Move down a gauge for 35" Scale?

I play a .136 gauge B on a 35 inch scale.

 

It's not bad at all. Feels great and balances better with the .45-.105 set. I've never been truly happy until I tried the GHS .136 B string.

 

Try it and see if you like it.

Sometimes on my 5 string Ricks I use a lighter guage strings and the Ricks are 33 1/4" and it works fine. Part of the trink of using lighter strings is to flatten out the neck more.

 

A .135 B string has about the same tension as a .100 E string, so not as taught as you might think.

I personally don't like anything less than .135 on my 35" scale basses. I wish DR would step it up and make some .135 nickels, that's the only reason I don't use DR on my 5 strings.
So that means a .130...the biggest string DR can make in nickel..feels about like a .095 or .090 but the 35" scale will tighten it up some.

The thing to do would be to get a lighter gauge 4 string set, then get a single heavier B. Or, build your own set:
http://www.bassstringsonline.com/-DR-Nickel-LO-RIDERS-Build-your-own-Custom-String-Set_p_324.html

 

Id say no. Having owned 35 scale esp ltd F-154dx. At most is a tiny tiny bit tighter feel when strng on top rather then thru body for bridge. When done thru body is tigher feel but not gauge higher amount. Still, I preferred top load for strings.

 

IME, i only notice a difference in feel on the higher strings (D,G)
i did change from a 45-125 set of DR hibeams to a 40-120 set. had to raise the B & E a bit due to too much buzzing. personally, i prefer lighter guages as it's easier on my hands and allows me to play quicker.

 

The difference is a quarter tone, and about 2 pounds each way - you'll lose 2 pounds of tension or so going to a .130 on a 35" or gain 2 pounds with the extra scale length.

I suggest keeping the gauge the same - the extra tension is minimal and will yield (a little) more clarity.