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Mustang Bass - Flatwound help

AND the only string manufacturer to make a flats set specifically for the Mustang. Seems like a nobrainer to start there and be /done.

that's just a matter of lenght, not a sound/tension thing. it's their 760FL set for through body and short scale, nothing to do with sound and gauge choice.

Do you have any experience with the LaBellas?

only with the Jamerson on a Precision. nice strings, but TIs are better for versatilty.

Do you think for what I'm playing they will pair nicely with the Pickup in the Mustang?

I play in both a Blues Brothers tribute band and an italian "pop" cover band (playing successful hits from the 70's, 80's and 90's of the italian scene), and the Mustang plays perfectly, because the TI Flats have enough sustain to be disguised as "mellow rounds", but can even bite hard like "bright flatwounds".

I really love them, they are my favourite strings over all.

I've tried the Rotosound Jazz77 RS77M, but the E string was too floppy and wouldn't intonate, and the G strings had issues too with intonation. the sound is "poor" compared to the Thomastik. they are the most musical strings ever.
 
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that's just a matter of lenght, not a sound/tension thing. it's their 760FL set for through body and short scale, nothing to do with sound and gauge choice.
Well, yes it does. A short scale string may have to have a different core/wrap ratio so it will not thud out, and on the Mustang in particular, the string-through body may need a taper wrap or other ball end construction so the windings are not stressed coming over the saddle. When you order a La Bella regular gauge regular scale flatwound, the question is asked if it is going to be through body or top load.
 
as I said, "it's their 760FL set for through body and short scale".

a set of 43-104 would sound the same on a Mustang or on another bass, the difference is in the tapering for through body mounting and the ball-to-silk lenght.

I've had many sets of short scale of different brands, and no one had a different tension/core-winding ratio or anything like that. they were just the same strings with different lenght.

I'm talking about Pyramid, Thomastik, D'Addario, Rotosound and GHS. I've also used long scale sets on 30" basses, and the sound was the same.

Rotosound is the only one making different strings talking about flatwound: the Jazz77 medium and short are silk smooth and come only in the 40-50-75-90.
 
I've tried the Rotosound Jazz77 RS77M, but the E string was too floppy and wouldn't intonate, and the G strings had issues too with intonation. the sound is "poor" compared to the Thomastik.

I've also had a couple of issues with E strings out of Roto 77's, not on all sets though. The rest of the set i've always been happy with but on some sets the E just sounds deader with less sustain and some intonation issues. Rotosound have always been great replacing the E though...great customer service. Personally i think the .90 E is just too thin for a short or medium length string
 
I have a small "fleet" of Fender Mustang basses and play them almost exclusively these days. However, I'm a roundwound guy, so you need to factor that in when you read my opinion:

I have the exact same model Mustang that you do with D'Addario Chromes on it. I did not put them on. The previous owner had barely changed strings before he sold it to me and they were Chromes. I had intended on switching them to rounds as soon as I got the bass. But when I got it, I didn't think they sounded bad at all. Not as zingy as I typically like (especially when I'm doing a live show), but certainly not dead and lifeless.

My biggest complaint with flats (historically) has been a complete lack of definition. It's like I can't tell my bass line from the kick drum. It just gets buried in a subsonic soup. I hate that. BUT, that has not been a problem with the Chromes so far. I can tell what I'm playing and I actually hear the notes clearly. So there is some harmonic content to the strings. Now, having said that, I still prefer my regular rounds, but I also like not having to soak the Chromes in denatured alcohol after every couple of shows (or practices) like I do with the rounds most ofthe time. The Chromes are consistent in their less bright nature, but still defined enough to satisfy my need for clarity. That has never been the case with other flats I've tried in the past. And I assume that when the Chromes start getting muddy, I can just give them the same treatment I do the rounds (alcohol) to resurrect them. But they certainly haven't died on me so quickly as rounds do. I think flats, in general, stay consistent for a longer period of time. Or so it seems.

Also, I've been toying around with the new EB Slinky (cobalt) flats on another Mustang of mine. If you are looking for a string that is fundamentally flatwound in sound but way brighter and more defined than any other flat (at least that I've heard), you might want to give these a try. So far (other than the dead A that EB is sending a replacement for), they have not lost any of their brightness. If they retain that brightness and definition in the long term, I can see these strings as being definite money savers over time. These are flats that I think I could do a show with and not wish I had played my other bass (strung with rounds) that is sitting on a stand backstage--that feeling of... god I can't wait for this song to end so I can switch basses. :)
 
Also, I've been toying around with the new EB Slinky (cobalt) flats on another Mustang of mine. If you are looking for a string that is fundamentally flatwound in sound but way brighter and more defined than any other flat (at least that I've heard), you might want to give these a try. So far (other than the dead A that EB is sending a replacement for), they have not lost any of their brightness. If they retain that brightness and definition in the long term, I can see these strings as being definite money savers over time. These are flats that I think I could do a show with and not wish I had played my other bass (strung with rounds) that is sitting on a stand backstage--that feeling of... god I can't wait for this song to end so I can switch basses. :)

Great info. I have Labella's Mustang flats on my MIJ Mustang and have been plenty happy with them but just put a set of the EB Cobalt flats on my fretless Jazz and love them. Good to know they'll do through body. Might have to throw a set on the Mustang!
 
So it appears I may in the end go with Nickel Rounds to put on the Mustang.

Does anyone have any good recommendations? I was thinking DR sunbeams. Will the short scale set work? I just want to make sure they will intonate properly.

I'd like a set that is mellow, sits well in the mix and gives you an option to be brighter (rolling the tone knob up on the bass). I'd like them to be nice on the hands too and not really rough so they rip up my fingers and frets.
 
Does anyone have any good recommendations?

right now I'm trying a set of DR Hi Beam 40-95, long scale, on my Mustang Japan, and they are really good. the scale is not an issue, because only the E string is longer than the position of the tuner, but it happens even on 34" basses. I cut it a centimeter after the beginning of the tapered part, no issues.

DR has nice balanced sets with wonderful intonation (the saddles are usually nearer the neck, confronting to hex core strings of the same gauge, and usually they are near-to-even position).

maybe the Sunbeams can be too mellow to brighten with just the tone knob. I'd go with a set of Hi Beams, and mellow it. it's easier to take away frequencies than add them.

I decided to try them after seeing this video:



he uses the short scale set, so 45-105, but personally I don't like strings bigger than 40-95 on the Mustang, so I tried a set I had at home, and it worked perfectly.

I've always used standard scale strings on this bass, and never had an issue. the big tuners are useful.

I did cut them.

roundcore strings, ad in particular Thomastik strings, are delicate, due to not only the round core, but even the silk inlay between the core and the windings. Thomastik suggest not to cut them (but on some basses is impossible), but the right way to go is like DR suggests: Invalid Link Removed

bending the string to a 90° angle and cut after the angle, to make sure that the core won't slip from the winding.

even stretching them causes issues like "dead new strings".
 
right now I'm trying a set of DR Hi Beam 40-95, long scale, on my Mustang Japan, and they are really good. the scale is not an issue, because only the E string is longer than the position of the tuner, but it happens even on 34" basses. I cut it a centimeter after the beginning of the tapered part, no issues.

DR has nice balanced sets with wonderful intonation (the saddles are usually nearer the neck, confronting to hex core strings of the same gauge, and usually they are near-to-even position).

maybe the Sunbeams can be too mellow to brighten with just the tone knob. I'd go with a set of Hi Beams, and mellow it. it's easier to take away frequencies than add them.

I decided to try them after seeing this video:



he uses the short scale set, so 45-105, but personally I don't like strings bigger than 40-95 on the Mustang, so I tried a set I had at home, and it worked perfectly.

I've always used standard scale strings on this bass, and never had an issue. the big tuners are useful.



roundcore strings, ad in particular Thomastik strings, are delicate, due to not only the round core, but even the silk inlay between the core and the windings. Thomastik suggest not to cut them (but on some basses is impossible), but the right way to go is like DR suggests: Invalid Link Removed

bending the string to a 90° angle and cut after the angle, to make sure that the core won't slip from the winding.

even stretching them causes issues like "dead new strings".

Thanks man, I'l probably do that from now on, sounds like a good idea. Any love for 35 and up scale basses? I see All these short scale posts, never about the extra longs. I love them
 
I've only tried a couple of times the Yamaha TRB1005 and the Ibanez BTB700DX. usually I prefer "vintage" instruments in terms of project, like Fender. 35" scale basses usually are modern, with pointy horns or just active electronics.

I should try a Lakland...
Yea that's true. I like them though, I haven't played a 34 scale low b that I liked however. They've always been weak. But that's just my experience, I'm sure others disagree