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My first pedal board, advice most welcome

I think I've hijacked a thread or two elsewhere on this topic so thought to start my own thread. Hopefully any feedback might also prove helpful for others as well.

I have questions about:
1. The signal path
2. Connector cables
3. Any experiences with the 2 boards which I've narrowed down to:
- The Accel XTA15
- The Holeyboard Zig (and possibly Zag extension)
4. Power supply and which pedals to run at other than 9v

My criteria: A small board, but not too small, and definitely not too big, space for the power supply underneath.

My Main Pedals:
- Broughton High-Pass Filter (new)
- Keely Bassist Compressor (new)
- Sansamp BDDI
- TC Electronics Chorus / Flanger
- Radial Twin City ABY (for using 2 separate amps or wet/dry signal splitting)

My Other Pedals:
- Boss OC-2 Octave
- Boss RV-3 Reverb / Delay
- Boss Syb-3 Synth
- Ibanez CE6 Chorus (sometimes I prefer this to the TC)
- Boss LM-2B Limiter (never use it)

Accel XTA15 Pro Tier Yellow Pedal Board with Tote

Invalid Link Removed

I'll post a follow-up to keep this one short.
 
For connector cables I've been looking at a combination of solid connectors, solderless cables from Lava (overly expensive?), George L(not cheap either), GET Music, D'Addario, and short cables from M MAKA, Getaria, Hosa.

From what I'm reading the solid connectors, while good for connecting like-configured pedals, the build quality of the ones I've found on Amazon (Sendt, Donner, Sonicake) seems questionable.

I'd definitely need a couple longer cords to connect the left of the bottom tier to the right of the top tier, the solderless ones look good for that.

One thing I'm not sold on the Holeyboard is that it's intended to be used with cable ties, whereas I'd prefer to use Dual Lock. With all the holes in it I'm not sure there is enough area to adhere the board platform. On the plus side it's really expandable, simple, and a great size and great design.
 
Mock-up: Accel
20190213_213227_2.jpg
 
How I think the signal train will flow:

Bass -> HPF -> Compressor -> BDDI -> TC Chorus -> Octave -> Reverb -> ABY

ABY -> Amp 1
-> Amp 2

I would probably go about it this way:

Bass -> Compressor -> Octave -> TC Chorus -> Reverb -> HPF -> BDDI ->ABY

If you want to use the DI on BDDI, you need to have it in the end of the chain in order to send wet signal to FOH.
 
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- Radial Twin City ABY (for using 2 separate amps or wet/dry signal splitting)

You need to decide which purpose will you use Radial for: if you want to use it to feed both amps with wet signal, you need to have Radial last in the chain. If you want to use it for wet/dry signal splitting, you need to put Radial first in the chain.

If you do not need to switch between the amps, you can achieve the same without Radial using either chorus or reverb in stereo mode.
 
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You are approaching this like I did: think, think, think, research like crazy. You will eventually dive in, and you will eventually rework your board over time. So, I guess the message here is to enjoy the journey.

If you don't want to go the zip tie route, I'm not sure I see any reason to use the Holey Board. They're not my cup of tea. AND some of my pedals would not easily hook up with zip ties - they would get in the way of the foot switches or controls.

Oops. Got called to work. Will continue this later.
 
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I would probably go about it this way:

Bass -> Compressor -> Octave -> TC Chorus -> Reverb -> HPF -> BDDI ->ABY

If you want to use the DI on BDDI, you need to have it in the end of the chain in order to send wet signal to FOH.
^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^
My BDDI is on the end, and when you play at a gig with provided sound, they take the line right out of it and contour to taste. Easy Peasy. Bassists should never be the problem....Honest Opinion only.
 
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I like these EBS flat cables, they take up very little room which allows for more pedals, they come in a variety of lengths to run from bottom left to top right, etc.

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As to the order I like Octave > Synth/Wah > Modulation > Drive/OD > Preamp/DI > Comp (I would like Comp > Pre/DI but my Messenger suggests running Comp after it) If you are using the DI I suggest putting the hpf before it.

I just got a Voodoo labs Power Pedal Power Plus 2 but you really have to list all your pedals and what power requirements they have and then compare to power supplies.
 
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If by "solid connector" you mean the male-male adapters instead of using short cables, I recommend against it.

You won't save much space by using them, and if you need to remove one of your pedals (which I assume will be velcroed to the board) it will be much more difficult - it might bend out shape, or damage the jack of the pedal that's staying on the board.

Cables with "pancake" type right-angled connectors will take about the same space or less, and will be much more flexible (figuratively and litterally).
 
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I would probably go about it this way:

Bass -> Compressor -> Octave -> TC Chorus -> Reverb -> HPF -> BDDI ->ABY

If you want to use the DI on BDDI, you need to have it in the end of the chain in order to send wet signal to FOH.

Me too. At least for starters.

I also don’t see anything in your signal chain that would benefit from running above 9V. Some of it could actually be damaged by a higher voltage source. So for what you’ve got, I’d stick with 9V throughout.
 
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...and here I was thinking I wouldn't get any replies...

Thanks all for the great feedback. Keep it coming. I'll reply in-line

You need to decide which purpose will you use Radial for: if you want to use it to feed both amps with wet signal, you need to have Radial last in the chain. If you want to use it for wet/dry signal splitting, you need to put Radial first in the chain.
I didn't post it but that is the other reason I got the ABY in the first place, with running 2 amps regardless of we/dry, running one signal wet and the other dry.

An alternative I thought to also explore is using one chain into the Effects Loop, but I've never really used those correctly before.


If you do not need to switch between the amps, you can achieve the same without Radial using either chorus or reverb in stereo mode.
To use the stereo out from other pedals is a great point.

You are approaching this like I did: think, think, think, research like crazy.

Yeah I've been at this for some time already, but it was worth the wait because I only came across Accel and Holey recently.

If you don't want to go the zip tie route, I'm not sure I see any reason to use the Holey Board. They're not my cup of tea. AND some of my pedals would not easily hook up with zip ties - they would get in the way of the foot switches or controls.

My OCD would have issues with those ties, plus I think they distract from the aesthetics of good gear.

Oops. Got called to work. Will continue this later.
Please do!

I use that Radial ABY in a two channel amp setup. Love it. You may wanna bypass it if you ever go single amp/single channel, though. It'll buzz like crazy if each output isn't connected to something.
That is good to know, thanks.

I was just about to post on the EBS flat cables. I like them. I went through a George L's phase. I experienced too many failures with them.
I like these EBS flat cables, they take up very little room which allows for more pedals, they come in a variety of lengths to run from bottom left to top right, etc.
Thanks, I hadn't come across those yet and I do like the form factor a lot and the choice of lengths.

As to the order I like Octave > Synth/Wah > Modulation > Drive/OD > Preamp/DI > Comp (I would like Comp > Pre/DI but my Messenger suggests running Comp after it) If you are using the DI I suggest putting the hpf before it.
Thanks and I plan to experiment with exactly that - there is a thread on this and the opinions were almost split: HPF before or after compressor

Plus everything that
Nunovsky, Zbysek, City, and Crguti say.

I just got a Voodoo labs Power Pedal Power Plus 2 but you really have to list all your pedals and what power requirements they have and then compare to power supplies.
I do like Voodoo gear, and wish their Medium board was a little bigger, I was planning to go with one of their reasonably-prices sets.

If by "solid connector" you mean the male-male adapters instead of using short cables, I recommend against it.

You won't save much space by using them, and if you need to remove one of your pedals (which I assume will be velcroed to the board) it will be much more difficult - it might bend out shape, or damage the jack of the pedal that's staying on the board.

Cables with "pancake" type right-angled connectors will take about the same space or less, and will be much more flexible (figuratively and litterally).
That's great advice and I agree, at first they seem like a great idea and elegant design, but poor quality and actual functional use don't seem to make them a good idea.

That holeyboard looks cool. Do they come with a road case or bag?
A guitarist I play with got one with a old school-looking Tolex case.

I was pretty set with the Accel but I do like the modeluar flexibility of the Holeyboards, it makes the case for a basic board for this to always use like Compressor / Pre-amp/DI / HPF / Chorus and have expansion capability for a more effects-oriented board for things I probably wouldn't use at every gig but once in a while.


I also don’t see anything in your signal chain that would benefit from running above 9V. Some of it could actually be damaged by a higher voltage source. So for what you’ve got, I’d stick with 9V throughout.
I wouldn't run any of the 'standard' pedals like the Boss with anything by 9v, but I do need to check with Broughton and Keeley as I seem to remember they can and even suggest running with 18v for more headroom.
 
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