• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Metal Insert for Strap Button

To be sure...which is why I'll never be able to play that mangled POS bass again without my cheeks flaming red with shame from the constant reminder of my ignorance right there in my hands for the whole world to see, or at least the three people who turn out to hear us play.

Sadly enough I've got 2 other basses I've also ruined using the same method to install strap lock buttons. No problems yet...but I'm sure they will be along any minute now.

At least I quit peeling apples counter clockwise so progress has been made against my preference for inferior methods, however small it may be.

Did you notice that the apple just did not taste as good peeled counter clockwise?
 
Did you notice that the apple just did not taste as good peeled counter clockwise?

To be honest I couldn't tell any difference in taste of the apples, speed of peeling, etc. In the end, no matter how I did it, I wound up with an apple sans peel.

I changed the way I peel apples because some expert said my method was inferior and I didn't want to be thought ignorant, so I went along.

He was an expert apple peeler after all, so who am I to question his wisdom?
 
FWIW, they sell those inserts at Lowes, Woodcraft, and most hardware stores. They aren't terribly hard to install, and if you have a machine screw interface, you won't need a long screw to stay secure.

But yeah, I've fixed a lot of holes with picks n glue!
 
Which seems to be contradicted by Thread Inserts for Hard Wood by E-Z LOK

What am I missing?

Looking at the options for those inserts, it appears to me that there are inserts available in sizes that should provide a good solid anchor. If they're larger in diameter than a basic strap button screw, I don't think it matters much because the strap end would cover it.

IMO using a threaded insert may be a viable idea. The key is that you would need to get one long enough to provide a good anchor, and be very careful when drilling the correct size hole. If you drilled too small a hole for the insert, turning it in might split the wood on the body. Those sharp-threaded inserts look like a pretty good option that would tend not to split wood and would be very stable when installed. Add a bolt and washer to hold the strap on, and there you are.

I don't change straps on basses - I have a strap for each bass - so fastening a strap on in a manner that would take time to change would be fine with me.
 
Re: "The key is that you would need to get one long enough to provide a good anchor"
use 2 of them end-to-end- it won't tend to 'pivot' in the middle under stress and strain.

Re: "Thread Inserts for Hard Wood by E-Z LOK"
Mostly, the loose strap locks are NOT in hard wood, that's why there's sometimes a problem.

If a long screw gets worked loose under stress, how's a short, little insert gonna be any better?
 
My J bass strap pulled out of the bass. I think it is beyond the point of the toothpick trick to fix it. I know some people get wooden plugs and re-drill but is it possible to get an insert similar to the ones people use to upgrade the neck connection? It would have to be longer than the 1/4" or so ones used on a bolt on neck.
Thanks

Is the damage really that bad? Would you post a pic?

Riis
 
I read somewhere else (can't find it now) that you can get wood plugs that are different than dowls in that the grain goes the correct direction. Anyone have any info on these? I think the person in the post called them wooden plugs but I don't know if that is the correct name for it.
Thanks
You can make them yourself with a plug cutter bit (or a lathe if you have one).

I've had good luck with both toothpicks and bamboo skewers and good wood glue. I have used dowels as well. Zero issues to date with any of them I drill appropriate pilot holes and lubricate all wood screws with soap. This allows proper threading and torque without excessive friction which tends to tear fibers -helps avoid broken screw and garfed heads too.

I'm convinced the real culprits to stripped strap button holes are 1. Players ignoring loose strap button screws, 2. Replacement strap buttons installed with different diameter / thread pitch screws, 3. Improperly sized pilot holes, 4. Shenanigans.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zooberwerx