Well you would think with the current situation I would have tons of time to work on this, but haven't. Still working, moved back up north, etc. Once I finish getting my work table set-up again, this is my top priority!
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NAD/Project SVT Blueline
- Thread starter greengoblin
- Start date
Well, my bench is now set back up and closer to getting a place to get back to work on this amp! Will post an update as soon as there is some new progress.
A little bit of movement and a few updates and I think parts chasing I think has come to an end. Picked up a set of matched 6146W JAN/Philips power tubes, (2) JAN/GE's for spares, and Millen (US Made) ceramic plate caps. Dont think I need anything else and moving forward now that I am set-up and ready.
Put the chassis back on the bench with everything out. Finished some final cleanings to try to rid the chassis of any unneeded residue.. Pulled the two bias pots, control pot and hum pot, cleaned them and lubed them with Deoxit Gold. The hum pot looks to be somewhat sealed so I tried to get the cleaner down the shaft, it spins freely. Replaced the power tube sockets with NOS bakelite, made in the us ones. The original (5) black sockets have seen better days with a lot of booger solder, crazy bent pins, etc. Drilled out the origs and riveted in the new sockets which are very tight. Reorganizing the molex connector on the chassis to match that of the pre-amp and making sure it is wired correctly.
Overall moving along a little slowly, but just want to make sure everything is right.
Put the chassis back on the bench with everything out. Finished some final cleanings to try to rid the chassis of any unneeded residue.. Pulled the two bias pots, control pot and hum pot, cleaned them and lubed them with Deoxit Gold. The hum pot looks to be somewhat sealed so I tried to get the cleaner down the shaft, it spins freely. Replaced the power tube sockets with NOS bakelite, made in the us ones. The original (5) black sockets have seen better days with a lot of booger solder, crazy bent pins, etc. Drilled out the origs and riveted in the new sockets which are very tight. Reorganizing the molex connector on the chassis to match that of the pre-amp and making sure it is wired correctly.
Overall moving along a little slowly, but just want to make sure everything is right.
Good progress. I know that these tasks take a lot of time.
It isn’t good to apply deoxit down the pot’s shaft. The shaft has it’s own lubricant and you don’t want it contaminating the inside the pot. If the pot is wire wound, you may not have ruined it.
While doing the sockets, it would have been be good to twist the power tube heater wires, they could be flown over the sockets. Twisting the heater wires helps to reduce hum.
Well hopefully the hum pot is fine, we shall see once i get it hooked up.
I had planned on twisting the heater wire and go over the sockets similar to an old Fender style. Have seem multiple references to that being the preferred method.
Going by the notes you so kindly shared on the molex connectors, really appreciate the sharing of info as it helps tremendously! Inspecting the connectors, the original plastic housing looks to be in good shape, but many pins have seen better days. I have plans on replacing all of the pins (have way more than I need) and may replace the connectors as well. If this was a pristine amp I would just clean and reconnect, but this was more of a project box so it is not going to be original.
I usually change the molex plastic if pins need changing, the cost is low. The new pins seem to sit better in the new plastic, sometimes the shoulders of the plastic where the tab locks is worn.
The trick to heater windings is to use solid core, not stranded wire. The solid core remains tightly wound and stays where you place it. If you can’t find covered solid core, you can use buss wire and pull a teflon sheath over it. Teflon (PTFE) spaghetti tubing is available from Surplus Sales Of Nebraska or you can warm and strip the sheathing off stranded wire and use that. A bit of work but you only have to do it once per amp.
I definitely have multiple gauges of solid core (18, 20 and 22) and its what I have used on a few Bassman heaters. Although I think most of it is 600v PVC and not PTFE covering, even the cloth covered.
PVC is fine. PTFE is not necessary, just what i like to use.
