Mono rail style bridge placement question

[thebassbuilder]

on the 5 string I am building, I am going to use those mono rail style bridge. When laying it out do I need to place the bridges to the right of center to compensate for string gauge? In theory this should help maintain an even string to fingerboard edge on the b and g string. Let me know if this is a good idea or not.

Also the end of the fingerboard is 2.75" or 70mm. Divided by 4 and it roughly 17.5mm. Do you all space your strings this far apart at the bridge or do you compensate any?

Or do I just adjust at the nut if the strings need to shift some?

This bridge does not leave much room for error, so I want to nail this the first time.

thanks

 

[bholder]

In order for the strings to be at the right width at the end of the fretboard, the saddles need to be wider. Just do the math - measure the string spacing at the nut, the spacing you want at the end of the fretboard, and then determine the width needed at the bridge using the ratio of the length of the fretboard (from the nut to the highest position) to the entire scale length. A little old geometry finally comes in handy for something.

 

[bholder]

I've been scared off of messing with monorails for that reason, fwiw. I've seen too many of them misaligned (even on major brands) to want to try it myself.

 

[bholder]

So your thinking on the offsetting to the right thing is to keep even spacing on both sides between the edge of the string and the side of the neck? Seems reasonable, not sure how to figure that out though, too late to think.

 

[thebassbuilder]

In order for the strings to be at the right width at the end of the fretboard, the saddles need to be wider. Just do the math - measure the string spacing at the nut, the spacing you want at the end of the fretboard, and then determine the width needed at the bridge using the ratio of the length of the fretboard (from the nut to the highest position) to the entire scale length. A little old geometry finally comes in handy for something.

So your thinking on the offsetting to the right thing is to keep even spacing on both sides between the edge of the string and the side of the neck? Seems reasonable, not sure how to figure that out though, too late to think.

This helped me the most. I did like you said and layer out a line from the nut to bridge, showing the amount of space to the fingerboard edge. After that I measured 17mm to the right for the other strings. This does offset them to the right just 1mm but looks to work. I am going to wait till I have a set of 5 strings before fully committing to the mount. The bridges have 3 holes in them for mounting, so I am going to use the rear one first so I can tilt them in either direction needed. Thanks and I think I am on the right track now.

 

[JustForSport]

For a 5 string, first thing I mark is a centerline.
Second, I allow for the spacing on both sides of the fingerboard, and the B and G strings go there.
Then, the E and D split that difference, between those and the centerline.
I find something firm (veneer or wood shims of equal thickness- plastic is too slippery, cardboard compresses) that can act as a spacer in the gaps between the bridges and lightly clamp them together.
Then, I measure from the body side of the nut to the saddle (scale length) for the G string which is set 1/8" back from the front of its adjustment range.
The other strings will intonate progressively farther back from that saddle.
While the bridges are clamped together with the spacers between them, you can use a straightedge along the ends and stagger them equally, or use a square if you want them straight across. The possible problem with being straight across is that the B saddle may not have enough travel avail to intonate with some strings.
(Also, if using exclusively tapered strings, you may not want it too far back). If possible, measure another bass from the nut to saddle contact points for reference.
Then use a center cutting drill bit (with a back cut) that'll just fit in the countersinks, to spin with your fingers to make a divot for the pilot holes for mounting the bridges.
If using the inexpensive import bridges, replace the mounting screws with higher quality sheet metal type screws so the heads won't strip or pop off.

 

[bholder]

This helped me the most. I did like you said and layer out a line from the nut to bridge, showing the amount of space to the fingerboard edge. After that I measured 17mm to the right for the other strings. This does offset them to the right just 1mm but looks to work. I am going to wait till I have a set of 5 strings before fully committing to the mount. The bridges have 3 holes in them for mounting, so I am going to use the rear one first so I can tilt them in either direction needed. Thanks and I think I am on the right track now.

I was going to say, I don't think the monorails should be exactly parallel to each other - they should be parallel on line with each individual string, so that the string doesn't come off the saddle at a bend. Maybe I'm just being OCD / anal about it, but your approach sounds right to me - back screw first, then align with the string slot in the nut to determine the other hole positions? Not sure.

 

[Jisch]

I haven't used individual string saddles before, but I think I would want the saddles lined up parallel to each other. I know the strings are not parallel, but I highly doubt you're going to see that with the strings going across the bridges or there is going to be a kink in the string over that short distance.

 

[JustForSport]

Pretty close to parallel examples:

 

[thebassbuilder]

This is the way I am going to try and lay them out have everything be inline with the string path. Thanks for the pictures.

 

[JIO]

I've built a few basses w/mono-rails and have never had a problem. Pre rout/placement I use alignment strings and position them accordingly down the neck and over the pu's. Measure twice, cut once.