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NBD!! (Fender Ultra)...and a question.

Hello TB!

My new Fender American Jazz Ultra V just arrived today! Absolutely beautiful! Plays, sounds, and feels better than I even hoped!

I bought this bass with the intention of stringing it E-C. But after I did the first setup today, I found I would like action of the high C string to be lower and there is no more adjustment left in the saddle. My question is this: would shimming the neck be the next logical step to try or will I need to file the nut (or both)? Thanks!!View attachment 4264652
If you can play it as it is, I'd do that. If it is a problem, file the nut. Shimming the neck up will affect every string, and sustain. You aren't going to get a desired result from it.filing the nut will drop the string on the first 5 frets slightly. I'd be very careful not to take much off. It's kind of hard to add nut that isn't there.

Guy above me mentioned filing the bridge. Do that instead. Worst case, you can get a new bridge saddle.
 
A bass straight out of the factory whose saddles won't go low enough for proper action is either poorly designed, poorly made, or both. It's 2021, we have CAD and CNC manufacturing that can make things to within a gnat's eyelash of where they were designed to be. This kind of crap should be long gone at this point - especially on a relatively high dollar instrument. I'd be taking the thing back.
 
Hello TB!

My new Fender American Jazz Ultra V just arrived today! Absolutely beautiful! Plays, sounds, and feels better than I even hoped!

I bought this bass with the intention of stringing it E-C. But after I did the first setup today, I found I would like action of the high C string to be lower and there is no more adjustment left in the saddle. My question is this: would shimming the neck be the next logical step to try or will I need to file the nut (or both)? Thanks!!View attachment 4264652
Nice Bass. I though the Ultra logos were white? It looks way better with the black logo.
 
Might be a trick of the light, my logo is gold.
(Edit: mine is a 4, maybe different for 5)
Thanks for the info. On the Fender website the logo looks white, but if you watch the video of the demonstration it looks black. I guess it's a trick of the light. Gold's a cool logo colour. I didn't think they would use a white logo. In the pictures on the website the logo looks white and it doesn't look so good.
 
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Thanks for the info. On the Fender website the logo looks white, but if you watch the video of the demonstration it looks black. I guess it's a trick of the light. Gold's a cool logo colour. I didn't think they would use a white logo. In the pictures on the website the logo looks white and it doesn't look so good.
Is the Maple neck and headstock tinted a little bit on yours?
 
Check the relief. I have no hesitation in taking a neck off. Especially with some fenders, you get a ton of overspray and gunk in the neck pocket. Def worth taking a look to see what's in there. Take it to a tech if it's all out of your comfort zone. You may end up having to change the nut slot. I don't see that as a real issue. i mean, it wasn't set up for this tuning in the first place and will obv need some work.
 
A bass straight out of the factory whose saddles won't go low enough for proper action is either poorly designed, poorly made, or both. It's 2021, we have CAD and CNC manufacturing that can make things to within a gnat's eyelash of where they were designed to be. This kind of crap should be long gone at this point - especially on a relatively high dollar instrument. I'd be taking the thing back.

I don't totally disagree, but at the same time the bass wasn't designed for that kind of tuning, right?
 
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A bass straight out of the factory whose saddles won't go low enough for proper action is either poorly designed, poorly made, or both. It's 2021, we have CAD and CNC manufacturing that can make things to within a gnat's eyelash of where they were designed to be. This kind of crap should be long gone at this point - especially on a relatively high dollar instrument. I'd be taking the thing back.
It's not designed to be strung E to C. Use the strings it was designed for and there shouldn't be a problem. It's kinda funny so many are jumping on this when the OP specifically stated he wants to string it out of spec.
 
It's not designed to be strung E to C. Use the strings it was designed for and there shouldn't be a problem. It's kinda funny so many are jumping on this when the OP specifically stated he wants to string it out of spec.

Yep. At the Sadowsky shop, they'd have to cut a new nut for alternate tunings.
 
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It's not designed to be strung E to C. Use the strings it was designed for and there shouldn't be a problem. It's kinda funny so many are jumping on this when the OP specifically stated he wants to string it out of spec.

Ahem. Think for a second. His issues are at the bridge. Bridge saddles are cut with a "V" shape - they are not specific to the gauge of string used, and will work for any gauge of string. Indeed, a C string in a V shape will ride a bit lower than the G that is "normal". The OP is having problems because, even though the string is running lower, it's still too high. The problem is....the bass isn't made right - his running it "out pf spec" isn't causing an issue, it's mitigating it, but...not enough.

The bass is not made right. I stand by my statement, and the facts (when you think about it) support that assertion.