Minwax Oil Stain Mixed or Slurry?

[ThePresident777]

I'm wondering why Minwax oil stain can't be mixed with other oil finishes. Does anyone know? It will not dry? What if I add Japan Dryer?

Also, I've read that oil finishes can be sanded while still wet to create a slurry that fills pores. Couldn't the same be done with the Minwax oil stain?

 

[praisegig]

True. In most cases of using oil stains and finishes, it is best to do your coloring and clear coating in separate steps. By mixing stains into finishes, it upsets the proven formulations. Adding colorants to clears is best

Doing slurry grain fill is normally done with clears. Doing with stains defeats the purpose,as most all the pigment will be removed during the process. The slurry fill is to prep the surface for an even stain application over it

 

[ThePresident777]

True. In most cases of using oil stains and finishes, it is best to do your coloring and clear coating in separate steps. By mixing stains into finishes, it upsets the proven formulations. Adding colorants to clears is best

Doing slurry grain fill is normally done with clears. Doing with stains defeats the purpose,as most all the pigment will be removed during the process. The slurry fill is to prep the surface for an even stain application over it

I forgot to mention this, but, thinking about Danish Oil is what provoked my question. I was watching and reading stuff about oil finishes. I've read of people doing a slurry grain fill with Watco Danish Oil Dark Walnut. Someone posted their recipe for their "Danish Oil" finish. Plus, I've seen how people dye figured maple, using sanding to pile the dye into the figure for contrast in between multiple coats of alchhol or water based dye. So, I thought, "what if I mix a dark Minwax Oil stain with an oil based varnish, maybe some BLO, maybe some naphta, plus japan dryer?" Would it dry? Could I just use is for a base coat or sanding slurry and build up a clear on top for protection?

If using it as a slurry, wouldn't the color pool in the grain and pores of something like mahogany, oak, or ash? Or beat up pine? Especially if I use a black stain?

I was not thinking too much about how it would look at this stage as far as an attractive look is concerned. I was mostly focused on mechanical issues such as drying, peeling, cracking, turning to cancer pudding, or otherwise just not working in any mechanical sense. I expected some color to be left behind so that it would act as a grain high light maybe, and with BLO in the mix, possibly an amber hue or glow.


BTW, I like this look (although not crazy about the gouges in the wood):

Apparently, Charles Niel would categorize that as blotchy. But to me it's not blothcy if it follows the grain and does not obscure it. If color contrast happens because of the grain lines and is gradual where there is no grain line then it's not what I would call blotchy. It's not uniform, but also not blotchy, if grain makes the difference.

 

[rwkeating]

I wet sanded Watco Danish Oil and it filled the grain on Alder very nicely. It left a very smooth finish. I wanted to do the same on the neck and fingerboard but since they are 2 different types of wood I was afraid the darker fingerboard would end up bleeding into or staining the maple. So I didn't do any wet sanding of the neck/fingerboard.

For my next project (whenever that will be) I am thinking of wet sanding Watco for the body, but then topping it with True Oil for a bit better protection.

 

[Scoops]

I have done a tint in a slurry mixture a lot. It can be done, and you can create a nice coloration.

It can be dramatic is in the first few coats when you are filling the pores and highlighting the grain. Think of it as a tinted pore filler, much like tinted fillers you can buy. Couple big differences though. With the slurry method, you have an very broad pallet of colors to choose from as compared to off the shelf fillers. The slurry method is much more labor intensive as compared to off the shelf fillers

Cheers

 

[ThePresident777]

I have done a tint in a slurry mixture a lot. It can be done, and you can create a nice coloration.

It can be dramatic is in the first few coats when you are filling the pores and highlighting the grain. Think of it as a tinted pore filler, much like tinted fillers you can buy. Couple big differences though. With the slurry method, you have an very broad pallet of colors to choose from as compared to off the shelf fillers. The slurry method is much more labor intensive as compared to off the shelf fillers

Cheers

The slurry was oil based? What did you tint it with?

Is slurry only for porous woods like mahogany? Or can it be used on maple and pine?

 

[Scoops]

The slurry was oil based? What did you tint it with?

Is slurry only for porous woods like mahogany? Or can it be used on maple and pine?

Slurry was oil base. I've used a number of different product. Strait boiled Linseed oil, but it take forever to cure. A linseed oil/bees wax blend which also takes forever to cure. Formby Tung oil. And my personal fav, Minwax antique oil. Note that I don't use this anymore though because of the VOC's.

I've done this on Alder, Mahogany, Maple, Black Limba, Koa, Oak, Walnut and probably other woods, all with really good results.

Used Trans tint for coloration

 

[ThePresident777]

Slurry was oil base. I've used a number of different product. Strait boiled Linseed oil, but it take forever to cure. A linseed oil/bees wax blend which also takes forever to cure. Formby Tung oil. And my personal fav, Minwax antique oil. Note that I don't use this anymore though because of the VOC's.

I've done this on Alder, Mahogany, Maple, Black Limba, Koa, Oak, Walnut and probably other woods, all with really good results.

Used Trans tint for coloration

I thought trans tint was only for use in water or alcohol. Good to know that it works in oil too.

I was hoping to use Minwax penetrating stain as the slurry because it's oil based. Maybe throw in some BLO and Japan Dryer too. But, the instructions say not to mix or dilute the stain and I don't know why. And I have no idea what happens if I add Japan Dryer, let alone more than recomended.

I have a pine board that I stained with the Minwax after I raised the grain. No sanding was done. It's dry now. But I'm wondering what would happen if I did a oil slurry job on it.

What I have currently done is raise grain, sand, stain, then lacquer, on Home Cheapo common board. I've gotten some nice pieces. Tempted to hang them on the wall, lol. How's that for a hobby? Oil Stained and Varnished (or Lacquer or Shellac) Common Board, I'll take Etsy by storm. It's a nature themed art? Reminds me of Japanese water color paintings somehow.

Sanding controls the blotching very well, even 180 grit. But, I'm going for that faded look anyway so my definition of blotching is probably a little lose by professional standards.