Yeah, it looks that way. I should've done that with my 15/6. I lined the chamber with a double layer of quilt batting. on all sides. The chamber is lined vs. stuffed. It sounds fine to me though and I've had it up pretty loud.
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My 1212/66 Build
- Thread starter 5StringPocket
- Start date
I believe stuffing is in the plans. Wouldn't hurt you to check and if so stuff it. The quilt batting is actually pretty good for stuffing.
Thanks for the comments. I'm pleased with the way it's turning out so far.
I finally got the time to mount the crossover and speakers. The crossover is large (12"w x 6"d) and heavy with those beefy inductors but it fit neatly on the port shelf. The low frequency wires were just long enough to reach those woofer terminals. I needed extensions for the midrange wires. All wiring is 14 awg stranded, twisted pair. Also, I'm sold on those Recex screws; much easier to work with than tee nuts!
Well, it took a while but here is the finished cab. I have a perforated metal grill ordered. Time to check this bad boy out!
These handles are a little unconventional and for that reason I wouldn't mass market a cab with them, but for me they are working out nicely. They are actually pretty solid with only a slight bit of flex on the back (inward-facing) surface which was fixed with 2 layers of epoxy-reinforced glass cloth. A bondo kit and 20 minutes is all it took. I wanted these 4-sided handles because of the way I need to carry this cab up and down a long flight of stairs to leave my practice space. This style handle with the 32"hx22"wx16"d dimensions makes it easy to "bear hug" this cab with one hand on a lower front corner to support the weight from underneath while grabbing a side handle with the other hand and pulling it into your chest to keep it stable. The cab is short enough to see over the top so I'm not blind walking forward. I couldn't see over a 36"high cab.
I seem to remember a post from greenboy that he used thicker foam for the 1212/6 cab. The foam is closer to 1 7/8", easy to work with, and is enough to clear the 1 1/2" bracing depth. Those speakers together have a lot of energy coming off the back side so I thought I'd try it.
It took me about 3 hours to measure, cut, and shape the pieces but it's not the first time I've used this technique. I don't have kids at home anymore and work a lot of hours so this was a nice way to unwind.
The mid chamber is just one chamber but there is a stiffening brace (1.5" deep like the others) half way down the rear wall. This can be seen in the Post #1 photo which gives a good view of the exposed bracing before the top was attached. It acts as a partial divider and helps to keep the polyfill from shifting. The chamber is filled, but not so tight as to cause cooling problems for the midrange drivers. There is a 1/4" hole drilled on either side of this for routing the midrange wires.
I finally got the time to mount the crossover and speakers. The crossover is large (12"w x 6"d) and heavy with those beefy inductors but it fit neatly on the port shelf. The low frequency wires were just long enough to reach those woofer terminals. I needed extensions for the midrange wires. All wiring is 14 awg stranded, twisted pair. Also, I'm sold on those Recex screws; much easier to work with than tee nuts!
Well, it took a while but here is the finished cab. I have a perforated metal grill ordered. Time to check this bad boy out!
Wow, looks awesome! The Intimidation Factor is definitely at 100%. 
What's the on/off switch for? Mid pad shut off?
What's the on/off switch for? Mid pad shut off?
Thanks! Yes, that's a DPDT mid-pad switch in case I decide to install a -1.8dB pad. It's easier to mount the switch during initial install than try and retrofit later. Ralf Patterson suggested I try the crossover as is before adding anything to it. The pad might not be needed. BTW Mike - great job on your 15/6/1. You even assembled your own crossover. My hat's off to you.
Thanks, I did indeed assemble my own crossovers...complete with a wiring mistake that could've blown up my amp fried the crossovers or both. But there was only one mistake and nothing blew up and it was an easy fix. So...I win!
Thanks for clarifying what the switch is for. I dig the wheels on your cab. I should've done that.
Thanks for clarifying what the switch is for. I dig the wheels on your cab. I should've done that.
Stunning job, congrats!
Have you ever seen this?
Zaph|Audio
I was considering to build yet another cab. Made one in the past with the flush mounted woofer... but I don't have it anymore and didn't have a way to test but my own ears
Have you ever seen this?
Zaph|Audio
I was considering to build yet another cab. Made one in the past with the flush mounted woofer... but I don't have it anymore and didn't have a way to test but my own ears
Triad, I checked out that Zaph Audio link about surface versus flush mounting. I understand it's more of an issue with the tweeter than the woofer but with 12mm ply and thick speaker frames it wasn't even on my radar. I didn't want the build any more complex than it already was.
I haven't gigged out with this cab yet but I've had the chance to play through it about 10 or 12 hours this week with my Carvin SB5000 and Valenti PJ5 basses and Genz Benz STL900 and SM12.0 amps. The 3012LF woofers really do take a few hours to loosen up the surrounds and break in. After 2-3 hours of playing time I found myself cutting the bass back slightly because the tone was getting a little rounder and fuller. This cab sounded very good with both basses and both amps but the rig I kept coming back to was the Carvin SB5000 with the STL900. Those single coil pickups with that fat-but-articulate Streamliner make it hard to put down.
I ended up with settings quite similar to those for my Uber 410T; high gain in at 1:00, bass at 10:30, 600 Hz mids at 2:00, and treble at noon. I had to crank the master about 1/4 turn higher because the 1212/66 is not as sensitive but when I did this cab came to life. My 3 unknowns were:
1) Will this cab have enough focus and low mid punch to go along with that low end extension?
2) Will the 3012LF have enough mid presence around 600 Hz to balance well with the Faital W6N8 mid in the crossover region?
3) Will I miss not having a tweeter?
This 1212/66 has a very nice blend of depth, focus, and punch. The 3012LF and that Faital W6N8-120 are an excellent match for each other. Ralf Patterson did a wonderful job on that crossover. The voicing is very even from the lows all the way through the highs and the crossover is so smooth and balanced I can't even tell when the emphasis shifts from woofer to mid. Notes are clearly articulated, solid, and rich in harmonics. Fingerstyle (which is 90% of what I play) tone is just what I had hoped for. I liked the slap tone as well. The low end doesn't fold and there is a surprizing amount of high end content, it's just not harsh. I don't miss the tweeter with this 2-way and the dispersion is more even than the 410, which should be expected.
This cab is a tone monster and I'm lovin' it!!!
I got my perforated 5/32" round hole grill from Reliable Hardware last night and mounted it this morning. I used a thin backing strip of gasket tape on the baffle and 1 1/8" rubber standoffs secured by 2" long #6 drywall screws and cup washers. These screws fit nicely through the grill holes unlike those monster screws they include with the grill mounting kit. Here she is all buttoned up. Final weight is 68.9 lbs.
The recessed jack plate doubles as a support hand hold when moving the cabinet. This actually works quite well. My one disappointment is that the weight came in about 4 lbs heavier than estimated. I used light plywood and tried to minimize the weight of hardware but I didn't want to give up that perforated metal grill. It looks sharp and provides good protection for the speakers.
I haven't gigged out with this cab yet but I've had the chance to play through it about 10 or 12 hours this week with my Carvin SB5000 and Valenti PJ5 basses and Genz Benz STL900 and SM12.0 amps. The 3012LF woofers really do take a few hours to loosen up the surrounds and break in. After 2-3 hours of playing time I found myself cutting the bass back slightly because the tone was getting a little rounder and fuller. This cab sounded very good with both basses and both amps but the rig I kept coming back to was the Carvin SB5000 with the STL900. Those single coil pickups with that fat-but-articulate Streamliner make it hard to put down.
I ended up with settings quite similar to those for my Uber 410T; high gain in at 1:00, bass at 10:30, 600 Hz mids at 2:00, and treble at noon. I had to crank the master about 1/4 turn higher because the 1212/66 is not as sensitive but when I did this cab came to life. My 3 unknowns were:
1) Will this cab have enough focus and low mid punch to go along with that low end extension?
2) Will the 3012LF have enough mid presence around 600 Hz to balance well with the Faital W6N8 mid in the crossover region?
3) Will I miss not having a tweeter?
This 1212/66 has a very nice blend of depth, focus, and punch. The 3012LF and that Faital W6N8-120 are an excellent match for each other. Ralf Patterson did a wonderful job on that crossover. The voicing is very even from the lows all the way through the highs and the crossover is so smooth and balanced I can't even tell when the emphasis shifts from woofer to mid. Notes are clearly articulated, solid, and rich in harmonics. Fingerstyle (which is 90% of what I play) tone is just what I had hoped for. I liked the slap tone as well. The low end doesn't fold and there is a surprizing amount of high end content, it's just not harsh. I don't miss the tweeter with this 2-way and the dispersion is more even than the 410, which should be expected.
This cab is a tone monster and I'm lovin' it!!!
Wow , that turned out great . Very very nice build and excellent choice of components . Talk about a cab that will do about any gig , I bet that thing roars !
Nice ...
I would worry the acoustic impedance of that foam is much higher than desirable. You run the risk with that sort of material of significantly lowering the effective volume of the box without appreciably dampening resonances. If you seem to have a higher port tuning than desirable you might consider swapping the foam for something with a lower entrance impedance [more breathable] like fiberglass batts.
I would worry the acoustic impedance of that foam is much higher than desirable. You run the risk with that sort of material of significantly lowering the effective volume of the box without appreciably dampening resonances. If you seem to have a higher port tuning than desirable you might consider swapping the foam for something with a lower entrance impedance [more breathable] like fiberglass batts.
Thanks Blues Bass, looking forward to practice with the band to see how it fits in the mix.
Foz, I used fiberglass batts on the first cabinets I built quite a few years ago but prefer the poly foam. Greenboy's site has a good discussion on DAMPING: lining for ported enclosures. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
2" thick seemed like a good starting point for this larger enclosure.
I may have mis-spoken when referring to that poly foam as upholstery cushioning. That stuff is very dense and wouldn't be the right material for this application. The poly foam I used is about the same density and feel as Auralex studiofoam panels. I don't have any test equipment set up to check this enclosure - just my ears. Notes are even up and down the neck with no noticeable peaks or dropouts. The tone has good transparency and harmonic content and is not muffled or wooly. This 1212/66 takes more juice to drive it than my 410 because the midrange efficiency is not as high but it can get loud and has a good solid presence. If I ever finish a gig thinking I should have more on tap with the signal its fed I'll reconsider the damping.
Otherwise, "If it sounds good and ain't broke, don't fix it".
Foz, I used fiberglass batts on the first cabinets I built quite a few years ago but prefer the poly foam. Greenboy's site has a good discussion on DAMPING: lining for ported enclosures. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
2" thick seemed like a good starting point for this larger enclosure.
I may have mis-spoken when referring to that poly foam as upholstery cushioning. That stuff is very dense and wouldn't be the right material for this application. The poly foam I used is about the same density and feel as Auralex studiofoam panels. I don't have any test equipment set up to check this enclosure - just my ears. Notes are even up and down the neck with no noticeable peaks or dropouts. The tone has good transparency and harmonic content and is not muffled or wooly. This 1212/66 takes more juice to drive it than my 410 because the midrange efficiency is not as high but it can get loud and has a good solid presence. If I ever finish a gig thinking I should have more on tap with the signal its fed I'll reconsider the damping.
Otherwise, "If it sounds good and ain't broke, don't fix it".
Maybe Mr Greenboy can answer this or anyone who knows the answer; I forgot something in my 12126 build. The port shelf support should have 5 X 1.25" holes at the rear. I forgot them. Are these crucial to sound? Will 10 X 3/4" holes do it? I went to fetch my late Dad's wood bit set that go with his ancient but lovely brace. I can't get the brace in but I can get a 1/4" ratchet in with a small socket driving the wood bit. The largest bit in the set is 3/4" maybe 7/8". Or are these weight saving holes? I suspect not.
Those holes are just to reduce weight , not having them in there won't change the sound at all .
You could have saved some weight by using 4 or 6mm plywood for the bracing. Making the work much more fiddly, but you'd save an ounce or two.
I miss a handle on the back to grab it when tilting it away. But hey, that's an easy fix. It looks awesome. And I am very interested in how much SPL you can get out of this thing. I'm quite sure you'd be amazed as it will be around 3 to 6db louder than a comparable speaker with ceramic drivers... So if a certain enclosure would reach 112 DB at 1 meter. You'rs would do 118 DB. Wich is alot. Because a very loud drummer can reach 120 DB. Fading your notes like a cloth does to caulk. Then that 6db (wich makes it more then twice as loud) will give that drummer a run for it's money...
I miss a handle on the back to grab it when tilting it away. But hey, that's an easy fix. It looks awesome. And I am very interested in how much SPL you can get out of this thing. I'm quite sure you'd be amazed as it will be around 3 to 6db louder than a comparable speaker with ceramic drivers... So if a certain enclosure would reach 112 DB at 1 meter. You'rs would do 118 DB. Wich is alot. Because a very loud drummer can reach 120 DB. Fading your notes like a cloth does to caulk. Then that 6db (wich makes it more then twice as loud) will give that drummer a run for it's money...
Just checked my threads and realized I dropped the ball on this one. A mid-line was drawn along each joined edge and 1.25" finishing nails were applied with a nail gun to reinforce the PL Premium glue joints. This worked well with 12mm braces but would have been difficult to work with on thinner braces for the small weight savings.
A rear handle could be mounted but it works for me just to pull the top front edge back and hook my fingers in the jack cup, putting the other hand on top to roll it around short distances. I use a lightweight aluminum hand truck for longer distances.
This 1212/66 cab could handle over 1100 watts based on the drivers but my crossover is rated for 1000 watts and I wouldn't want to risk damage to it. At 1000 watts my WinISD and Eminence designer models show about 127 dB max SPL from 56 - 600 Hz at 1 meter. With a 900 watt amp this is a one cab rig able to play any stage volume I'd ever need. It can get loud enough to cause hearing damage if you play too many hours at extreme volume with no hearing protection.
I like this cab with my Streamliner 900 but the Shuttle Max 9.2 really gets the best from this cab. I cut the bass to 11:00 and bump the low mid @ 150 Hz and high mid @ 600 Hz to 1:00. Those mid points really dial in the right amount of punch and mid presence. With the treble at about 12:00 and minor adjustments on the bass vintage tone control (high rolloff when needed) the depth, punch, growl, and articulation are just stunning. Here is a picture with one of my 15.6.1 cabs I use for our practice PA.
