get your money back.
 
#48
cybersnyder said:
Since the nut is stripped, it sounds like the previous owner cranked the hell out of it and broke it. You really need to gripe to the previous owner and get your money back.
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+1. I would also call Matt P. and ask what he would charge to replace the neck. If he doesn't want to deal with it, the fault is with the seller, not the builder...especially if it's *years* old.
 
#49
brooklynbassguy said:
There are quite a few makers thats that use easily replacable trussrod adjustment. Warwick trussrods can be swapped out on the bass in 3 minutes. I was quite surprised by Matt's response :mad: , but there's lots of other fish in the ocean...
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Didn't know that about Warwick basses. But apparently, they stopped using the replaceable truss rod.

From their manual:

Warwick Removable 2-way Truss Rod: This truss rod appears in some bolt-on necks from 1992 through
January 1996, and some neck-through models from 1992 through 1998. Adjustment should be made in
the same manner listed above, but in ¼ turn increments. Because this truss rod is removable, a few have
been installed or reinstalled “upside down”, necessitating adjustments in the opposite directions of what
would normally be expected. This had originally been done to mimic the effects of the original lefthanded
threaded truss rod, as to not confuse owners of older models.

Original Removable Truss Rod: This can be found on models made in the 1980’s through some as late as
1998. The threads allow tightening of this rod only to the left, which may seem somewhat
counterintuitive to some. If the adjustment nut comes off when turned clockwise, it is a sure sign that
your bass has been fitted with this type of truss rod. The effects of tightening this truss rod depend on
whether it has been installed with the threaded side up or down.
 
#50
I haven't had to change a warwick trussrod in some years, and it was only to upgrade to a beefier unit. I'll definitely pursue this this through ebay. I travel all over the planet, and have had numerous instruments. It normal to make trussrod adjustments. I've never seen such an inadequate set up before this one...
 
#52
Aram said:
I agree with both statements.

I actually do like a bit of string and fret noise, kind of in the same way I like the sound of the keys on a Rhodes, but I like to be able to control the timbre of the noise with a passive tone.

OK, really sorry to have derailed this thread on Matt's fine basses.
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Apparently I don't get as noticeable an amount of string noise as AJ but I do use fret noise as part of my arsenal. Very controllable fret noise... I only get it when I want it;)
 
#54
Basso Gruvitas said:
What if I kept the Bart soapbars and added an Aggie 3-band? What do you guys think?

Or should I try a Demeter pre?

I'm pretty open to trying stuff but don't want it to sound like "Martian Bass!" I have an ash body/maple neck so the SD/Demeter combo might be very cool. That's the same electronics as the Bass Player Mag bass.
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I have an Ash bass from another builder with Maple neck/board that has Bart soaps and an OBP-3 and I love it. Tons of growl and very aggressive yet full-bodied slap sound.
 
#55
My point is getting a used one leaves you on your own as far as any kind of repair from the manufacterer would be concerned. There is a reason why certain boutique instruments can command high resale prices and it all about the support from the maker.
Also alnico pickups do have a certain growl and funk to them that the ceramics don't have...
 

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