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medium scale extra light strings?

I'm sure you've already measured for your own knowledge, but could you share the length between nut and E-string tuning post here? It could be useful for future, prospective buyers of the Traveler Guitars Ultra-Light Bass.
^ (Hence my spelling out the model name, so that it can come up in forum searches.)
Worth repeating for string suggestions. I'm sure no one wants any tapered bit of a string, or silk if silked, extending into the nut slots and over the fretboard. And of course the max to the lowest string tuner is always good too, particularly with the guitarish tuners on some short scale basses, like the OP's
 
Given the flexability of these strings and no real need to worry bout taper, couldn't you use the 089 068 53 and 43 from the long scale 5iver set. Assuming the 089 non taper went through the tuning peg hole Something I've been considering for a Hofner shorty violin bass if I got one. I normally wouldn't consider rounds at all, but I hear the TI rounds are pretty smooth.

And regarding taper and tuning posts, either small diameter posts with guitarish holes or humungus long scale string guages and too big non taper for even fenderish tuners, you can always remove some wrap(s) and create a custom winding length. I did it succesfully for my Mikro following this thread method in order to use a Chrome 132 on it https://www.talkbass.com/threads/diy-making-short-scale-strings-out-of-long-scale-strings.1549282/

Why would you want to use the long scale set when the short scale (32") is a much better perfect fit? Am I missing something here???

You're assuming the non-tapered part of the strings goes through the hole in the tuner shaft, but it won't on the bass the OP is referring to.

The TI Jazz Rounds short scale sets are a good match for Höfner violin basses. Why would you want to use the long scale set, which is NOT a good match? I doubt if you would be able to install the long scale set at all as I'm not sure the .089 E-string would fit through the hole in the tuner shaft. At least if we're talking about a real Höfner that uses real Höfner-style tuners. Also, the long scale set will give you an overall lower tension than the short scale set, and overall floppier strings. These are VERY light tension stings so going even lighter by using the long scale set doesn't make sense to me at all (if they can even be installed).

Removing some of the wrapping is not a good idea on these strings. TI Jazz Rounds are round core strings (and need to be installed accordingly, crimp or bend 90 degrees before cutting them or they may unravel). If you start to remove the wrapping the strings will most likely disintegrate completely.
 
got a model number or url?



i've talked to them about this a couple times, and at the time they weren't making custom strings except for long scale. if they offer custom sets in medium and short scale, that would be good to know. i get my customs from newtone.
Screenshot_20240313-052851.png
 
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Why would you want to use the long scale set when the short scale (32") is a much better perfect fit? Am I missing something here???

You're assuming the non-tapered part of the strings goes through the hole in the tuner shaft, but it won't on the bass the OP is referring to.

The TI Jazz Rounds short scale sets are a good match for Höfner violin basses. Why would you want to use the long scale set, which is NOT a good match? I doubt if you would be able to install the long scale set at all as I'm not sure the .089 E-string would fit through the hole in the tuner shaft. At least if we're talking about a real Höfner that uses real Höfner-style tuners. Also, the long scale set will give you an overall lower tension than the short scale set, and overall floppier strings. These are VERY light tension stings so going even lighter by using the long scale set doesn't make sense to me at all (if they can even be installed).

Removing some of the wrapping is not a good idea on these strings. TI Jazz Rounds are round core strings (and need to be installed accordingly, crimp or bend 90 degrees before cutting them or they may unravel). If you start to remove the wrapping the strings will most likely disintegrate completely.

The differences in tension between the long and short is pretty insignificant for E and A. D is slightly more tension in the short scale than the long, whilst the G is a little less than the long scale. Anyhow using longs is a moot point ,if, as you say , the 089 non tapered section of string wouldn't go in the tuner hole. As to shortening, I prob should have said TI strings might not be the best candidates for customising a winding length and taper and I wasn't thinking of them specifically in mentioning Mr Castro's thread. Less 'delicate' strings are definetly candidates for customising a taper though I've done it succesfully with Chromes, La Bellas 760FM, XL nickels and Dunlop flats
 
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I'm sure you've already measured for your own knowledge, but could you share the length between nut and E-string tuning post here? It could be useful for future, prospective buyers of the Traveler Guitars Ultra-Light Bass.
^ (Hence my spelling out the model name, so that it can come up in forum searches.)

i'd say it's 26 3/4" from the nut to the E tuning peg.

and good for you for writing out the name completely for google searches.
 
I think @HaphAsSard was asking about the distance from the ball end to the nut, which is the minimum winding length you would need. And the distance from the ball end to the E tuner peg would be the maximum winding length you would want ideally.

i'm getting 37 and about 1/3 inches, but my stiff tape measure didn't like curving over the body. i can re-measure with a soft tape measure, but it'll be easier when ariex is home. measuring around the body is a pain.
 
i'm getting 37 and about 1/3 inches, but my stiff tape measure didn't like curving over the body. i can re-measure with a soft tape measure, but it'll be easier when ariex is home. measuring around the body is a pain.

I'm starting to think this particular bass, although it's classified as "medium scale", actually needs "long scale" strings due to the "around the body" stringing design. The longest of "medium scale" strings (35.5" winding) may not be long enough to go around the body just like some "short scale" basses, such as the Mustang, need "medium scale" strings due to the "thru-body" design.
 
This is fine for a flexible string. But there are situations where taking into account the winding length vis a vis the lowest string tuning post is not 'misinformed'. Good luck wrapping some non tapered extra stiff flat like a Jamerson or a Roto77 string around the lowest string tuning post. Better safe than sorry in those situations. I realise the OP isn't talking about that kind of scenario here

Indeed, we're all victims of physics.
 
It depends on the bass, more specifically the size of the tuner posts. Wrapping the full winding of a roundwound is usually not a problem with big, Fender-style tuner posts, but it can be problematic on smaller and skinnier tuner posts.
My hybrid guitar + bass is using guitar sized tuning pegs. I am able to use 0.095 GHS Precision flat wounds, DAddario tape wound .105 and they just told me, LaBella tapes at .110 would work. On top of this..It is string through and tuned up a third to G. Fan fret and the lowest string is at 29.5 scale. This defies all TB string myths.
 

I just took a close look at the pic and realized two things... It's a headless bass, and the tuning pegs are at the back of the body with the strings going all the way around the bottom of the body to the back.

The chances are this bass actually can take "long scale" strings with no issues.
 
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i'd say it's 26 3/4" from the nut to the E tuning peg.

and good for you for writing out the name completely for google searches.
I think @HaphAsSard was asking about the distance from the ball end to the nut, which is the minimum winding length you would need. And the distance from the ball end to the E tuner peg would be the maximum winding length you would want ideally.
i'm getting 37 and about 1/3 inches, but my stiff tape measure didn't like curving over the body. i can re-measure with a soft tape measure, but it'll be easier when ariex is home. measuring around the body is a pain.
One thing you could do is lay an old bass string onto the currently-installed low E, all the way around the, uh, cylinder? and up (back?) to the tuning post. Then take it off, straighten, measure with the stiff tape.
The reason why I ask is to ascertain the chance long-scale strings fit. Which would open up a faaar wider range of options.
 
I absolutely despise Rotowound strings, but I do have a weird thing about trying to match silk color to bass color (where possible). I mistakenly ended up with a set of Roto lights gauge mediums (32") and also happened to send up with a Squire Jag bass in LPB, so it turned out to be a perfect match. I'm usually a 45-105 guy, but these have worked out OK.

If you're looking for 35-95, this is probably the set for you...at least to try. :thumbsup:

Ha! I have been known to place emphasis on color coordination as well. I also am not a big fan of roto sounds, but I did play them regularly years ago so this was a fun stroll down memory lane.