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Double Bass Matthew's Double Bass Building Project

#2
That's very cool. :cool:

At one point I had a separate section made up for asking questions on my forum site. I allowed guests to post only in one separate thread, they were unable to post in my pictorials or start their own topics to keep it from getting cluttered. I got board with it and removed it eventually. I could help you set that up, I think I remember how I did it.
 
#4
That's what Harry asked!

I intended to unscrew the top of the mould, put the linings in, put the back on, turn the thing over, unscrew the front, put the linings in ... there's enough space left at the edges of the internal braces to glue the linings in there.

Will that work? what would you suggest?
 
#5
M_A_T_T said:
At one point I had a separate section made up for asking questions on my forum
Click to expand...

I WAS going to post the progress on this site, but 1. Blogs sort only in reverse order and 2. there's no way of restricting posts to my progress log.

Paul suggested I use the "in progress" forum on the BG side of the board but nah, rather stick with DB ...
 
#6
Matthew Tucker said:
That's what Harry asked!

I intended to unscrew the top of the mould, put the linings in, put the back on, turn the thing over, unscrew the front, put the linings in ... there's enough space left at the edges of the internal braces to glue the linings in there.

Will that work? what would you suggest?
Click to expand...

Putting the linings on while the rib structure is attached to the mold is a lot easier, ime. A rib structure without a mold and without linings is very very fragile... gluing in the linings (before removing the mold) is a needed layer of insurance.

You would need to narrow the spacing of the front and back layers of your mold. Leave a 25mm overhang of corner block. Linings are usually 15-20mm.
 
#8
nicklloyd said:
A rib structure without a mold and without linings is very very fragile... gluing in the linings (before removing the mold) is a needed layer of insurance..
Click to expand...

Point taken, but one side of the ribs will be attached at any one time, and the blocks are held firmly by the frame until all the linings are in place. Will it be that fragile? If I do it as you suggest and thin the mold to allow 25mm projection, how do I ensure the ribs are trimmed straight and to size? And don't the ribs get a bump where they ride over the frame an inch from the edge?
 
#9
Matthew Tucker said:
Point taken, but one side of the ribs will be attached at any one time, and the blocks are held firmly by the frame until all the linings are in place. Will it be that fragile?
Click to expand...

Aha... no problems there... I had to read and re-read your original post... make it so.
 
#10
basswraith said:
What are modern bass makers thoughts about the graduations Chandler has to offer in his blue prints? Are they realistic? Too thick , too thin?
Just curious.
Click to expand...
They look reasonable to me. Keep in mind everyone's concept is a bit different, and a lot depends on the wood. Its hardness, grain width, weight and flexibility have to be taken into account while carving. Also the height and position of the arching. And it makes a difference what the intended use of the instrument will be.
 
#16
I just wanted to say thanks very much for posting all this--it's fascinating to read and to watch the process

I've made a few instruments, all solid bodies, annd have carved the top arch on the top plate of an archtop guitar and done some of the jigs and fixtures, but I'm stalled. It's great to see this much more difficult project taking shape
 

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