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NBD and it has no output. RESOLVED!!!

You said "barely any sound"--is it barely any sound, or no sound at all? I assume the former since the polytune is responding. Bottom line: don't mess with it--it's a new bass, it doesn't work, it should, and it's under warranty. Take it back and swap it for one that works. End of story. If you bought it via the internet, contact the store and have them provide a return shipping label (I hope you kept the box) and send it back. Disappointing but unfortunately it happens.

Tom
 
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But to determine that the bass is a playee without plugging it in? I don't think so.

Besides, he plugged it in and it turned out to be a dud so...
Many people, including myself, check a bass before plugging it in. I want to hear its natural sound- is it dull, or vibrant? Does it have any dead spots? Then, if it passes those tests- plug it in.
 
Many people, including myself, check a bass before plugging it in. I want to hear its natural sound- is it dull, or vibrant? Does it have any dead sIpots? Then, if it passes those tests- plug it in.

Well of course, I do that too. But he mentioned the bass being a player, something special. I just don't think you can determine if a bass is something special, something worth taking home and keeping, without plugging it in.
 
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But to determine that the bass is a player without plugging it in? I don't think so.

I disagree. I always check a bass without plugging it in. If it sounds good unplugged it will sound good plugged in. If it doesn't sound good unplugged I'm not interested in it.

Forgetting about sound...you can also tell if the bass plays well in your hands, neck feel, string spacing, body shape, balance, etc.

Besides, he plugged it in and it turned out to be a dud so...

I guess I wouldn't call that a dud. That's something that's very easily fixed if all of the qualities listed above are met. If it's "the one" then it's worth pursuing fixing it. If it's not, then return it and move on to the next one.
 
If it were me I wouldn't go any further than a new battery, and would be sure I absolutely loved any replacement bass offered to me, if the battery doesn't fix the problem. If you do anything with the bass electronics, other than change a battery, it could possibly be your problem, and cost to fix it, and it shouldn't be.
 
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I disagree. I always check a bass without plugging it in. If it sounds good unplugged it will sound good plugged in. If it doesn't sound good unplugged I'm not interested in it.

Forgetting about sound...you can also tell if the bass plays well in your hands, neck feel, string spacing, body shape, balance, etc.



I guess I wouldn't call that a dud. That's something that's very easily fixed if all of the qualities listed above are met. If it's "the one" then it's worth pursuing fixing it. If it's not, then return it and move on to the next one.

Agree 100%. How the bass feels in the hands and responds to my personal playing are 90% of the equation for me. Electronics are significant, but are the last thing I check off on my "keeper" list. Pickups and electronics can always be changed/fixed, but a "player" is much harder to come by and much more expensive to correct if there is a mechanical issue. I think much of the reason people wind up not getting along with certain basses is because they fail to take this very obvious measure into account. If it was as easy as "ok, it makes sound so it works for me", then we'd all be playing cardboard ToysRUs beginner basses.
 
Well of course, I do that too. But he mentioned the bass being a player, something special. I just don't think you can determine if a bass is something special, something worth taking home and keeping, without plugging it in.

Getting a bass with great fretwork (i.e. "a player") has nothing to do with the electronics package. You can easily swap in new electronics and greatly change the sound of an instrument. Improving how a bass physically plays is not as easy.
 
I checked the pick up height and they seem very low, especially compared to my Jag. Not sure the correct height for the big candy bar humbucker type.....

Pickup height can very much determine volume, as the magnetic pull might be too low to produce any real power. Adjust their heights to whatever feels comfortable/preferable to you. As long as there's enough room to play under the strings, and the pickups aren't loose or wobbling, then you're good. I've never had a problem with pickups being close to the strings, in fact, I really prefer that surface right under my fingers, kind of like a ramp (best as you can get for a flat-shaped pickup, obviously).
 
But to determine that the bass is a player without plugging it in? I don't think so.

I can definitely tell if a bass is a player without plugging it in. I can't tell how the electronics sound, but I can tell if it's otherwise well-built, solid, resonant, and the potential for bonding and player interaction with the instrument. Absolutely.

In fact, that's my top priority with a bass, not the electronics. Electronics can easily be switched and modified to my taste and needs, but the construction (fit, finish, etc.) is more difficult to alter and improve.

A bass like OP's would be a dilemma. If it's a tweak or quick fix, I'd gladly spend the time and effort on a great-playing bass. If it's going to cost me money for replacement parts, I'd have to check on warranty coverage and decide. For sure, if I had a great player in my hands, it would be hard to return, because the next one could very well not be as good a player. That has happened to me a few times, and it's more disappointing and frustrating than a relatively small repair.

Assuming it's a great-playing bass, I'd be opening cavities (which will not void warranty or return option) and taking a peak, and if I couldn't figure it out, I'd have my tech do a free diagnosis for me. Then I'd decide how to proceed from there. Manufacturers and retailers are sometimes happy to reimburse for a little tech work after the purchase, you just have to research it first to see what they might be willing to do for you.
 
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Bummer! This one was just a Stupid Deal of The Day at MF over the weekend but I just couldn't bring myself to go with it. They're still being discounted everywhere and I don't see it at Squier's site (discontinued?) Still would like to know how it turns out.
 
A couple weeks ago, my daughter was playing her bass and her amp sounded hissy and distorted.

I asked her what was up, and she said that she had to turn her amp up all the way to make it even close to loud enough.

I took a peek in her bass' control cavity, and the hot wire on the output jack was hanging by a thread...literally.

I re-soldered that connection and the bass was back in action; a 5 minute fix.

So, that's the first place I'd look -- and if it takes much more than that, it might not be worth your time/money.
But, the fact that you've got ANY signal is a good sign that there isn't anything massively wrong.
 
Squiers spray the inner cavity with some kind of grounding paint.

If the input jack makes the slightest bit of contact with the cavity walls you won't get a signal.

Open the cavity and wrap the jack with tape. Plug in and see if it sounds.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I feel somewhat responsible as I bought it off the internet and didn't go down and get one that I test played. It was an impulse buy, MF stupid deal of the day.

I actually like the guitar and am amazed it arrived in good cosmetic considering they are literally thrown in a flimsy cardboard box with a thin layer of foam wrap and shipped common carrier.

I really hate to send it back as there are so many things that can go wrong and no guarantee the next will look as nice. I think I'm going to gently open her up hopefully find a loose connection.

Wish me luck, I'll let you know what I find.
 
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