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My frets are to long!

#21
Bio-Bassist said:
So I just picked up my GSR 206 today and the frets are over the end and was curious if i could fix them myself. I just need to get rid of just a tiny bit, I have the service plan that'll help me fix it, but i wanted it tonight and was wondering if i could just fix it myself either by filing or moving the whole fret upwards. :help:
Click to expand...

If by "I just picked up" you mean this is a new bass you just bought, then don't file the frets BRING IT BACK. If you got it used, or saomething else, then consider the other options. Unfinished wood and necks without sealed finishes can shrink a bit in dry weather but a new bass with these issues should not have passed QC and needs to go back. There could be other issues you haven't noticed yet if something this obvious got through.

Don't start screwing with it thinking you can always bring it back later if you fail - bring it back for a replacement if you can as your best option.
 
#23
jim777 said:
If by "I just picked up" you mean this is a new bass you just bought, then don't file the frets BRING IT BACK. If you got it used, or saomething else, then consider the other options. Unfinished wood and necks without sealed finishes can shrink a bit in dry weather but a new bass with these issues should not have passed QC and needs to go back. There could be other issues you haven't noticed yet if something this obvious got through.

Don't start screwing with it thinking you can always bring it back later if you fail - bring it back for a replacement if you can as your best option.
Click to expand...

+1
 
#25
If it's new, return it. If it's not, don't do this yourself. If you think that you are going to be able to remove and reposition frets with a pair of pliers, than you don't have enough knowledge about how a bass is constructed to do this work yourself.

Think about it: People pay hundreds of dollars to have their frets worked on to get them all level, which removes maybe 1/100th of an inch of metal or less. By messing with the frets yourself, even if you could get them moved without completely destroying your neck (which isn't likely), they aren't going to be sitting level anymore, since they will be sitting in a different position than they were before. So, you are going to end up with a ton of buzz and the bass will never play right without the action set really really high.

This is the type of thing that a qualified tech can do fairly easily, but can also completely destroy your instrument if done wrong.
 
#27
You're describing fret sprout, when the wood fingerboard contracts, causing the ends f the frets to poke out.

Like the others said DO NOT try to "move" the frets. The frets have what are called tangs on them, which dig into the fingerboard so the fret doesn't just fall right out of the neck. If its brand new and you have "coverage" (whatever that means), then take it to the shop and have it fixed.

You can do it yourself, but do some Googling first.
 
#28
This is a common problem on new instruments. The fingerboard and/or neck wood shrinks a bit in width, and the metal fretwire doesn't. The ends of the frets stick out from the wood a small amount. It isn't much, but you can really feel it.

Fixing it is simple and only takes a few minutes, if you have the right tools. The best way is to use a special customized file. You start with a flat #4 Swiss file. If you're not familiar with file grades, a #4 Swiss file has very, very tiny fine teeth. It's made for doing the final cut on metal, and leaves the metal shiny and smooth. They aren't cheap either; a 6" #4 Swiss file is about $25. Now, you take that nice new file over to the belt sander and "safe" the edges by grinding it. You want the flat surface of the file (with the teeth on it) to have teeth only in the center, tapering off on either side to smooth metal. This special luthier's tool allows you to gently file down the end of the fret without digging into the paint or wood on either side of it.

To use it, you only stoke downwards, pushing the fret down into the wood. Pulling up could loosen the fret. It usually only takes a few strokes to make the fret flush. Then you lightly buff the edge of the fingerboard to remove any rub marks from the edges of the file.

That's the super-secret magic technique.
 
#32
I don't recommend using masking tape to protect the fingerboard. A single missed file swipe will go right through the tape.

Use black vinyl electrician's tape. It's much more resistant to a file.

Better yet, use the thin stainless sheet guards like Stew-Mac sells. Or make your own.

But for this particular problem, putting tape guards on either side of the sticking-out fret end will prevent you from filing it down to flush with the finish. That's why you use the safe-edged file.
 
#33
Munjibunga said:
I'm sure you can find just what you need Invalid Link Removed.
Click to expand...

Munji beat me to it, but that's what I use. Specifically the link below. When you live in SoCal like I do and buy basses built in the northeast part of the USA or in Korea, chances are your fingerboard is going to shrink at some point. That makes it seem like your frets have expanded! Humidity is one of life's hazards. This applies to boutique basses, as well. IME. YHMV. ;)

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

M. M.
 

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