Multi-function Fingerboard Radius Jig by LedBelli Bass Guitars

[LedBelli Bass]

I have created a completely new design of my own that will provide maximum precision and versatility when radiusing fingerboards. This jig will allow me to radius fingerboards with the grain, across the grain, or both simultaneously.

I will also be able to lock the bridge and carriage in place and use a sliding feed fixture to radius fingerboards up to any practical length a bass builder would ever want for fingerboards that run the entire length of the instrument.

I will be adding a dust collection system for use with a shop-vac or commercial dust collector.

Total time: 2 hours to design & draw; 4 1/2 hours to layout & construct

I will be adding more pictures and details as I refine the fixture.

NOTE: Since I am seldom ever on Talkbass.com the best way to follow me or contact me is at: Cleveland Johnson | Facebook

 

[LedBelli Bass]

. . .

 

[Means2nEnd]

Are you selling them?

 

[LedBelli Bass]

Are you selling them?

No, it's here for the common good.

 

[Beej]

Thanks for sharing this one Cleve - I take it, you'd make more than one bridge to accommodate different radii of the fingerboard?

I'm still using a variation of your compound radius router jig. Do you find this one to be an improvement ( other than doing extended length boards)?

 

[PDX Rich]

I really like this design. Very sleek and efficient, thanks for posting!

Are you using double-stick tape at the heel end?

 

[Arie X]

i like the refinements on the standard design. nice and clean work. thanks for sharing!

 

[LedBelli Bass]

Thanks for sharing this one Cleve - I take it, you'd make more than one bridge to accommodate different radii of the fingerboard?

I'm still using a variation of your compound radius router jig. Do you find this one to be an improvement ( other than doing extended length boards)?

Yes, to change the radius you just change the bridge or the bridge rails. In the long run I feel that it is expedient to just construct a completely new bridge for each radius you wish to use. Then changing the radius would take literally less than a few seconds.

I abandoned the compound radius two or three years ago. In that context then yes, I find this fixture to be a drastic improvement. However, I do have some ideas about how to improve the old jig also.

To answer a question from another poster, double-sided tape will work to anchor the heel of the neck, However, I am experimenting with ways to improve on that also.

 

[Scoops]

To answer a question from another poster, double-sided tape will work to anchor the heel of the neck, However, I am experimenting with ways to improve on that also.

First I'd like to say thanks for posting this as well as all the other tid bits you have posted.

I was wondering about this as well. I hate using DS tape.

If I put my thinking cap on, and I look at the pics provided, it looks like you could secure the neck at the heal through the carrier into the back of the neck, and through the head into the top of the carrier.

Beautiful!

 

[PDX Rich]

Are those brass wheels from a sliding window assembly?

 

[Deep Cat]

View attachment 770099 View attachment 770100 View attachment 770101 View attachment 770102 I have created a completely new design of my own that will provide maximum precision and versatility when radiusing fingerboards. This jig will allow me to radius fingerboards with the grain, across the grain, or both simultaneously.

I will also be able to lock the bridge and carriage in place and use a sliding feed fixture to radius fingerboards up to any practical length a bass builder would ever want for fingerboards that run the entire length of the instrument.

I will be adding a dust collection system for use with a shop-vac or commercial dust collector.

Total time: 2 hours to design & draw; 4 1/2 hours to layout & construct

I will be adding more pictures and details as I refine the fixture.

NOTE: Since I am seldom ever on Talkbass.com the best way to follow me or contact me is at: Cleveland Johnson | Facebook

Yoink!

 

[LedBelli Bass]

Are those brass wheels from a sliding window assembly?

Screen door slider wheels . . . yes, although they could just as easily be a set of cheap roller bearings with a 1/4" center hole. I may make the change later . . .

 

[LedBelli Bass]

After testing the jig on a throwaway piece of wood, I made a number of modifications

1. I widened the base channels and then I replaced the bridge casters with 3/4" aluminum sliders that run the full length of the bridge. This makes the channels self-cleaning from sawdust. (With the casters the channels would collect sawdust and the casters would start to snowball and then the bridge would ride roughly and unevenly.)
2. I added a dust collection port that adapts to a full 4" dust collection hose. Massive suction power that gets the worst of it. I will continue to modify and improve this feature as I go.
3. On the carriage I replaced the plunge base with the standard micro-adjustable base. This base is much more stable and accurate.

 

[Jonny5bass]

Way to come back with a bang! Great looking rig!

 

[Bassmanmike1]

Thanks for sharing this. Shared on my FB page too. Mikes Custom Bass

 

[LedBelli Bass]

I was able to use this jig for the first time this week and the result was amazing! Least amount of finish sanding I've ever had to do and very little mess or dust. A complete success!

 

[Bassmanmike1]

I was able to use this jig for the first time this week and the result was amazing! Least amount of finish sanding I've ever had to do and very little mess or dust. A complete success!

Cool!
Was puttering around the shop this morning and came across some closet door rollers I had forgotten about. Quite similar to the screen door rollers you used. Think they will do nicely for this little project, and lord knows I've got plenty of scrap wood laying around. As soon as the weather warms up a little I'll be getting started on this. Too cold to work out there right now!

 

[LedBelli Bass]

Stay tuned - next up I am going to design and build, using a plunge base, a bench-top overarm pin router to streamline the routing of neck pockets, and pickup & control cavities. Maybe up and running by tomorrow!

Eventually it will have neck profiling capability

 

[buzzwah]

Yes, to change the radius you just change the bridge or the bridge rails. In the long run I feel that it is expedient to just construct a completely new bridge for each radius you wish to use. Then changing the radius would take literally less than a few seconds.

I abandoned the compound radius two or three years ago. In that context then yes, I find this fixture to be a drastic improvement. However, I do have some ideas about how to improve the old jig also.

To answer a question from another poster, double-sided tape will work to anchor the heel of the neck, However, I am experimenting with ways to improve on that also.

Thanks for sharing all these wonderful jig designs, but why did you abandon the compound radius?

 

[earlysecond]

Love it, need one. Thanks for sharing it.