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Neck bow woes

S

SicGroove

Feb 23, 2012
10
0
#1
Hey guys,

Can I just start by saying that this thread contains nothing designed by Leo, made in USA or built of exotic woods. Also, sorry for the massive post.

I've got a Tokai Thunderbird copy which was my first bass and I love it to bits as it just feels so comfortable and "right" for me, but it has a few issues. Biggest of all is some neck bow when strung to full tension.

This wouldnt be an issue normally, quick tweak of the truss rod and job done, however the truss rod does not want to adjust. At all.

So I resigned myself to weedy thin strings and low tension for a while until the untidy fretwork and less than stellar fretboard finishing started to bug me, then I got thinking.

I could either get the bass refretted with huge frets and see if the tech/luthier could leave them taller in the middle to help with the bow.

Or I could try and repair the bass properly.

This isn't a decision I have taken lightly. I know the risks and that damn rosewood is getting pulled off.

I'm pretty confident that I can remove the board, repair/replace the truss rod and reglue the board but theres also a couple of options I'd like some feedback on.

Keep the old board or replace? I love the look of ebony, especially with no fret markers on the face of the board but then I'd have to trim a pre-slotted board and install side dots.

Fret material. I like to use stainless strings, would stainless frets help with wear?

And finally, would you/should I install carbon fibre rods into the neck to help keep it straight? And if so should I go full length, just joint area to stop ski-jump or another layout?

Cheers in advance for any advice and insight.
 
#2
Try removing the trussrod nut and putting a washer in behind it. It will gain you more rod adjustment. You can even put two in if needed.

You say rod won't adjust, so you can't loosen ? Penetrating oil, better yet, put a drip of kerosene on the tip of a screwdriver and touch it to the threads and leave it overnight. Don't get any on the wood.
 
#4
It wont turn either way and theres no room to take the nut off through the access hole. Its a truss rod that uses an allen key so I cant even see the end of the threads.

Im thinking either theres glue on the threads or the thread was damaged during assembly and the damaged section is now inside the nut and stopping it from moving.

Cheers anyway guys, thats a great tip to keep in mind for future reference.
 
#5
You could try to drill a small hole in the center of the nut to get some WD40 or CRC 5-56. Preferably the hole should be big enough for the tube on the can to fit inside.

Spray a tiny bit into the hole, wait a few hours, repeat.

Just remember that the oil will take quite a long time to penetrate properly, so give it time. And don't spray too much. You only want a tint amount in the hole you drilled.


If this is successful remember to apply some grease to the threads of the nut before you but it all together again.
 
#7
Im not sure which design truss rod has been used, it has an allen key fitting at the headstock end and I'm fairly confident that its a one way truss rod. I just dont know wether the headstock end is a nut that should come off or if it turns a threaded bar which pulls against the anchor.

The adjustment access hole has a lip which would stop the rod coming out but I'm incredibly wary of removing material in this area due to the angled, heavy headstock with no volute or reinforcment. Maybe I'm just paranoid.

I'm leaving for work soon but when I get home ill whip off the (string) nut and see if i can work some lubricant in there. Wouldn't WD-40 or penetrating oil damage the wood though?
 
#8
Yes, you can't just go spraying it around. You know, kerosene or diesel are better at penetrating and breaking rust than just about any thing else. Just put a drop of whatever you use on the tip of a screwdriver, etc. to control how much and where it is applied.
 

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