My budget solution for keeping an amp secured on a tilted back cab

[DuluthDank]

What I used: Floating shelf brackets, latex non-slip adhesive that can be cut with scissors, and velcro. Velcro to attach the amp to the bracket, and the latex making contact with the amp surfaces. In total it cost me about 25 USD. I wanted to minimize any change the amp or cab, and seems like a bit of velcro adhesive left on the bottom of the amps is the most likely (very minor) issue.

I can tell you they are on there pretty snug, as gravity pulls the non-slip latex against the front and top of the cab.

It's possible i'm the only one who considers this a thing worth doing, but I figured I'd share in case it's useful to somebody else.

 

[Thumpin6string]

Neat idea. You could also use those brackets for tilting the cab.

 

[S-Bigbottom]

I just hang the feet over the edge.

 

[DuluthDank]

I just hang the feet over the edge.




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I did try to do that as well, but the feet on my amps (Genz Benz Shuttle 3.0 and 6.0) are much shorter so it didn't work at all. I considered attempting to replace the feet with longer ones, but decided on something that didn't require any modifications. Also, I still have the 10 inch cabinet with amp saddle for my Shuttle 3.0, and any mods to the feet would make it so the amp wouldn't fit anymore.

 

[NitroBobby]

You’re not the only one looking for a solution to this situation. I went a different route. 1/8” bar from the welding section at Tractor Supply. About $3.00 or so. “Custom” bent with a pair of lineman’s pliers. I went high class and threaded some rubber tubing (1/8” ID) over the device for slip resistance. (This is not really necessary as I made one for the D800+ which did not have the rubber and was still solid. )
I’ve played about 12 shows with this setup. Rock solid. The bottom front slips into the grill and catches under the box. The back cradles the amp like a baby.
As anyone who’s ever tied anything down would say “she’s not going anywhere”. However, in this case, I’d be right.

 

[DuluthDank]

View attachment 7497458View attachment 7497459View attachment 7497460
You’re not the only one looking for a solution to this situation. I went a different route. 1/8” bar from the welding section at Tractor Supply. About $3.00 or so. “Custom” bent with a pair of lineman’s pliers. I went high class and threaded some rubber tubing (1/8” ID) over the device for slip resistance. (This is not really necessary as I made one for the D800+ which did not have the rubber and was still solid. )
I’ve played about 12 shows with this setup. Rock solid. The bottom front slips into the grill and catches under the box. The back cradles the amp like a baby.
As anyone who’s ever tied anything down would say “she’s not going anywhere”. However, in this case, I’d be right.

Awesome, I think I actually like your solution better than mine.

 

[joe_f]

NitroBobby looks good, what are you using to tilt the cab?

 

[Luckydog]

I use a 12x12 inch square of gorilla shelf liner. Works perfectly keeping my Magellan head from sliding off 2 stacked slant Genzler cabs. Rock solid.

 

[ninjatanzen]

NitroBobby looks good, what are you using to tilt the cab?

I think those GK cabs have kickback built in. The image below might be from a silver faced grille, but I believe the concept is the same.

 

[joe_f]

Ninjatanzen yeah you're probably right, that's good stuff. Takes extra design work from the manufacturer.

 

[five7]

Years ago I took an old license plate and bent it into a bracket. Worked well with the markbass amp and 210 cab I had angled.

 

[NitroBobby]

NitroBobby looks good, what are you using to tilt the cab?

I think those GK cabs have kickback built in. The image below might be from a silver faced grille, but I believe the concept is the same.

View attachment 7498250

This is the cab i'm using. Kick back design built in.

The grill was originally silver, but i painted it, along with my other GK cabs so they would match. My first GK Neo 212 had an orange grill when I bought it, which i didn't mind but when i picked up another, i wanted them to match so i grabbed a can of spray paint and gave them a coat. I did the same to the 210 and 115 when i got them.

 

[joe_f]

Good stuff, thanks. That's a good, solid solution. Being able to sink the bar into the grill perforation is a nice touch. You could probably sell those!

 

[ninjatanzen]

This is the cab i'm using. Kick back design built in.
View attachment 7498319
The grill was originally silver, but i painted it, along with my other GK cabs so they would match. My first GK Neo 212 had an orange grill when I bought it, which i didn't mind but when i picked up another, i wanted them to match so i grabbed a can of spray paint and gave them a coat. I did the same to the 210 and 115 when i got them.

Initially I thought maybe the grille was painted, but it looked so clean. Props to your spray paint skills! I was going crazy trying to find that cab in a black grille lol.

 

[dbsfgyd1]

What I used: Floating shelf brackets, latex non-slip adhesive that can be cut with scissors, and velcro. Velcro to attach the amp to the bracket, and the latex making contact with the amp surfaces. In total it cost me about 25 USD. I wanted to minimize any change the amp or cab, and seems like a bit of velcro adhesive left on the bottom of the amps is the most likely (very minor) issue.

I can tell you they are on there pretty snug, as gravity pulls the non-slip latex against the front and top of the cab.

It's possible i'm the only one who considers this a thing worth doing, but I figured I'd share in case it's useful to somebody else.


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I used a GenzBenz amp with on of these. Very solid and look very professional and very secure.

 

[DCErik]

My EA cabs have a little kickstand that tilts them maybe 15 degrees, but I use a kickback stand to get them closer to 40 and a webbing strap to keep the head from sliding off.

 

[NitroBobby]

Initially I thought maybe the grille was painted, but it looked so clean. Props to your spray paint skills! I was going crazy trying to find that cab in a black grille lol.

it's actually not black. it's Behr Premium spray paint in "Beyond Navy" flat. It says i'ts a paint & primer.

i didn't do anything special. i took the grill off and removed the logos. then put it on a big piece of cardboard on a clam, warm day. i think i did 2 light coats, letting it dry between coats. just one coat on the back side. probably not needed but i wanted it uniform.

i think it's just good paint. there are some chips in the paint, but it's been giged at least a dozen times, so that's expected.

i was originally trying to match the color of the blue light on the amp, but that was pretty bright and i didn't see any good matches. so i went with this. mostly because i'm a Navy vet and this color seemed like a sign. lol. but i liked the color, so i got another can to have on hand for when they get all beat up.

 

[ninjatanzen]

it's actually not black. it's Behr Premium spray paint in "Beyond Navy" flat. It says i'ts a paint & primer.

i didn't do anything special. i took the grill off and removed the logos. then put it on a big piece of cardboard on a clam, warm day. i think i did 2 light coats, letting it dry between coats. just one coat on the back side. probably not needed but i wanted it uniform.

i think it's just good paint. there are some chips in the paint, but it's been giged at least a dozen times, so that's expected.

i was originally trying to match the color of the blue light on the amp, but that was pretty bright and i didn't see any good matches. so i went with this. mostly because i'm a Navy vet and this color seemed like a sign. lol. but i liked the color, so i got another can to have on hand for when they get all beat up.

I can see that now that I'm not looking at a tiny screen haha. It looks great.

You used a good paint/primer and applied multiple light coats, that's still more smarts than some spray paint jobs I've seen. Including my own mistakes in the past.

 

[NitroBobby]

Good stuff, thanks. That's a good, solid solution. Being able to sink the bar into the grill perforation is a nice touch. You could probably sell those!

i had actually thought about that but i think it would be a huge PITA for not much return. when i bent it, i made sure that no ports/switches/etc were blocked or impeded by the brace. so each bracket would likely need to be custom. also, i imagine that the market would be quite small. only so many people out there looking for a solution to this issue. so, i'll just share my solution because it's cheap and effective. not the prettiest, definitely form over function.

i like that the cables kind of lock it in there. if it did get a hard enough bump to move, the cables would prevent it from going too far. not a big concern, but a little piece of mind.

i bent this one for the WD and it works with the D800+ as well. it's wider and rises high enough to be above the top. the first one i bent for the D800+ is narrower and doesn't come up as high in the back, since the D800+ is physically shorter.

i'm not going to use the D800+ one anymore if anyone wants it. shoot me a DM. cover shipping and it's yours. It's about 6 1/4" wide, the back is about 3" tall and it's about 10 1/2" long. the hook part is about 1 3/4" long. there's wiggle room there. you can definitely tweak it to fit if it's close.

kgb

 

[beans-on-toast]

Always nice to see inventive solutions to problems.