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Modifying fingerboard radius?

Anyone ever re-shaped a fingerboard to a different radius? I have a 12" radius board on a fretless, and I'd like to get it rounder, maybe 9.25" or even vintage Fender spec, which is what, 7.25"? I'm looking for a pretty round radius.

Anyone have experience with this? The only thing is worry about is if the board (it's rosewood on a mahogany set neck) is thick enough to accommodate the curve.
 
What I would be concerned with is not the thickness of the neck, because you'll only be sanding off a very small amount of the fretboard's edges, but rather if the bridge saddles will be able to go low enough to achieve your desired action. This wouldn't be much of an an issue with a bolt-on, but with a set neck you'd be forked.
 
Remember, you are going to be removing material from the edges of the fret board and you have side dots. About
.050 for 7.25"r and about .020 for a 9.25"r. You could passably remove some of the top edge of the dots.
Other than that you will be able to change the radius.

Tedward
 
The bridge on the bass is somewhat unique - it's an old Guild JS-2, and I typically set the action medium-high, so it's got a fair bit of travel in both directions. Good thoughts from both of you, thanks! It's a lined fretless so it has dots on the top (I'd probably have the board shaped by the same shop that de-fretted it, at which they did a marvelous job) so if I lost side dots it wouldn't be the end of the world.
 
Anyone ever re-shaped a fingerboard to a different radius? I have a 12" radius board on a fretless, and I'd like to get it rounder, maybe 9.25" or even vintage Fender spec, which is what, 7.25"? I'm looking for a pretty round radius.

Anyone have experience with this? The only thing is worry about is if the board (it's rosewood on a mahogany set neck) is thick enough to accommodate the curve.

I did it on my L2K this week. It's always had a ski-jump in the fingerboard ever since I bought it new in 2000. I tried to correct it a long time ago with the old sanding block from Ace hardware thing, with predictable results :).

I went the other direction, tho, taking the stock 7.5" radius (#6 neck) to 9.5" while doing the levelling at the same time.

I agree with the other guys, the considerations are how much wood you have to remove, the effects of that on the geometry of everything else, etc. And like they said, if it's a set neck, you can't adjust the height of the board later so you have to make sure you'll have enough travel at the bridge and the PU height adjustments when it's done.

With a shorter radius, the outside strings in particular will be lower, so those saddles will really drop. Another consideration is height above the pickup - a shorter radius will make the inside strings a little higher which may make the inner strings sound different and with lower volume.

On my L2K, if I had had enough wood on the fingerboard to do it, I'd have actually gone to 12" because of the string height over the PU issue, but there wasn't enough. Oh well.

Finally, the right tools are in my opinion absolutely mandatory for doing a job like this. A neck jig and long enough radius beams really increase the likelihood of a successful outcome. Unfortunately, all that stuff can cost as much as a good bass if not more by the time you hit the "checkout" button lol.

But it's doable...

LS
 
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I drew it up in CAD, there isn't a real lot of material being removed to go from 12" radius to 9.25" (.0125") or to a 7.25" (.0276"). That was figuring at 2.00" wide on the fingerboard (I don"t know how wide your fingerboard is..) This is assuming that the "crown" of the fingerboard stays intact, and you reshape towards the edges.
 
ByQiU5MJE1SEJPFXKp3n5jJXE2zV6AFvv8XGNOYL0ao

I drew it up in CAD, there isn't a real lot of material being removed to go from 12" radius to 9.25" (.0125") or to a 7.25" (.0276"). That was figuring at 2.00" wide on the fingerboard (I don"t know how wide your fingerboard is..) This is assuming that the "crown" of the fingerboard stays intact, and you reshape towards the edges.

I defretted a 10" and recut it to an 8" for a buddy and although the side dots were destroyed, I just bound the neck and it's all good - 'gooder' if you'll let me coin the word.

I always build my own 22" long sanding blocks for every new radius I make and I've prolly got any other sizes all covered by now, using hardwood, a compass and my table router.

I've gotta cut a really small radius for a mandolin yet, but I'll get on that next week.

I flat-out refuse to buy any tools from SM.