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My first frankenbass project, with progress updates

#21
klocwerk said:
and you'll remain so until I have it together! it's too unusual an idea to give away early. :hiding:

The mahogony I've worked with in the past was always a much darker reddish-brown, so this one threw me for a loop. It works like mahogony though, but it's a bit soft frankly. It'll be interesting to see how the tone of this bass turns out.
MM+Jneck on a mahogony body...
:hyper:
Click to expand...

it could be a variation...honduran mahogany is generally lighter in color like that...and that grain certainly looks like mahogany.

I think tonally you're going to be very happy with this bass...
 
#22
Update:

Bit the bullet and got a Bosch 1617EVSPK router with fixed and plunge bases. It was a bite in the wallet, but damnit I've wanted a router for years now and this way I don't have to rely on someone else to do routes for me.

Picked up a 1/4" and a 1" straight bit, going to go back today and get a flush trim bit so I can do the neck a-la Martin Koch's method (1:1 template).

Any recommendations for other bits that I NEED to have around? I'll want a spiral cut bit someday I'm sure, upcut or downcut? What radius round-over is best for general usage?

*edit*
I also have a MM p'up from a sterling with the third phantom coil on it's way to me, and a bart pre-amp lined up. Just need a J p'up now.
 
#23
klocwerk said:
Any recommendations for other bits that I NEED to have around? I'll want a spiral cut bit someday I'm sure, upcut or downcut? What radius round-over is best for general usage?
Click to expand...
Unless you're doing through routing, you'll want an upcut bit. It'll pull the waste out of the hole and help to keep things clear.

Personally I like a pair of flush cut bits (top bearing and bottom bearing) to give me a bit more versatility. A 1/2" roundover also tends to come in handy for body edges, though you might want a smaller one if you're looking for a more square look.

In the end it all comes down to personal preference (like everything else). You won't regret spending a bit more on your bits (name brands actually mean something here) and a router table and some clever jigs will let you get the most out of whatever bits you decide to buy.

-Nate
 
#24
nateo said:
Unless you're doing through routing, you'll want an upcut bit. It'll pull the waste out of the hole and help to keep things clear.

Personally I like a pair of flush cut bits (top bearing and bottom bearing) to give me a bit more versatility. A 1/2" roundover also tends to come in handy for body edges, though you might want a smaller one if you're looking for a more square look.

In the end it all comes down to personal preference (like everything else). You won't regret spending a bit more on your bits (name brands actually mean something here) and a router table and some clever jigs will let you get the most out of whatever bits you decide to buy.

-Nate
Click to expand...

I'm severely space limited, meaning that storing the router itself is going to be a problem. No router table in my future. :D

I need a top bearing flushcut asap, I don't yet have a use for a bottom bearing one so I'm going to hold off on purchasing that until I have a specific need.

Have you used an upcut on a veneered piece? that's what I'm worried about, pulling up the veneer with the upcut motion. Maybe one of each for different purposes...
 
#25
update:

got 2 new router bits, top bearing and bottom bearing so I can copy the neck route from the old bass that I ripped the neck off of, to the new body.

Picked up some Ultra Jazz p'ups locally (thanks Corey!).
Got a stock 3-coil MM in the mail today. yay!
Bartolini pre, NTCT arrived today as well.

I've evolved my plan a bit.
I'm going to drop the ultra-jazzes in since it's already routed for them, along with the bart pre of course. What the hey, can't hurt to try 'em out. If it's not everything I've ever desired, I'll reroute the bridge spot for the MM 3-coil and drop that in. The Ultra Jazzes might end up in my fretless MIM if I really love the MM p'up in this bass, and I'd drop the MIM neck p'up in this one for the time being until I find one I like better.

So that's the current plan. whee!



MM p'up wiring: (would love corrections on this if I'm insane)
1-2
-3-

1 - red / green (which is which?) both -> cavity //need to figure out phase
2 - white->cavity / pink into: 3 - pink / black->cavity
clear is ground is pink

Series: connect white&green(or red), wire red(or green) hot, clear&black ground.

Parallel: One of these two, test them!
tie red&white hot, green&black&clear ground
tie green&white hot, red&black&clear ground

humless Single: Black ground, white hot.

I'll post a shot of the back of the p'up tonight when i get home.
 
#30
klocwerk said:
What do you think of the converted headstock design? Trying to work around/in the old third tuner hole is giving me a headache. (original headstock is that triangular Peavey shape.)
Click to expand...

Just plug up the old tuner holes with hardwood dowels of the same diameter. Sand the dowels flush with the surface of the head stock. If you want to change the shape to something that wont fit the existing shape, cut the sides straight and glue maple "ears" to the sides. Then get some nice veneer and cover the front of the head before you cut it out.

You'll need a way to glue the veneer to the headstock.. there's different ways to do this, and picking up a woodworking book, or even magazines can help.

I once converted a Fender P bass neck to an 8-string using this approach. :D
 

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