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NBD: Ibanez SR300DX, 2002, in Sangria

hooky_marr

Supporting Member
Jul 26, 2005
847
1,308
Chicago, Illinois
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My first SR bass! Manufactured in February 2002, so next year it’ll be old enough to rent a car.

It’s in Sangria, a magenta-ish purple metallic finish.

First impression: A little heavier than I expected, but not a boat anchor. It doesn’t have the slimmer oval carve of the higher-end models. Color is gorgeous. Needs a deep clean!

Catalog specs:

SR300DX
  • SR4 neck (3-piece maple)
  • agathis body
  • medium frets
  • die-cast 4 bridge
  • DXP neck pu
  • DXJ bridge pu
  • Phat EQ
  • Available in Black, Jewel Blue, Sangria
  • available left handed in Black
 
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Sweet looking bass, enjoy it!

There was a used SR300[something] of a similar vintage at the Long & McQuade in my hometown a year or so ago. I was so close to buying it. It played so nicely, I didn't want to put it down. Really didn't need it though so I managed to leave the store without it. Ah well...
 
Sweet looking bass, enjoy it!

There was a used SR300[something] of a similar vintage at the Long & McQuade in my hometown a year or so ago. I was so close to buying it. It played so nicely, I didn't want to put it down. Really didn't need it though so I managed to leave the store without it. Ah well...
Ah good old L&M! I only visited the one in Calgary which was mostly new stuff. Now that I’m in Chicago the local Guitar Centers have the most random used stuff!

SR300’s are fun to play. Hopefully the neck on yours is more stable than the last one I had. It had a beautiful orange metallic finish but the neck needed tweaking constantly.
If yours had the bigger soapbars I think those were made in Indonesia? So far I’ve had good luck with late-period Korean Ibbys, knock on wood.

Having disassembled it for cleaning / customizing the frets have seen better days, but I’m not seeing any issues otherwise. The center maple laminate has some nice birdseye figuring, too.

I was surprised to see individual grounding wires from the pickup cavities - there’s apparently graphite paint under there. I’d still copper foil the cavities normally but it’s a bit tight, so I ordered some MG nickel shielding paint.

The old cast zinc bridge seemed to be bending up under the string tension, right where the thick area at back meets the thinner front plate under the saddles. Replacing that with an aluminum Hipshot Style A which should also cut the weight a bit.
 
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Update 1: After a lot of measuring, got the new Hipshot bridge drilled & installed. Realized that the dot inlays on the fretboard are NOT perfectly centered, so they’re useless for finding a centerline.

Used a simpler method of bringing the saddles to the 3/4 mark on the bridge, drawing “extension lines” down from the sides of the neck, measuring 34” from the nut and crossing the extension lines with a perpendicular line, measuring that to find the center point, then placing the bridge. I aligned the bridge’s center mounting hole on the intersection, then marked the other two mounting screw holes.

To be extra sure, I dug out our Ryobi vacuum stick-on laser level, stuck it to the HVAC duct (low ceiling basement!) and pointed it downward. Worked fairly well!

Bridge in place:

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I used a couple of drops of iFixit adhesive remover to get the last bits of old pickup foam residue out of the pickup cavities. I noticed that both cavities actually had what looked like thin plastic plates stuck to the bottom - maybe this was the old “shielding?”

Detached the grounding cables and began coating the cavities with the MG Supershield nickel paint. I painted on two coats, with recommended drying time between. Should be cured by tomorrow afternoon.

That said: REALLY read the instructions. I thought the solvent VOCs would be fine indoors for the small amount I was applying (plus running a room-size air purifier on my desk next to the work area), but this stuff is capital-S STRONG.

Absolutely find a well-ventilated outdoor space to use while applying it and ideally to let it cure overnight.

Also: Wear proper PPE (a rated respirator, safety glasses, and solvent resistant gloves); apply a little at a time to avoid drips; and be sure to tape around the edges of the cavities to avoid potential damage to the finish.

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I was originally going to try this paint in the electronics cavity too, but after this, I’m going back to copper foil.
 
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